The area provides beautiful views of the Animas River and La Plata Mountains. The approach crosses private land, so please stay on a well established trail, which Access Fund helped to negotiate with land owners. The actual climbing is located in the San Juan National Forest.
Getting ThereTo find the area drive north on County Road 250 for 2 miles north of Florida Road (15th street at Main Ave). Find a small and well marked parking area across from the Fraser Ranch. From here it is a steep uphill to the cliffs (it brings you to the Watch Crystal). The trail is well established, including a nice bridge crossing a small creek. The first section of the trail crosses a private land, so please be respectful of that privilege.
- Apple Cider 5.8 - trad, 2 pitches. You can start on a large right facing flake (easier) or go straight up slightly to the left of the flake (little more difficult). Move up and past the roof, again you can go either on right to gain another crack, or on the left. I have tried both variations, and find it about equally challenging. Follow this to a chimney, which leads to a ledge on the left and a bolted anchor. The trick is to face right in the chimney, a couple of awkward moves will get you to a nice hand holds and a mantle move to the ledge. There is a 2nd pitch, which I have not done, with fixed anchors at the top. Protection: trad rack with up #4 camalot.
- Texas Sucks 5.9+ - trad, one pitch, handcrack, located on the left side of the Apple Cider area, and just to the right of a right facing corner. Climb the hand crack up to the right facing corner, near its top traverse right around a prow and down climb a short crack to a nice ledge with anchors.
- Travels with Charlie 5.7 - trad, 2 pitches. Same start as the climb Easy to Remember, between Texas Sucks (to the right of it) and left of Apple Cider. Go up a right angling ramp past a ledge to a belay behind a large boulder. Pitch 2 traverse to the left on a sloping ledge and moves up and around the corner.
- Easy to Rememer 5.10a - trad, one pitch. The same start as Travels with Charlie. Climb up the stemming dihedrals. Small gear to protect finger sized crack.
- Green Puke 5.9 - trad, one pitch. Starts on the right side of the Apple Cider. Start with a low overhang, gain a crack system and follow it to a roof, move left and continue up racks to the top of the wall.
- Birthday Crack 5.9 - trad, this is a 2nd pitch to Texas Sucks or Easy to Remember. Hand crack to fingers to a large ledge at the top.
- Punta Magna 5.11 PG13 - trad, starts just to the right f the large flake for Apple Cider. Climb up a large left facing dihedral.
The boxelder bug - there were huge aggregations of these bugs sunning on the rock.
This made climbing slightly challenging since I was afraid to smash those creatures.
These insects feed almost exclusively on the seeds of Acer species. They are not known
to cause significant damage and are not considered to be agricultural pests.
They may form large aggregations while sunning themselves in areas near their host plant.
However, their congregation habits and excreta can annoy people. This is especially a
problem during the cooler months, when they sometimes invade houses seeking warmth
and place to overwinter. They remain inactive inside the walls while the weather is cool.