OverviewThis page was transferred to me by Alan Ellis. Thank you Alan for a wonderful contribution. I will try to keep it up to date as best as I can.
In the northwest San Juans resides a lonely tower. Chimney Rock (also sometimes called Chimney Peak) sits among great peaks and formations such as Courthouse Mountain, Precipice Peak, and the spires of Cimarron Ridge. While driving up through the Cimarron Valley, Chimney Rock greets and entices the climber, yet warns of it’s possibilities.
At 11,781 feet, this bastion of stone captures everyone’s immediate attention, including those of movie producers. In True Grit, Chimney Rock served as a backdrop during Rooster Cogburn’s (Wayne) unforgettable horse-riding, double-rifled-slinging match with reins in his teeth against three outlaws. No doubt the imagination of the ambitious technical climber is captured as well, yet very few take on the challenge. The towering Chimney Rock spire was first climbed in 1934 by Melvin Griffiths and Robert Ormes. (This paragraph courtesy of Aaron Johnson)
The standard and only established route is rated 5.6 and follows the South Face Crack. Do not be fooled by the very moderate rating. Chimney Rock has dangers that make this peak a solid grade III climb. These dangers include extreme rock fall, poor rock quality, and long unprotectable pitches (run-outs). And....all of these factors exist at the same time on almost every pitch. In addition, the approach includes a steep bushwhack through interminable downfall and loose, unprotectable class 4 and 5 which much be negotiated just to reach the base of the tower. Chimney Rock is climbable, but take heart and take care. It is not for the timid or the inexperienced. But for the ones who are looking for a true adventure climbing challenge, then Chimney Rock offers a great opportunity to test your mettle. Good luck in your endeavor.
Climbing HistoryChimney Rock and Lizard Head have commonly been held to be the most difficult peaks on Colorado to climb. There are differing opinions, however, as to which is the more difficult (I believe Lizard Head is more difficult). Chimney Rock was first climbed on September 15, 1934 by Melvin Griffiths and Robert Ormes. The report on the first ascent in the February 1935 Trail and Timberline concluded that Chimney Rock was a "much more difficult climb than Lizard Head" but is a safer climb because it is "composed of well cemented conglomerate". The initial report probably exaggerated the difficulty of Chimney Rock. Ormes, who also made an early ascent of Lizard Head, feels that Chimney Rock rock "couldn't be said, even in those days, to be difficult". Ormes and Griffith climbed the pinnacle "via a chimney and crack which splits the south face of the rock".
How To Get There
Chimney Rock as seen from surrounding Peaks
There are a lot of primitive camping opportunities along the West Fork of Cimarron Creek and also right at the parking lot for Chimney Rock. Camping sites here are free, and are very popular with locals. Expect a lot of hunters in the fall.
Here is a link to developed campground if you wish to be further away and pay some fees :)