Petit Grepon : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

The South Face of Petit Grepon, the spire just left of center.

Photo by jwclimbs

Petit Grepon is an amazing Eiffel Tower shaped pinnacle and the most spectacular of the Cathedral Spires of Rocky Mountain National Park. Nestled between two other great spires, The Sabre on the east and the Shark's Tooth (12,630') on the west, the 800' spire is a draw for climbers around the world. It is located in the eastern section of the park about 3 miles west of Longs Peak and just northeast of Taylor Peak (13,153') on the continental divide. The pinnicle shape, small 10' x 30' summit, and designation of the moderate South Face (III, 5.8, 7-8 pitches) as one of the "50 Classic Climbs of North America" make this an extremely popular climbing objective. The South Face route (aka East Face route) has been called "perhaps the most popular alpine climb in the country" by Charles Vernon and "one of the most popular, if not the most popular route in RMNP" by Josh. The route makes a grand tour of the South Face and crosses over to the East Face, finishing with great exposure. When the South Face is overrun (on most fair weather weekends), climbers will find the Southwest Corner (III, 5.9) to be a challenging and attractive alternative. A 5.10c (8s) 3-pitch start variation of the Southwest Corner is also available. The Pen Knife (II, 5.6) is on the north side, and while easier, is still vertical and extremely exposed making it a worthy objective.

The first ascent of the South Face occurred in 1961 and was by William Buckingham and Art Davidson. The first ascent of the Southwest Corner was by Bob Culp and B. Beal in 1970.

A less demanding climbing alternative to Petit Grepon is the Shark's Tooth, a nearby spire to the northwest whose summit offers excellent views of Petit Grepon. Sharkstooth includes several climbs such as the South Prow (III 5.7-8), Northeast Ridge (III 5.6) and the East Gully (II 5.4).

On the hike to Petit Grepon and Sharkstooth, you will pass three lakes: The Loch, Glass Lake and Sky Pond . These lakes are often filled with large trout and The Loch provides great views during sunrise.

Getting There

FROM GLACIER GORGE JUNCTION TRAILHEAD:

Park at the Glacier Gorge Junction trailhead in Rocky Mountain National Park and hike past Loch Vale to Sky Pond (about 4 miles). The normal approach leaves the trail to the right of Sky Pond and heads toward the spires above a talus field. This is a very scenic approach and time should be taken to enjoy. The trail is very well traveled with distance/direction signs along the way. The total distance to the climb is about 4.6 miles.

FROM ESTES PARK TO GLACIER GORGE JUNCTION:

From Estes Park, drive into the park on US-36 past Beaver Point (junction with CO SR-66) and the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center turning left on to Bear Lake Road just past Eagle Cliff Mountain to your left. At the end of Bear Lake Road, there is a ranger station, rest rooms, Bear Lake, and the Glacier Gorge Junction trailhead.

Red Tape

ENTRANCE FEE (MANDATORY):

Petit Grepon is in Rocky Mountain National Park and visitors are required to pay an entrance fee to enter the park. As of 2002, this fee was $10 per person or $20 per car, which ever is less, for 7 days and $5 per bicycle or motor cycle per person (up to $15). Various passes such as the National Parks Pass will also get you into this park. Check the NPS Rocky Mountain National Park entrance fee page for the latest information.

BIVY SITE FEES (OPTIONAL):

Camping in the Sky Pond drainage is limited to technical climbers and subject to bivy restrictions. These restrictions include: no tents, no fires, only between dusk and sunrise. Sleeping bags and bivy sacks can be placed only on rock or snow. The number of spots is limited and there is a $15 per site fee that must be paid at the Estes Park NPS ranger station center. See the Camping section below for additional details.

When To Climb

Petit can be climbed most years April through the first snow fall of the year. The approach may have lots of snow but most of the routes are south facing and very steep thus allowing them to dry very quickly. The climb should be started early to avoid the afternoon thunderstorms.

Camping

BIVY SITES:

All sites in the Sky Pond area below the climb are bivy only sites. This means that no tents or artificial structures can be put up. The sites are very limited and must be paid for in person at the ranger station at the Estes Park main entrance. The sites are currently around $15 which is in addition to your entry fee into the park. A bivy cave is also available. Also be sure to keep your food secure as mice and other rodents have been known to eat their way through to your food. Please read the other regulations regarding bivies and abide by the rules.

Descent

There are new rappel stations on the east side of the peak. When on the summit walk to the northeast end and you'll find two new bolts. Using two 60M ropes you can make a rap straight down to another set of new bolts. From there you make another full rap to some older slings. Now if you look south on the grassy ledge below, you will see more slings. Get to those and follow the sling sets down the south face of the peak to the base of the climb. Remember, this only works with two 60M or longer ropes.

Conditions Information

Weather Underground: Niwot Ridge / Corona Pass (Estes Park)

1000 Highway 36
Estes Park, CO 80517-8397

Visitor Information: 970-586-1206

Backcountry: 970-586-1242

Campground Reservations: 800-365-2267

Fax: 970-586-1256

Email: ROMO_Information@nps.gov

Web: http://www.nps.gov/romo/pphtml/contacts.html

External Links

National Park Service, RMNP page
ClimbingBoulder.com
Petit Grepon main page. They have two routes up as of 23 Mar 2002: South Face and SW Corner.
Meeting new people on the South Face

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]

Viewing: 1-1 of 1

Tom Fralich

Rappel Description

Hasn't voted

There are now bolted rap stations all the way down for parties with two 60m ropes. Start from the bolts on the summit, then down to another set of bolts. From there, rap straight to the grassy ledge...no need to stop at the convoluted sling anchor. From the grassy ledge, walk south to find another set of bolts atop a chimney. Rap from there to some slings/rope around a big boulder, but find some bolts directly below. From there, a long rap to another bolted station. There's some webbing on a big block to rappeller's right, but skip these and go 10-15m further to two bolts on a slab. Then from there to the ground.

Posted Jul 14, 2007 9:25 pm

Viewing: 1-1 of 1

Images

$From Powell\'s North Face$

[ View Gallery - 22 More Images ]