Overview
This is a great Flatiron route and one of Roach's
classics. The East Ridge is narrow and exposed. There is a pendulum fall potential for both leader and follower with sparse places for protection. That said, it is mostly 4th class with one steeper section on the upper ridge. This description will be brief as the route is short and straight forward.
Have fun!
![Spy]()
Not much protection but not too hard.Getting There
Follow the description on the
main page.
Route Description
![The Spy]()
The start.
Start roughly where the photo shows. From below, the climbing looks grungy and unpleasant. Don't worry too much, after a pitch of needles and trees the climbing improves greatly. Head up through the trees trending right. As you get higher, you will see a short wall blocking passage to the upper ridge. This obstacle can be passed on the left (5.2ish) or the right (5.4ish) and a belay can be set up on the ridge near a tree or in the gully to the left.
![The Spy]()
The wall blocking passage to the upper ridge can be seen behind a tree where the Spy breaks off from the lower slabs.
From here simply take a deep breath and tiptoe up the ridge. The crux of the route is a smooth bulge near the crest.
![The Spy]()
The bulge is the crux of the route.
From the crest it is much easier and you simply follow the top over to the true summit.
![Spy]()
Sitting on top.
Follow the descent described on the
main page.
![Spy]()
Jumping off.Essential Gear
Light rack if bringing a rope.
External Links
Cool
Flatirons Webcam
Page Type:
Lat/Lon:
Route Type:
Season:
Not much protection but not too hard.
The start.
The wall blocking passage to the upper ridge can be seen behind a tree where the Spy breaks off from the lower slabs.
The bulge is the crux of the route.
Sitting on top.
Jumping off.