Page Type:
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Route |
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Route Type:
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Technical rock climb |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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5.10c/d |
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LOCATION
The EBGB's formation is a huge square cut block sitting on top of a formation in front of the south end of the west face of echo rock. It is plainly visible from the parking lot. The route ascends the front of this block. A class 4 scramble up ledges brings one to the south east corner of the block, where the route begins.
HISTORY
EBGB's is a traditional climb protected with bolts. This means that the route was originally climbed using "trad" techniques. The bolts were placed by a climber on lead, drilling from available stances. This style of first ascent explains why the bolts are not so close together, and when you lead this pitch you will get to relive Dave Houser's run to the top, unable to stop and drill.
Of course the 1/4" bolts with home made aluminum hangers which were placed in 1977 have been changed to modern 3/8" hardware.
Jan McCollum gave me this account of the day, in 1977, when he and his buddies felt audacious enough to have a go at this route:
"It was a beautiful sunny day, warm but not hot. Dave Houser put in the first 2 bolts, I put in the next 2 and Dave put in the last. Mike Waugh and Nick Badyrka also climbed it that day. It was grainy and the holds were about 1/4 the size they are now (in the middle section) and the top was run out and scary and there are no more bolts because Dave couldn't stop and put any in. A good time was had by all. All of the original ascentionists hand traversed out and did the mantle to start."
The name of this route is a pun on having "The Heebie Geebies" and climbing with EB's on your feet (it is not a reference to the NYC punk rock club CBGB's, as some have said.)
As of May, 2005, a new page in the history of EBGB's has been written, with the free solo ascent by LA local Michael Reardon.
BETA
Getting onto the block is difficult. Most climbers do a mantle to the left of the first bolt. Over the years this move has become harder, as there were some holdlike features on the shelf to pull in with. It's smooth as glass now. The start can also be done as a tricky face move, using a high step and an undercling, directly in front of the first bolt. After doing which ever start you choose, move around left onto the front of the block and climb past 4 more bolts to the top. There is an anchor on the summit and a rap station on the south side.
A couple of 4" cams make a nice belay anchor under the block at the start. Other than that all you will need is 5 quick draws.
You can add to your followers protection at the start by pulling your rope through the gear and dropping it back down free and clear.
You can rap to the ground from the anchor on the south face.
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