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Alta Via Resiana, 23-26 Oct
2008 Alta Via Resiana, 23-26 Oct 2008  by saman

During the past few(?) years I'd made several trips to the Julian Alps, but somehow I've always felt that I must return later. I've seen the Canin massif from the Montasio, later from the Mangart. This autumn finally I managed to organize a trip to this mountain itself. I was accompanied by four of my friends: Anikó, Peti, Félix and Mop

Euro Sampler Euro Sampler  by rpc

So there we were – sitting around the kitchen table shaking our heads in a merry disbelief. Ahead of us lay a stretch of free time we’ve never faced before: 8 weeks! It was finally here. We had spent the last few months prior trying to decide how exactly to burn it – use it for going back to some familiar places around the western United States and trying to dispatch some of our bigger goals or try something different? Though initially leaning toward the former, in the end (and with the suggestion of our friends) we went for the latter. Yes Sir! A two-month circuit of stamp-collecting conventions it was going to be!!

Our climbing trip started with a whole shitload of driving (two shitloads in fact!) and little climbing. Drove down to California only to fail. Drove back up to Portland. Picked up our dog Blondie and spent the next three days driving the 3000 miles to the east coast where Blondie would spend the summer with my parents. A week into our trip and the only thing we really succeeded on was climbing my parents’ roof (to fix a leaky tile) – a project that I initially felt would go at 5.7 R (slab) but the roof material proved too slippery and the challenge was eventually solved A0-style ala FA of Lost Arrow Spire. With this boost in our climbing confidence (not to mention a sealed leak) we set off for Europe via Newark, Amsterdam, and eventually Venice where we spent 3 days sightseeing while being squeezed to death by the crowds. Finally we picked up our tiny rental car and my brief Euro-driving career began and ended in the rental parking lot where I stole on take off and endured much verbal and sign language abuse from an irate Italian driver. From here on, Shirley did all the driving in Europe with her superior manual transmission skills. Later that day we were in Castelrotto planning our first day of Dolomite climbing.

Cneifion Expedition Cneifion Expedition  by igneouscarl

After a summer of planning, my Dad and I finally managed to find a free weekend to spend climbing in North Wales. Both of us mountain enthusiasts, we were keen to tackle a long route which would put us high out of the valley and onto a summit. Having had quite a prolific year of climbing and walking in Snowdonia, I was keen to do a novel route that would be isolated from the majority of weekend warriors and outside of my familiar experiences of the national park.

A quick study of ‘Scrambles & Easy Climbs in Snowdonia’ cross referenced with the excellent ‘Rock Climbing in Snowdonia’ by the late Paul Williams quickly drew our attention to the alpine style climbs leading into and over Cym Cneifion (the Nameless Valley), with over 240m of easy climbing and scrambling that would put us onto the Gribin ridge, a grade one scramble that lead onto the summit plateau of Glyder Fawr (999m).

Elbrus 2007 Elbrus 2007  by nab1ug

Having just landed in a town called Mineralnye Vody onboard a Tupolov 154 after a 2 hour flight from Moscow, the three of us are pretty happy. we are happy because the plane didn't leak too much AVGAS before taking off, the wings didn't fall off, and the already wasted russian co-passengers pretty much knocked themselves out on vodka and schnapps about halfway through the flight.

The Grand Teton The Grand Teton  by dfrancom

I wanted to climb the Grand Teton this year not only because this Mountain is so incredibly attractive and majestic, but because my girlfriend Sunnie would be climbing it for her first time. We made the plan to climb the Grand in a single day, car to car. We left Logan around 9:00 P.M. on Friday August 8th.Unfortunataley the weather was terrible on our drive to Jackson. I watched the weather report and it said the storm would clear out by the next day. We hoped the weather report would be true, but things looked bad! Lighting was everywhere and increased as we drove toward Jackson. Just when we thought we would be rained out, things looked better as we arrived in Jackson. In fact, by the time we drove through town there was no rain at all. Arriving at the Lupine Meadows parking lot at about 1:00 A.M. on the morning of the 9th we could see stars everywhere above our heads. We could not believe our eyes after all the rain we had driven through. Talk about good timing, it was FANTASTIC!Sunnie writes,Daniel and I started hiking at 2:00 a.m. (right on schedule).

Clinging to the Bullion
Divide Clinging to the Bullion Divide  by Brad Snider

Nearing the end of our three week trip out west, my wife and I had enjoyed near perfect weather from Montana to Wyoming. But now, as I decided to tackle my first climb in the Wasatch, a cold front was pushing in–promising steady 20-30 mile per hour winds and a chance of snow ahead of the main storm. It wasn’t the best of timing, but it would have to do. We were surrounded by some magnificent mountains, and I knew I would regret it if I did not at least make an attempt at some of them before our vacation drew to a close. The most obvious choice of route for me was the Bullion Divide, which includes seven mountains and some fun class 3 scrambling.

Moffett Mount Moffett  by Bombchaser

June 19th, 2008, I landed in Adak, Alaska. The town of Adak is located on Adak Island approximately 1400 miles south of Anchorage, Alaska. I’m an explosives technician and I came here to begin a three month contract searching for left over military explosive ordnance. On Adak Island the highest point is Mount Moffett at 3824 feet above sea level. When I arrived in Adak the entire mountain was covered in tens of feet of snow. When I left Oregon I did not bring any of my mountaineering equipment. If I had brought the gear I could have had a number of possible routes up the mountain to choose from. Sometime around mid-July I decided to have my mountaineering gear mailed to me. The mail moves very slow here at times. For the first few weeks I was on the island I experienced a number of storms. Most of these storms were fairly cold and on occasion the top of Moffett would receive another light coating of snow on the exposed rocks. When July rolled in the storms were milder. After a series of mild storms the vast majority of snow had melted. There was still considerable snow in the ravines and along some of the ridge crests. I began studying the mountain and various topographical maps. I soon found on the west side of the mountain a long exposed ridgeline to attempt an ascent. The ridge comes in from a more remote portion of the island. I plotted a route along this ridge. I planned to descend using the much easier southeast ridgeline. This is the route that past hikers and climbers have used. I’m not sure how much the southwest ridge has been used. I wanted to do a sea to summit climb, and that’s why I picked the southwest route. My work schedule on Adak Island was eleven hours a day, and six days a week. So I would have to hope for a good weather day on my one day a week off.

Aura - A Brocken Spectre on
the Loose Aura - A Brocken Spectre on the Loose  by Gangolf Haub

Common Sense dictates that you take a slow approach during your first outing after having spent half a year behind the computer screen. However, with me common sense is a poor dictator, which can be observed every year in September as we (girlfriend Judith and I) try to recover from our first vacation day after having returned from one of our epic first day enterprises.

However, there are more serious dictators than common sense, weather being one of the most serious ones. In September 2008 a Sunday of on-and-off rain forced us to stay in the valley – Upper Vinschgau or Val Venosta Alta. We managed 15km and 800m of altitude and got drenched several times. So the epic was spared for the second day – or was it? Upon our arrival we had lunched at the shore of Reschensee / Lago di Resia and while doing so had observed a long but easy looking ridge on the opposite side of it: it connects Piz Lad in the north with Äußerer Nockenkopf / Dosso di Fuori in the south and has two more summits in between: Piz Nair and Jochgrubenkopf / Piz Russenna. And that’s where we decided to spend day two this year.

Earl Peak and Iron Peak Earl Peak and Iron Peak  by EastKing

With the calls of iffy weather on the western side I had a strong desire to head east to the Teanaway Region. Jason and Fran were head off to Malcolm Mountain so I luckily talked them into dropping me off a little up the road so that I could do Iron Peak. So how did Earl Peak involved here. Well after looking at the map I felt this strange confidence to do both. I knew I was going to have to be quick and not mess around on any summit, because both of these mountains are larger and tougher than Malcolm Mountain.

My experience on the
Matterhorn My experience on the Matterhorn  by mvs

Whew. Now for the somewhat intimidating final climb. After the fixed ropes we felt "naked" on this high roof of the world. We kicked steps in the snow carefully and sometimes found a metal bar to wrap the rope around. We passed a statue of Saint Benedict (?) right below the summit, and tiredly (for me anyway) climbed to the high level ridge that marks the Swiss summit. Wow. It had been a big climb. Normally we shake hands heartily. This time Theron gave me a big ol' hug. "Congratulations man!"

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