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Glave
Mountain/Rock

Glave

 
Glave

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: DURMITOR, Montenegro, Europe

Object Title: Glave

Elevation: 7615 ft / 2321 m

 

Page By: vvujisic

Created/Edited: May 25, 2012 / Jun 11, 2012

Object ID: 791674

Hits: 1761 

Page Score: 79.78%  - 11 Votes 

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Overview

 
Glave climbing route
 

Unlike the better known peaks of Durmitor frequently visited by hikers, the peaks called Glave have long remained in the shadows, rarely visited. To climb to the top of Glave usually opt mountaineers who are very familiar with Durmitor and who have previously climbed his most famous and tallest peaks.

Name of Glave refers to the long mountain beam, which extends from Velika Rbatina peak toward the north and in the arc form, protruding towards the Ališnica Valley, extending to above Crepulja meadow above which ends be cut. North side of Glave is rocky, with the only passage in the saddle at 2180 m, while the south side is mostly lush pasture, and only found at the bottom of the valleys and plates. The highest part of the massive of Glave is called the Velika Glava (2321 m, Great Head), medium Mala Glava (2187 m, Small Head) and the lowest Žuta Greda (2118 m, Yellow Beam) which descends to Crepulj Poljana plateau.

Compared with the nearby rounded peak Obla Glava (2303 m), which is accessible from all sides just to climbers, Glave peaks are walk-in visitors, and even suitable for all-day care of them. This applies to small cirque Do pod Glavama (Kobilji do) between Velika Rbatina, Velika Glava and Obla Glava.

 
Glave massif
 

It is important to say that the mountain climbing tour to the peaks of Glave is an interesting and attractive adventure, which boasts spectacular views and panoramas that stretch in all directions. Particularly impressive is the observation of the northwest of vertical rocky cliffs of Velika Rbatina, with whose peak on the eastern side are connected three peak of Glave in the arc form. It provides the opportunity to enrich the adventure of climbing Glave the three peaks with climbing also the nearby Velika Rbatina.

The most appropriate approach to the peaks of Glave is from the place called Korita, limestone plateau, which touches the foot of Obla Glava, at an altitude of 1900 m.

From the summits of Glave you can see on the north Crvena Greda peak and Crepulja plateu, Ljubišnja mountain and Tara canyon. On the south is visible Obla Glava and Velika Rbatina head and large, while from the highest peak of Glave massive, Velika Glava, you can see also Bezimeni Vrh. Finally, in the western direction you can notice Planinica peak which stands above the beautiful green Ališnica Valley.

Getting There

 
Žuta Greda
 

Gateway to Durmitor National Park and Glave (2321 m) massif is Zabljak (1456 m) town. Information how to get there:

By Plane
~To Beograd (Belgrade, Serbia&Montenegro capital) airport. Than with plane to Podgorica, capital of Montenegro, or with bus or car to Zabljak town.
~To Podgorica airport. Than with bus or car to Zabljak town.

Information about flights find on the sites of JAT Airways, a former Yugoslav airlines, or on Montenegro Airlines.

By Bus
~Beograd (Belgrade)-Zabljak
~Podgorica-Zabljak
~Niksic-Zabljak
~Pljevlja-Zabljak

Buses go to Zabljak from Beograd (Belgrade) twice a day and from Podgorica, Niksic, Pljevlja and Mojkovac several times per day.

By Car
~Beograd (Belgrade)-Zlatibor-Nova Varos-Prijepolje-Pljevlja-Zabljak
~Niksic - Savnik (47km) - Zabljak (37km): 84km; Niksic to Zabljak approach from south.
~Niksic - Savnik (35km) - Zabljak (37km): 72km;
~Podgorica - Niksic (55 km)-Savnik (47 km)-Zabljak (37 km): 139 km; Add this length if you are going to Zabljak from Podgorica via Niksic. Road to Niksic from Podgorica is good.
~Podgorica - Kolasin (71km) - Mojkovac (21km) - Zabljak (67km): 159km; road is good all the way to Zabljak. Behind Podgorica (56m) you go inside Moraca River canyon (one of spectacular Montenegrin canyons). It is up to 1000m deep and has wild sides. That's spectacular drive. After that, from "Djurdjevica Tara" bridge to Zabljak - 23 km.

Red Tape

 
Glave surroundings
Glave surroundings

No fees or extra fees for entering the National Park.
No permits needed either.
Usual rules of behaviour for NP's do apply.

Camping

 
Žuta Greda from Crepulj Poljana meadow
Žuta Greda from Crepulj Poljana meadow

The nearest place to Glave (2321 m) for camping is Stari Katun (Old Hut), but this shepherd's hut is without service and beds. You can sleep inside in your bivouacs. Also, near place for camping are shepherd's houses on Crapulj Poljana (1716 m), belowe N side of Žuta Greda peak.

You can climb Glave peak also from Lokvice Hut (1693 m) in Lokvice Valley. Also, from Skrka Hut (1723 m) in Skrka Valley you can climb Glave peak via Planinica (2330 m) summit and Alisnica Valley.

Generally, in Durmitor, major huts are in good condition, but with no service. Still, open to the general public. Just in mountain Skrka Hut in Skrka Valley and Susica Hut in Susica Canyon you can buy the food, but not cooking meal. There you can sleep on beds with blankets. In other huts, hikers/climbers are supposed to bring all the jummy stuff with them.

On Durmitor exist camps in Ivan Do and Razvrsje (near Savin Kuk), and few mountain huts and bivouacs:
~Hut with few small shepherd's houses in Lokvice valley
~Hut in Skrka Lakes valley (you can sleep and buy the food)
~Bivouac in Velika Kalica valley
~Hut "Mushova koliba" (Stari Katun) on the road from Zabljak to Obla Glava (2303 m) peak, near Ledena Pechina (Ice Cave) - empty simply hut from wood, without service, simple conditions...

Weather Info

The best weather forecast on Internet for Durmitor (Zabljak town) is VREME YUBC NET site. You can see 5 days forecast for Durmitor area, 4-times-daily forecast.

Maps

 
rbatina from bezimeni vrh
Glave-Velika Rbatina ridge

Exist three maps of Durmitor:

1. Map of Durmitor Massif & Tara Canyon - 1:25000. Author: Branislav Cerovic. You can buy it in Zabljak town in almost every store. Price: 5-6 euro.

2. Map of Durmitor National Park & Tara Canyon - 1:25000. Author: Branislav Cerovic. You can buy it in Beograd (Belgrade, Serbia) in Geokarta Co, Belgrade. Price: 2 euro. This map is better than first one and include many informations and facts about routes, peaks, lakes, glacial cirques, valleys, canyons,...

3. Durmitor Mountain Guide & Map. Short mountain guide with some basic informations and facts. Author of map: Pavle S. Bandovic. Editor: "Summit" Travel Agency, Zabljak, 2005. Price of Guide&Map: 7 euro.

Images

rbatina from bezimeni vrhŽuta Greda from Crepulj Poljana meadowŽuta GredaGlave climbing routeGlave massifGlave massifGlave surroundings