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Kepa/Mittagskogel
Mountain/Rock

Kepa/Mittagskogel

 
Kepa/Mittagskogel

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Karavanke/Karawanken, Austria/Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.50776°N / 13.95234°E

Object Title: Kepa/Mittagskogel

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 7030 ft / 2143 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Jul 15, 2004 / Sep 14, 2014

Object ID: 152817

Hits: 12565 

Page Score: 83.1%  - 16 Votes 

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Overview

Mittagskogel northface
Herb - Kepa / Mittagskofel from the north

What's New Here?

September 8th, 2014: Minor changes, Gubno/Huehnerkogel info added.
> October 8th, 2004: The route over NE ridge mentioned.
> July 15th, 2004: Initial setup of the page.

Slovenian Characters

When reading Slovenian words on maps or in books, you will find special characters for ch, sh, and zh. They are written with c, s and z with a caron - little v above them.

Overview

After Stol/Hochstuhl and Vrtača/Wertatscha, Kepa/Mittagskogel is the third highest mountain in Karavanke range. Due to its beauty it is a true landmark of Kaernten (Austria), from where it is seen like a regular rocky pyramid with a bit cut off peak, so when having clouds around summit one could easily think of looking at volcano. Of course it is built of limestone, as other summits of Karavanke. It is quite different from the South, from Slovenian side. Hiding behind forehills the summit can be seen only from a distance, from the plane around Bled, and from one spot in the Upper Sava valley, close to Belca village. Of course, if we climb a bit higher, say in Julian Alps, the summit is seen as a beautiful high mountain.

The broader area has the following summits: NW of the main summit is the 1815 m high Koroška Mala Kepa, then the main summit comes, 2143 m, NE of it is at the end of the NE summit ridge also a cross on the fore-summit. The first summit towards the SE is Dovška Mala Kepa, 2077 m, then Gubno/Huehnerkogel, 2034 m, then the ridge of Plevelniki comes. The highest summit in this one is Visoki Kurjek/Baerenkogel, 1973 m, east of it is Lepa Plevelnica, 1957 m. Towards the south-west from Gubno a side ridge goes down. It is names Kurjeki, 1888 m, 1666 m. Finally, north of Kepa, above Bertahuette, there's a nice summit of Komnica, 1739 m. It offers a fine view over the whole northern side of the main ridge.

Ascents on Kepa/Mittagskogel vary from a mid-hard hike over a harder hike with some exposed and with pegs and cables protected details to a few easy rock climbs in the north face (up to UIAA degree III). Although steep on all sides towards the North-East Kepa/Mittagskogel has a nice ravine, appropriate also for a medium hard ski tour.
Kepa from the east, from BabaKepa massif from the E, from Dovska Baba
Kepa from southFrom the South
Kepa from below KresisceFrom the West

Gubno/Huehnerkogel

Gubno/Huehnerkogel, 2034 m, is a grassy pyramid in the main SE ridge of Kepa/Mittagskogel. It is rising in the middle of the highest part of the ridge, SE of Dovška Mala Kepa and NW of the sharp Visoki Kurjek. On the NE side a high, very lonesome valley lies. Its slopes are rising just to the main ridge, so from the ridge it is easy to descend on the Austrian side. It's a peaceful corner of Karavanke range, especially nice are the screes north of Visoki Kurjek/Baerenkogel.

The prominence of Gubno/Huehnerkogel is only small. Towards the NW the nearby saddle is only some 60 m lower, towards the SE, the saddle towards Visoki Kurjek/Baerenkogel lies on some 1800 m.

The summit is easily reached, because the marked path from Mlinca valley on Kepa crosses its slopes. The path reaches to only some 10 minutes below the summit, from there, by the easy, short SW ridge we can gain the summit by a tiny, not marked path.

Because after the slopes of Gubno/Huehnerkogel the path on Kepa/Mittagskogel goes over two harder, quite exposed passages, this summit can be a substitute goal for those who for any reason don't decide to continue on Kepa/Mittagskogel. Most of the panorama is similar, but the NW and W part is being obscured by the summit massif of Kepa.

The Southern Fore-hills

In the southern forehills, although the world is rugged, overgrown with dense vegetation and mostly steep and rocky, you can still find some hiking objectives. Let's mention a few options:
  • The summit of Planica, 1508 m. From the Lower Šija saddle, 1349 m, towards the west on top. Panorama.
  • The summit of Borovje, 1476 m. From Vrše meadow, 1184 m towards the east directly up or from the Lower Šija saddle, 1349 m, towards the south-east. Panorama.
  • Kloma gorge. From 'Tromostovje', point 1065 m, east of Borovje, reachable by car, then by cart-road into Žakelj creek valley and northwards through the gorge on alpine meadows.
  • Jerca gorge. By the mountain road around the west side of Planica, then by a hunters path down into Jerca gorge. Then right (eastwards) upstream to a 10 meters high waterfall. Then back to the hunters path and a bit more down to the mouth of Sušica creek. Then upwards by Sušica (northwards) till two nice waterfalls - the lower one is 25 m high, the upper one 15 m high. Back by the same route.

Summit Panorama

Gangolf Haub - 360° summit panorama Kepa / Mittagskogel

The summit view from Kepa/Mittagskogel is magnificent: Beyond Sava valley, Julian Alps are like on a parade, further towards the West Dolomites can be seen, then Grossglockner and neighbourhood, on north Dachstein, towards north-east to Zirbitzkogel and towards south-east a big portion of green, hilly Slovenia.
On the ascent from west, just...The view on Martuljek group
On the west ascentFaaker See / Basko jezero
Looking back from atop Kepa,...Eastern views

Getting There

Kepa from the NE
Kepa from the NE, from Drau/Drava river valley
For general overview information see the Karavanke/Karawanken GROUP page.

From south (Slovenia) trailheads on Kepa/Mittagskogel start in Sava valley, in villages Belca, 691 m and Dovje, 704 m. From these villages forrest roads go into the narrow Belca valley (you can drive only a short part, then closed for public traffic ?) and from Dovje also only a short part (100 m or 200 m) up.

From north (Kaernten, Austria) we have some more choices. Villages north of Kepa/Mittagskogel can be reached by local roads on which we can get from the highway Villach - Karavanke tunnel. From these villages we can reach both mountain huts north of Kepa/Mittagskogel by foot or even by car. In July 2006 the mountain road towards Bertahuette was closed on the altitude of some 1180 m (a big enough parking place).

Maps:

On-line map in german is on: http://www.austrianmap.at/.

Kranjska Gora (community tourist map), 1:30000 (only for south, east and west approaches)

Routes Overview



Kepa from Belca valley...
Sebastjan Reven - From the West

The approach to Kepa from...
The western approach - summit slope

From the South



1. From Dovje, through Mlinca valley. 4 hours to the summit, marked, medium hard walk up and in some places exposed ferratta (for experienced).

2. From Dovje, over Kurjeke. 4 hours to the summit. Not marked, hard to find hunters trail.

3. From Belca, through Belca valley. 4 hours to the summit, marked, medium hard walk up (for experienced).

6. Over Planina Belca. We drive into Belca valley, but near the confluence of Jerca creek (comes from the east) we cross Belca creek and ascend by the lower part of Kepa SW side ridge to Planina Belca (meadow). From there we continue upwards and when the SW ridge of Kepa becomes rocky, the unmarked path leads us below the ridge towards the right. Above, iz gains the ridge again and in its vicinity ascends on top. 4 h, not marked, only for experienced!

From the North


4. From Bertahuette, 1527 m. 2 hours to the summit. The marked route goes through NE ravine, steep walk-up, in winter and spring also a ski tour. The easyest approach. Bertahuette can be reached by various paths: From the north portal of Karavanke tummel (marked), from Koča nad Arihovo pečjo (hut), 1080 m, from Spodnje Dobje/Unteraichwald (marked), etc.

Kepa/Mittagskogel from the NE
The NNE ridge

5. From Bertahuette over the NE ridge. This is the most beautiful 'normal' ascent on Kepa/Mittagskogel. It is marked, and where the ridge allows the path, it is well beaten. But the ascent is not protected, the hardest place in the beginning is around UIAA II, later it's UIAA I. The route can be combined with the descent by the route #4.

The long range of Karavanke offers of course a great possibility to hike all along the range in an east-west direction or the opposite one. In this case the route #1 is reached from the east, from Planina Dovška Rozca or Dovška Baba just below Mlinca saddle. Coming from the west, the route #3 is reached by a not marked route, following the main ridge from Črni vrh/Schwarzkogel, 1751 m and Kresišče, 1839m.

Climbs in the North face


Although north face is rocky, there are not many possibilities for climbing and some relatively easy routes were done decades ago.

- North-north-east ridge, UIAA I-II, 1 h 30 min.
- North ridge, UIAA III, 2 h, first ascent Auer, Kollnitz, Raditschnigg & Wegener, 1926.

Red Tape

No limitations. For Karavanke tunnel you must pay toll.

When To Climb

Mojstrovica scenery
Autumn shot
Autumn bath
A. Gospić - Late afternoon on Kepa
Kepa/Mittagskogel can best be climbed in early summer (flowers), from July to October (stable weather, clear views) and in good conditions also from February to May doing a ski tour (or a classical winter ascent). With an appropriate winter equipment the summit can be reached also in hard winter, the easyest route is the above mentioned #4.

Camping

In valleys there are camping places, but you will need some kind of transfer anyway to reach trailheads.

North of Kepa there are two mountain huts:

Bertahuette, 1567 m. Open from mid June to end of September. Tel 0664/5968677.
Koča (=hut) nad Arihovo pečjo, 1080 m.

Mountain Conditions

For weather see here.

Images