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Stol/Hochstuhl
Mountain/Rock

Stol/Hochstuhl

 
Stol/Hochstuhl

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Karavanke (Karawanken), Austria/Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.43372°N / 14.17425°E

Object Title: Stol/Hochstuhl

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling, Via Ferrata, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7335 ft / 2236 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Nov 11, 2002 / Oct 3, 2012

Object ID: 151335

Hits: 13790 

Page Score: 88.61%  - 27 Votes 

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What's New On This Page?

> August 21st, 2011 - Page rewritten, best images embedded.
> October 31st, 2007 - Images attached/detached.
> August 8th, 2005 - A complete redesign of the page.
> August 3rd, 2005 - A chapter for the neighbouring Vajnez/Weinasch added.

Overview

 
Hochstuhl, 2.236m
flow - The summit of Stol/Hochstuhl
 
Bled lake
toc - From the south (Bled lake)
 
Stol/Hochstuhl
From the north
 
Stol/Hochstuhl group
Branko - Stol group from the distance (east)
 
Stol/Hochstuhl from below Vrtaca
From the E (Vrtača)
General remarks:

  • When reading Slovenian words on maps or in books, you will find special characters for ch, sh, and zh. They are written with c, s and z with a caron - little v above them - like this: č, š, ž.

  • On this page I shall describe not only Stol/Hochstuhl summit but also some minor mountains in its narrow group.

    Overview:

    Stol is the highest mountain in the about 120 km long Karavanke/Karawanken Range on which the border between Slovenia and Austria runs. In their highest part, Karavanke/Karawanken are exhibiting already a high alpine character (otherwise they are milder). And Stol/Hochstuhl is a typical mountains of this range.

    Stol/Hochstuhl sends high grassy slopes towards the south. Some 1000 meters below the summit these slopes flatten for a while in a nice terrace with beautiful, panoramic meadows. Then the forrested slopes descend another 600 meters towards the valley of Sava river. On the southern slopes you can find several interesting features. Towards the top, there are fine, steep ravines, separated with some picturesque rocks. Below are sunny, still very panoramic alpine meadows. In the lowest part there are several hills, keeping their old memories and secrets.

    Towards the west, Stol/Hochstuhl sends a strong ridge towards Vajnež. This is the main ridge of Karavanke/Karawanken, which on the other side continues in the nort-eastern direction towards Vrtača saddle.

    The northern side of mountain is rocky and steep. Stol/Hochstuhl is not attractive for rock climbing - it can be done in the neighbouring walls - but the northern side offers all the rest: a nice, playful ferrata, steep ravines for spring snow base climbing, less demanding, but still steep passages on the main ridge, by which tour skiing of all difficulties is possible.

    Stol is known by its immense panorama. From the mountains in Istra over the whole Julian Alps to Dolomites, Hohe Tauern and Gurktaler Alps. In its close surroundings there are many mountain huts which make the ascent more pleasant. By the nature of Karavanke range the most beautiful are traverse tours - if you have a few days, you can walk on quite a high altitude, enjoying free panorama towards the south and north.

    Besides being frequently visited in summer and autumn, Stol offers also many possibilities for tour skiing. Because the north slopes are not only rocky, but on some places scree terrain reaches the crest itself, steep ski tours are especially beautiful towards the north. Towards the south and east skiing is possible through many more or less steep ravines and valleys.

    Geography of the Narrow Group

     
    Geographical orientation on...
     
     
    Hochstuhl, 2.236m
    flow - Stol/Hochstuhl and Orlice ridge

    Stol/Hochstuhl narrow group begins on the west on Medvedjak saddle, 1698 m, which separates it from the Struška massif. From Medvedjak the main ridge goes towards the SE to the summit of Belščica, 2017 m and further to Vajnež, 2104 m, the most importand neighbour of Stol on the west. SE of Vajnež there's the Vajnež saddle, 1972 m, where also a descent towards the N is possible from the main ridge. Vajnež is attached to the main Stol massif on the summit of Potoški Stol, 2014 m. From this unimportant summit to Stol a narrow ridge goes, from which two steep passages are possible towards the northern screes (Dolga Riža and Široka Riža). Just before the summit of Stol, 2236 m from the north a steep, rocky ridge comes, carrying the popular north ferrata.

    SE of the main summit Mali Stol, 2172 m is standing (with a hut just below its summit). From the highest Stol summit the main Karavanke ridge continues towards the NE. This ridge is known as Orlice and carries a few sharp and hardly approachable peaks. Beyond the first notch there's a sharp and beautiful Celovška špica / Klagenfurter spitze, 2105 m. The next notch divides it from the double summit of Jelenčka / Edelweiss Spitzen and these are followed with Belščica saddle, 1840 m. From the notches of Orlice it is possible to descend down to both sides, easy towards the south and through steep and more demanding ravines towards the north. Belščica saddle is easy of course on both sides. Finally, N of Belščica there's a nice summit of Svačica, 1953 m, where the main Karavanke ridge turns again towards the east on Vrtača saddle, 1845 m, where the narrow Stol group finishes and Vrtača/Wertatscha massif begins. North of Svačica there's Vrata pass, 1712 m, where Stol massif is delimited from lower mountains on the north (Kozjak/Kosiak).

    Summit Panoramas

    From Ancient Times

     
    The double peak behind is...
    Ajdna behind
     
    Stol/Hochstuhl
    Lodewijk - Stol and its heritage

    Before the very southern slopes of Stol there is a steep rock, called Ajdna. Ajd means in Slovenian a pagan (I think in German there is a similar word Heide). On the top of this rock archeologists discovered rests of a village from late antique, namely from the 5th and 6th century a.d. The rock was accessible only from one side, and on the top of it, some 450 m above the Sava valley, ancient houses and a church were discovered. Nowadays this site is reconstructured to a certain degree, just to boost visitors' imagination. So, if you travel around and see a lot of steep hills around the mighty Stol, you can think that may be on more of them 2000 years ago people lived.

    The ascent on Ajdna is a short and rewarding hike. On the road below Valvasor Hut we take a left branch and soon come to the place where the marked path deters left. When reaching below the rock, we can decide either for a short ferrata (carefully!) or the easier path right around.

    Getting There

     
    Zabreška planina
    Spring on Zabreška planina (alpine meadow)
    From the south (Slovenian side) Stol can be reached from Sava valley. Three roads lead us into its massif (they all reach the altitude of about 1100 m):
    1. From Jesenice through the valley of Javornik creek.
    2. From Žirovnica to Valvasor mountain hut.
    3. From Žirovnica into Završnica valley.

    From the north (Austrian side) you start the approach in Drava/Drau valley:
    1. From Feistritz/Bistrica towards the south the Baerental/Medvedji dol valley goes. The road is closed for public traffic near Stouhuette (hut), 960 m.
    2. The second north approach is from the main road Klagenfurt - Ljubljana, via Ljubelj Pass / Loiblpass. Approaching from the north, you turn before the border towards the west into Bodental/Poden, where the road ends on the altitude of 1050 m.

    There is also a more remote approach from the east. From the south portal of Ljubelj Pass tunnel (on the Slovenian side) you can take a cable car to Zelenica, 1536 m and from there traverse the slopes of Vrtača to the Stol massif.

    You can see a detailed map on:

    http://www.austrianmap.at/.

    That's in German, but as of classical maps, you can refer to:

    Karavanke, 1:20000. Planinska zveza Slovenije, or
    Karavanke, Central part and Grintovci, 1:50000. Planinska zveza Slovenije.

    For ski tours refer to:
    1. Manfred Korbaj: 1. Kaerntner Schitourenfuehrer. H. Weishaupt Verlag. Graz. 1992. (In German language)
    2. M. Črnivec, C. Praček: Turni smuki. Planinska zveza Slovenije, 1984. (In Slovenian language)

    Routes list

     
    A self-made map of Stol with...
     
     
    Traversing from Stol to Vajnez
    On the W ridge
     
    One of the possible routes...
    The north ravines from ferrata
    This is the list of mountain paths and easier climbs, reaching the summit of Stol/Hochstuhl (numbers correspond to the map). Follow the links to the pages with more detailed descriptions.

    1. From Valvasorjev dom (1171 m), 3 h, steep, but not difficult usual approach from the S. Marked walk up. We quickly gain altitude, nice views.

    2. From Valvasorjev dom (1171 m) over Zabreška planina. A bit longer than #1, steep, but not difficult, marked walk up. 3 h 30 min.

    From Dom Pristava (979 m) or Javornik Creek, 4-5 h, marked path, not difficult walk up. The variant over the border ridge is harder. See the page of Vajnež!

    4. From Klagenfurter Huette, 1663 m, over Belščica (saddle), 2 h 30 min (from Bodental 4 h 30 min), marked, partly steep, but not difficult walk up. The normal approach from the N.

    5. From Završnica valley (1100 m), 3 h 30 min, not marked, partly steep, but not difficult walk up.

    6. From Dom na Zelenici (1536 m), 3 h, marked, not difficult walk up. On a few places of the upper path below Vrtača helmet useful (falling stones).

    7. From Klagenfurter Huette, 1663 m, over Široka Riža or more to the west Dolga Riža. Steep scree slope, 2-3h. Mainly used for descents.

    8. From Klagenfurter Huette (1663 m), 2 h 30 min. There are four approaches, two were already mentioned under #4 and #7, directly over the north rocks of Stol goes a medium difficult ferrata and the fourth possibility is...

    9. Two steep scree passages which lead you from Klagenfurter Huette (1663 m) to the main crest east of the summit (not marked): Janezev zleb and Martin zleb.

    10. From Poden valley (Bodental) over the Vrtača pass. Scree slopes, quite hard walk-up. Not marked. 4 h. Rarely used in summer.

    11. Orlice ridge (Stol NE ridge). From Belščica notch, 1840 m over the two peaks of Jelenčka / Edelweiss Spitzen, 1964 m, Celovška špica / Klagenfurter Spitze, 2105 m, and Krkotnik, 2116 m to the main summit. UIAA III (one detail), mostly UIAA II. 3 h 15 min.

    Ski tours list

     
    The summit ski approach to Stol
    On a ski tour from the east
     
    Stol
    haubi - Stol in winter clothes
     
    Svacica from the W
    Near Klagenfurter Huette / Celovška koča
    From the south:

    1. From Valvasor hut (1171 m), on Stol/Hochstuhl by the ordinary south route. 3 h ascent, 1 h skiing. Steep, southern slopes.
    2. Valvasor hut (1171 m), Prešernova koča (left ravine) - Stol. 3 h, 1 h skiing, very steep southern slopes.
    3. Valvasor hut (1171 m), Prešernova koča (right ravine) - Stol. 3 h, 1 h skiing, very steep southern slopes.

    From the east:

    1. From Završnica valley - V Kožnah basin - Stol. 4 h, 1 h 30 min skiing. Moderate steep eastern slopes.
    2. Završnica valley - East ravine - Prešernova koča - Stol. 4 h, 1 h 30 min skiing. Steep eastern slopes.
    3. From Zelenica hut - V Kožnah basin - Stol. 4 h, 2 h skiing. Moderate steep eastern and north-eastern slopes. From Zelenica to Ljubelj there is an ordinary ski resort.

    From the north:

    1. From Klagenfurter Huette - Belščica Saddle - Stol. 4 h, 1 h 30 min skiing. Steep northern slopes.
    2. From Bodental - Belščica Saddle - Stol. 4 h, 1 h 30 min skiing. Steep north-eastern slopes.
    3. From Klagenfurter Huette you can in good conditions ski over any of steep scree slopes on the northern face of Stol and Vajnež - very steep!
    4. In addition from the north there are also some alpinistic possibilities, where the slopes (channels and ravines) are more steep as in "normal" ski tours. Janežev žleb, Martin žleb (not to the top), Central ravine (Osrednja grapa).

    From the west:

    1. From Javornik creek through Medji dol on Vajnež (2104 m). Ascent: 4 hours, skiing: 2 hours. Not difficult. In good conditions the tour can be prolongued also to Stol (as a winter ascent, not skiing).

    Vajnez/Weinasch

    Vajnež is a distinct, from both, south and north side, quite respectful mountain. It is connected with Stol with a long ridge, which beyond Vajneževo sedlo (saddle) rises first on Potoški Stol and then continues to the main summit of Stol. Now (2011) it has on SP its own page.

    Celovska Spica / Klagenfurter Spitze

     
    Celovska spica / Klagenfurter Spitze
    Klagenfurter Spitze / Celovška špica
     
    Klagenfurter Spitz
    flow - Klagenfurter Spitze / Celovška špica
    The first summit NE of the main Stol summit is an undistinct Krkotnik, then comes the sharp Klagenfurter Spitze / Celovška špica, 2103 m. It is most beautifully seen from the NE, from below Vrata pass. Towards the N it sends a 400 m high, steep wall, which is one of the most popular walls for harder climbing in Karavanke/Karawanken. The summit can be most easilly reached (scramble) by the steep and on the upper part also exposed ridge, going up from the notch NE of the summit. The notch can be reached from both sides, easier from the Slovenian than from the Austrian side.

    Traversing the whole ridge from Belščica notch, 1840 m, to the summit of Stol is a nice climb, which already has some harder details (UIAA III, on the SW ridge of Klagenfurter Spitze / Celovška špica.

    The three classical N face climbing routes are (from the west):

  • Chimney Route (Kaminska smer, Kaminreihe). 350 m, UIAA III, 3 h 30 min. Beautiful and popular.
  • Direct Route (Direktna smer, Direkte Route). 400 m, UIAA IV/III, 4 h.
  • Horeschovsky (North) butress. 400 m, UIAA III/II, 3 h 30 min.

    Jelencka / Edelweisspitzen

     
    Jelencka / Edelweisspitzen
    Jelencka/Edelweisspitzen

    NE of Klagenfurter Spitze / Celovška špica the main ridge goes over two sharp peaks, both 1964 m, which are itself not important, but when treversing the whole ridge they offer a nice, easy, but quite exposed climb (UIAA II). From the rest of the ridge they are delimited with Celovška škrbina / Klagenfurter Scharte (notch), 1924 m, on the SW and Belščica notch, 1840 m, on the NE. Both notches are easilly accessible from both sides.

    Svacica

     
    Svacica summit ridge
    On the summit ridge of Svačica
    The NE cornerstone of Stol massif is a triangular summit of Svačica, 1953 m. Here the main summit of Karavanke turns from the NE direction to the E direction, continuing to Vrtača massif. Svačica is delimeted from the rest of Stol's NE ridge with Belščica notch, 1840 m, from Vrtača massif with Vrtača saddle, 1845 m and from Kozjak/Kosiak summit with Vrata / Matschacher Saddle, 1714 m. The SE side of the summit is not steep, covered with grass and dwarf-pine and offers the easiest ascent (the summit ridge is a bit exposed). In winter and spring this slope is the natural top point of a ski tour (till the fore-summit). The N ridge is rocky, consisting of many towers. But through a ravine right of it from Vrata pass an easy climb (UIAA I) goes.
     
    Svacica from south
    Svačica from the S
     
    Svacica from the N-NW
    Svačica from the N-NW
    Svacica northern ravines
    The northern ravines

    Red Tape

     
    Kleiner Fuchs / Little Tortoiseshell (Nymphalis urticae)
    Herb - Kleiner Fuchs / Little Tortoiseshell (Nymphalis urticae)
    No limitations.

    When To Climb

    Stol/Hochstuhl can be climbed any time of a seson. When slopes are icy or covered with high snow, the ascent can be dangerous and the complete winter equipment is needed.

    Weather: Click the sticker below!

    Click for Občina Bled, Slovenija Forecast

    Mountain huts

    Mountain huts, convenient for Stol ascent and their approaches are:

    1. Valvasorjev dom, 1171 m, parking place.

    2. Prešernova koča, 2172 m, 15 minutes below the summit of Stol, 2 h 30 min from Valvasorjev dom.

    3. Dom Pristava, 979 m, parking place.

    4. Dom na Zelenici, 1536 m. Cable-car till there.

    5. Stouhuette, 960 m, parking place.

    6. Klagenfurter Huette, 1663 m, 2 hours from Stouhuette, a little less from the parking place.

    7. Bodental private pension, 1050 m, parking place.

    A few general facts for tourists and about camping you can find here (Slovenia) and here (Austria).

    Images