Moelwyn Bach : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

"There are miles of high crags along the south slopes of the Nantlle valley and many more on Moelwyn Mawr... all inviting places that can be explored and re-explored by naturalists without exhausting the possibility of new discoveries, new delights."

William Condry (1918-1998)

Moelwyn Bach is best known as the little sister of its neighbouring peak, Moelwyn Mawr. Some 50 metres its junior, the mountain is rarely an objective in its own right and is most often done in conjunction, via the ridge of Craigysgafn, with the larger Moelwyn. Despite its smaller size, the mountain is a much more complex beast, being home to a variety of rock climbs and mini-scrambles. The mountain’s Southern-Western Cliffs, in fact, offer some of the Moelwynion's best mid to high grade routes, notably Man in the Moon (E5 6a), Igam-ogam (E1 5b), Maen Tŵr Og (E2 5c) and Expose (E4 6a/b). Despite boasting a high number of quality routes, climbers rarely visit the mountain, preferring instead to stop short at one of the area’s more accessible crags, such as Clogwyn y Bustach, Clogwyn yr Oen and Craig y Wrysgan. Expelling the extra effort to reach Moelwyn Bach therefore, can pay huge dividends for those looking for somewhere quiet to climb, but unwilling to compensate on quality.

Moelwyn Bach (left) and Moelwyn Mawr (right) (Photo by mills)

Rock Climbing

The climbing on Moelwyn Bach is split between its Summit Cliffs, the Summit Nose, the Southern-Western Cliffs and Craigysgafn. The South-Western Cliffs are by far the more complex of these and has the greatest number of routes.

Unless otherwise stated, routes are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the Climbers’ Club Guide to Meirionnydd, so for full descriptions, please refer to this source.

Please be aware that the Moelwynion are a trad climbing venue and bolting is strictly prohibited. Routes are rated using the British Adjectival Grading System. Technical grades are generally only given to climbs graded adjectivally as Hard Severe (HS) or above. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available: download it here.

Route Symbols:

	A so-so route, neither good nor bad. Not unpleasant unless otherwise stated.
	A good route which is definitely worth a climb.
	A very good route, one of the best on the crag and well worthy of attention.
	An excellent route, one of the best in the area, and probably in Britain too.

	No Restrictions Used to indicate that there are currently no restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route.
	Restrictions Used to indicate that there are restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route. See the Red Tape and Access Section for more details.

Summit Cliffs

The crag beneath the summit on the east side of the mountain (SH 663 338) is around 45 metres high and gives a few climbs of Difficult to Very Difficult standards.

Summit Nose

The prominent nose (SH 660 440) seen from the Moelwyn Ridge is about 27 metres high an can be climbed anywhere at about Difficult standard. There is a short overhanging section, which is obviously much harder, giving a brief but strenuous problem.

Summit Cliffs
(Photo by Nanuls)

Craigysgafn
(centre left)
(Photo by Nanuls)

Southern-Western Cliffs
(Photo by Nanuls)

Southern-Western Cliffs

These cliffs take the form of a series of scattered outcrops on Moelwyn Bach’s southern ridge (SH 655 434). They’re home to a number of great routes on that perfect Moelwyn quartzite, furthermore, they’re south facing and catch the sun all day.

No.	Name	Length	Pitches	Adjectival Grade	Technical Grade
1.	Arberth	30m	2	HVS	5a
2.	They'll Never Keep Us Down	10m	1	E4	6a
3.	Moonrazor	15m	1	E2	5c
4.	Tir Na Nog	44m	2	HVS	5a
5.	Man in the Moon	25m	2	E5	6a
6.	Igam-Ogam	39m	2	E1	5b, 5b
7.	Non Welsh-Speaker's Conundrum	40m	1	E4	5c
8.	The Dogs Dinner	21m	1	HVS	5a
9.	On Easter Island	20m	1	E4	6a
10.	Maen Tŵr Og	20m	1	E2	5c
11,	Yr Holltalluog	21m	1	HVS	5a
12,	Beneath the Underdog	46m	1	HVS	5a
13.	The Misfortunes of Elphin	23m	1	E2	5c
14.	Exepel of Air	15m	1	E4	5c
15.	Cym Haul	18m	1	VS	4c
16.	Sundance Kid	18m	1	HVS	5a
17.	The Slot Machine	20m	1	E4	6a
18.	Expose	15m	1	E4	6a/6b
19.	Agenda	24m	1	E1	5b
20.	On Impulse	6m	1	E5	5c
21.	Thor's Wall	20m	1	E5	6b
22.	Loki Crack	18m	1	HVS	5a
23.	Fifth Anniversary	18m	1	E2	5c
24.	Penbwl Corner	37m	1	VS	4c

Craigysgafn

The diminutive crag (SH 657 443) on the ridge connecting Moelwyn Bach and Moelwyn Mawr gives a number of poor, short routes on friable rock.

Mountain Conditions

This section displays the weather forecast for Tanygrisiau, which is located to the south and is one of the nearest towns to Moelwyn Bach. Remember that Tanygrisiau sits at 200m above sea level, whereas the summit of Moelwyn Bach reaches 710m. This means that when looking at temperature the adiabatic lapse rate must be taken into account, which in Wales is a drop in temperature of between 0.5 and 1°C per 100m in altitude. Exposure and wind speed can also significantly lower temperatures.

Weather Forecast | Weather Maps | Weather Radar | Hurricane Center

When to Climb and Essential Gear

Moelwyn Bach can be climbed at anytime of the year, however in poor conditions the mountain may be best avoided. April to September offer the most reliable conditions and one will need all the equipment one usually carries for a day in the mountains, which in Wales means full waterproofs and sturdy boots as a minimum.

If you’re lucky enough to climb the mountain in winter conditions then an ice axe and crampons would be very useful.

The summit
(Photo by daveyboy)

Stay away from mine shafts!
(Photo by Nanuls)

Moelwyn Bach
(Photo by Nanuls)

Getting There

Moelwyn Bach is located in the southern Moelwynion, between the valleys of Cwm Croesor in the west and the Vale of Ffestiniog in the east. The mountain can be approached from either of these valleys, both giving an interesting walk in.

Cwm Croesor may only be reached from the south. If you’re coming from the east therefore, leave the A487 in Penrhyndeudraeth (SH 611 389) and take the A4085 north in the direction of Beddgelert (SH 590 481). Just after the village of Garreg (SH 612 416), there is a right hand turn (SH 614 420), which is signposted for the village of Croesor (SH 630 447). The village is reached after around 3km. Park in the small National Park run car park in the village. There's also a great parking spot at the highest point of the Croesor to Rhyd road (SH 635 434), just outside the forested area on the Rhyd side and directly below a prominent telegraph pole.

If you’d rather start your walk from the Vale of Ffestiniog, the most convenient starting point is the small car park just above the village of Tanygrisiau. To reach it, leave the A470 at the roundabout in Blaenau Ffestiniog (SH 697 460) and take the A496 in a southerly direction over the railway line. Continue along the A496 for a kilometre or so to a small junction on the right hand side (SH 688 448). Take this junction and then turn left immediately, following the signs for the Ffestiniog Power Station; 500 metres down the road there’s a café on the left hand side; it’s a great place to start and end a day in the hills. Pass the café and follow the curving road up the hill to the car park at the top of Tanygrisiau (SH 683 453).

Moelwyn Bach
(Photo by Bryan Benn)

Moelwyn Bach
(Photo by daveyboy)

Craigysgafn
(Photo by daveyboy)

Red Tape and Access

No red tape here!

Although unlikely it's worth checking the countryside access map provided by the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) regarding whether or not any restrictions on movement in the area are in place.

Countryside Access Map

For climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) runs a Regional Access Database, which holds mountain/crag specific information on matters of conservation and access, including issues such as nesting restrictions, nature designations and preferred parking.

Regional Access Database

If you are in any doubt about any particular access arrangement, or need to report an incident, you should contact your local BMC Access Representative or the BMC Access Officers for Wales: Elfyn Jones.

Moelwyn Mawr
(Photo by daveyboy)

Old slate workings
(Photo by daveyboy)

Summit trig point
(Photo by daveyboy)

Camping and Accommodation

There’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Snowdonia National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites:

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Independent Hostel Guide
Campsites in Gwynedd

Maps

Open Space Web-Map builder Code

Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 17 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 18 Harlech, Porthmadog & Bala/Y Bala

OS 1:50k Landranger Series 115 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa

OS 1:50k Landranger Series 124 Porthmadog & Dolgellau

Harvey Map Services 1:25k Snowdon and the Moelwynion

Harvey Map Services 1:50k Snowdonia British Mountain Map

Road Maps

OS Road Map 9 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

	Snowdonia (Official National Park Guide) by Merfyn Williams with contributions from Ian Mercer and Jeremy Moore A handy book full of useful information and interesting facts about the National Park.
	The Mountains of England and Wales: Vol 1 Wales by John and Ann Nuttall A classic book covering the Welsh ‘Nuttalls’, which obviously include the Moelwynion.
	Hillwalking in Snowdonia by Steve Ashton A guidebook to nearly 70 hillwalking routes throughout Snowdonia, including the Moelwynion.

	Hillwalking in Wales Vol 2 by Peter Hermon The second of two guidebooks describing walking routes up every 2000-footer in Wales – covers the Moelwynion to the Tarrenydd.

	Climbers Club Guide Wales: Meirionnydd by Martin Crocker, John Sumner, Terry Taylor, Elfyn Jones, with contributions from Mike Rosser, Mike Lewis and Dave Wrennall The definitive climbing guide to the area. Contains detailed descriptions and excellent diagrams of all known rock routes in the Moelwynion. An essential purchase if you plan to do a lot of climbing in Mid Wales.