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Moiazza Group

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Moiazza Group

Page Type: Area/Range

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.33890°N / 12.05820°E

Object Title: Moiazza Group

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling, Via Ferrata

Season: Summer

Elevation: 9442 ft / 2878 m

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Oct 27, 2007 / Aug 22, 2017

Object ID: 351145

Hits: 8020 

Page Score: 88.19%  - 26 Votes 

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Overview

Moiazza


What's New on this Page?

* Jul 28, 2017 - Ownership switched by andrea
* Aug 3, 2017 - Overhaul of the page, new chapters created, links restored, new pictures attached


The Moiazza Group, extending southwards with a long, narrow and bifurcated shape, begins near the Forcella delle Sasse 2476 m. and terminates with the Sass del Duran 2578 m, giving rise to different bifurcations that originate numerous "van" or "vant" both from the Agordino and Zoldano sides. At the north end of Moiazza is the Forcella delle Sasse, an important crossing linking the Zoldano with Val Corpassa and then the Agordino. Moiazza, which had been often considered part of the Civetta Massif because of its close proximity to this group, is a mountain range now treated as a separate range and properly considered apart from the neighbouring Civetta. Infact the pass called "Forcella delle Sasse" 2476 m, which is the lowest point, divides along the direction North-South the Moiazza from the broader and more known Civetta.

The massif is located in Belluno province, between the municipalities of "Agordo" to the West and "Zoldo" to the East. The southern boundary is "Passo Duran" 1605 m, a road pass connecting the municipalities of La Valle Agordina and Zoldo Alto. Moreover, Passo Duran separates the Moiazza group from the adjacent and minor "San Sebastiano" group.

Moiazza group seen from Passo Duran
Moiazza group seen from Passo Duran



Moiazza is often considered as secondary importance if compared to the neighbours "Marmolada", "Civetta" or "Pelmo", on the contrary it offers some walls of remarkable majesty as the Castello delle Nevere 2599 m, an imposing wall of pure dolomite, whose imposingness can be observed nearby the village of Listolade. Moreover it hosts several very nice rock towers and walls, and wild valleys rarely visited by alpinists and hikers.

The summit of Moiazza sud.
The summit of Moiazza Sud

Moiazza
An early morning view to Moiazza from Malga la Foca



The most outstanding part of it, it's certainly the southern, which rises above the village of Agordo, and where the "Ferrata Costantini" permits to discover the finest ridges and the main summit. Ferrata Costantini is also considered one of the hardest Via Ferrata of the Dolomites.
As well as numerous routes for skilled climbers inside wild and uncrowded areas and other ones more known and attended, mainly in Masenade-Cantoni dei Duran subgroup, there are also many itineraries for hikers, which allow to appreciate Moiazza from every sides.

The south flank of the southern summit seen from Forcella delle Masenade.
The S flank of Moiazza Southern summit seen from Forcella delle Masenade - Photo andrea


The Moiazza group is crossed by the "Alta Via delle Dolomiti" n. 1, a trail starting from Lago di Braies and ending with the Schiara group. The sector concerning Moiazza includes the path 554 starting from Ref. Vazzoler, crossing Col dell'Ors, skirting the base of Torri del Camp, crossing Van dei Cantoi and getting the Rif. Carestiato. From here the trail proceeds along the forest road to Casera Duran, where on the right there's a marked path leading to Passo Duran.

We can divide the massif in five further subgroups:

Main chain
Crèpe della Moiazzetta
Masenade-Cantoni del Duràn
Cantoni delle Nevère
Cantoni di Framònt

Getting there

The sides to approach the massif are three: the West and South ones, above Agordo valley, and the East one above Zoldo Valley.

From Agordo Valley:
The Agordo valley is the start point for reach the Moiazza and the south part of Civetta.
From "Val Corpassa", which is a secondary valley, it starts the paths directed to the area of Cantoni delle Nevere, Crepe della Moiazzetta, Cantoni di Framont and the Forcella delle Sasse.

Passo Duran is the highest point for the approach of the south side end the "Ferrata Costantini".
To village of Agordo, by car(SR203), or by bus from the major cities of Veneto region.

From Zoldo Valley:
From Zoldo valley, start the paths directed to the east side of the mountain, and the secondary valley called "Val della Grava", permits an easy rapprochement.

To the valley of Zoldo and the minors villages of Forno di Zoldo and Zoldo Alto, by car(SR251), or by busses from the majors cities of Veneto region.



The Moiazza group seen from Civetta.
The Moiazza group seen from Civetta - Photo andrea



Subgroups

Main Chain

This is the main section, hosting the highest summits. It runs from North to South, with impressive walls on both the sides. The summits are:

- Cima di Nali 2776 m
- Moiazza Nord 2870 m
- Torrione delle Nevere 2860 m
- Rocchette delle Nevere 2843 m
- Moiazza Sud 2878 m

Crepe della Moiazzetta

This is the northern section on the border with Monte Civetta.The summits are:
- Cima della Moiazzetta della Grava 2727 m
- Cima delle Sasse 2878 m
- Col dei Camorz 2489 m
- Crepa Alta 2543 m

The summit of Moiazza sud and its west wall.
The summit of Moiazza sud and its west wall
Moiazza sud seen from Forcella delle Masenade.
Moiazza Sud seen from Forcella delle Masenade
The Forcella delle Sasse and Cima della Moiazzetta della Grava on the right.
Forcella delle Sasse and Cima della Moiazzetta della Grava



Masenade-Cantoni dei Duran

Above Passo Duran. Probably the most impressive, if seen from south. This part hosts the "Ferrata".
The summits are:
- Cresta delle Masenade 2737 m
- Pala delle Masenade 2413 m
- La Cattedrale 2558 m
- Sass del Duran 2515 m

The west side of Moiazza seen from Monte Civetta.
The west side of Moiazza seen from Monte Civetta
Masenade and Moiazza
Moiazza seen from Cima di S. Sebastiano
Cresta delle Masenade
Cresta delle Masenade



Cantoni delle Nevère

Southwest part, rising above Val Corpassa. It hosts the bivouac Ghedini.
The summits are:
- Cima delle Nevere 2621 m
- Cimon dei Zoldani 2494 m
- Campanile dei Zoldani 2465 m

Cantoni di Framònt

The less important section, placed over the villages of Agordo and Listolade. It doesn't offer any climb and hike interests. The highest point are:
- Lastia di Framont 2294 m
- Mont Alt 2181 m

The east side of Moiazza seen in the sunrise from biv.Grisetti.
East side seen from biv.Grisetti - Photo andrea


Routes overview and History

Moiazza, as the rest of Dolomites, hosts a lot of different routes. Too many for a precise list.
In this page will be explained only the major routes of the Main Chain and the Crepe della Moiazzetta.

Cima della Moiazzetta della Grava(2727m):
N ridge: E.Clement, O.Shuster, G.Zecchini 21/07/1904 (1.30h PD)
S ridge: A.Andreoletti, A.della Bianca, G.Pasquali, G.Mezzacasa 19/07/1913 (1.30h F)

Cima delle Sasse(2878m):
E flank: C.Tomè, E.Conedera 19/09/1895 (2h PD)
N ridge: F.Steirl, H.Baumgartl 06/07/1935 (2h TD)
SW wall: K.Merk, H.Shneider 17/08/1930 (450m IV/V)

Cima di Nali(2776m): E wall: C.Tome', E.Conedera 22/09/1875 (6h D)

Moiazza Nord(2870m):
E wall: S.Sperti, V.Angelini, G.Angelini 15/07/1925 (500m D)
SE wall: A.Piccolo, O.Casellato, F.Verbano 25/09/1966 (550m III/IV)

Rocchette delle Nevere(2843m):
Entire ridge from N to S: G.Zorzi 27/08/1942 (4/5h II/III)
E wall: U.Pomarici, G.Fiammengo 15/08/1966 (350m III/IV)

Moiazza Group
Cantoni del Duran
San Sebastiano - Tamer group
S. Sebastiano seen from the path to Ref. Carestiato
Moiazza group seen from the summit of Pala del Belia
View from the summit of Pala del Belia



Moiazza Sud(2878m):
Ferrata Costantini: Very hard ferrata (1000m 5/6h EEA)
E wall: G.Zorzi, P.Mason 22/08/1951 (400m IV)
S flank: C.Capuis, G.Angelini, F.Vienna 28/08/1931 (4/5h IV)
S spur: C.Barbier, A.da Roit, U.Benvegnù 09/1961 (700m IV/V)
S wall: U.Benvegnù, R.Conedera 12/07/1964 (600m IV/V)

Red Tape

There are not particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.
Moiazza Group belongs to the system "Pale di San Martino, Pale di San Lucano, Dolomiti Bellunesi, Vette Feltrine", which is one of the 9 areas of the Dolomites acknowledged as an UNESCO World Heritage Site.
More info in the article: Dolomites, living mountains by the SP member Silvia Mazzani

When to climb and hike

Best season goes from May to October, infact the low altitude of some towers allows climbing from late Spring to middle Autumn, naturally depending on the snow.

Accomodations

Rifugio Vazzoler 1714 m, CAI Conegliano, 86 places (10 winter) - Guardian: Bruno Sorarù - Open from 15/06 to 15/09. Phone: 0039-0437-660008
From Capanna Trieste (1,45 hours T).

Rifugio San Sebastiano 1605 m, 30 places. Permanently open. Phone: +39043762360
Location Passo Duran, from Agordo by car (9 Km.)

Refuge Vazzoler
Rifugio Vazzoler

Passo Duran
Rifugio San Sebastiano



Rifugio Cesare Tomè CAI 30 places - Guardian: Soro Dorotei
Open from middle June to the end of September Phone: 0039-3464165461
Location Passo Duran, from Agordo by car (9 Km.)

Rifugio Bruto Carestiato 1843 m, CAI Agordo, 44 places (9 winter) - Guardian: Fam. Diego Favero
Open from 15/06 to 20/09 Phone: +39043762949 +393929746984
From Passo Duran (45 minutes, T).

Bivacco Ghedini 2601 m, 5 places, CAI Agordo - Permanently open.
Placed on the Forcella delle Nevere. From Rif. Carestiato (2h EE), or by Via Ferrata (5h EEA).




 
The biv. Grisetti and the Cima delle Sasse in the background.
Biv. Grisetti and Cima delle Sasse

Bivacco Grisetti 2050 m, 9 places, CAI Trecenta - Permanently open.
From Passo Duran (3h E), from Chiesa (3h E)

Meteo

ARPAV Dolomiti Meteo

Dolomiti Meteo Veneto

DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks, Maps and useful Links





    - Guidebooks

    - “Moiazza – Roccia tra luce e mistero” 163 itinerari in Moiazza by Stefano Santomaso, Idea Montagna 2011
    - “IV grado in Dolomiti – Vol. II” by Emiliano Zorzi, Idea Montagna edizioni, 2010
    - “IV grado e più – Dolomiti Orientali” by Emiliano Zorzi – Luca Brigo – Carlo Piovan, Idea Montagna Edizioni, 2012
    - “Arrampicate scelte sul versante meridionale della Moiazza” by Soro Dorotei, 1994
    - "Civetta - Moiazza” – V. Dal Bianco – G. Angelini Tamari Editori in Bologna, first edition 1970, last edition 1984 (Last update in 1970)

    - Maps

    Kompass 1:50000 n. 77
    Tabacco 1:25000 n. 15
    Giralpina 1:25000 n. 3
    IGM 1:25000 n. 12

    Links:
    www.rifugi-bivacchi.com

    Images

    Moiazza group seen from the summit of Pala del BeliaSan Sebastiano - Tamer Group seen from the path to Pala del BeliaPala del Belia, Sorarù upper traverseMoiazza group seen from Passo DuranPala del BeliaPala del Belia, on Sorarù upper sectionMasenade - Cantoni del Duran at dawn
    Leontopodium alpinum - Pala del Belia (Dolomites)Cresta delle MasenadeMoiazza GroupPala del Belia and Pala del Bo from SouthPasso DuranSan Sebastiano - Tamer groupScenic peaks in Moiazza Group
    [ View Gallery - 28 More Images ]