Cotopaxi is the second highest mountain in Ecuador. It is also the most popular high climb in Ecuador.
Ecuador is a beautiful, friendly, interesting and diverse country.
They use US currency. This is a great travel destination and people thoughout the world travel here. There is much to see and do, the Galapagos, rain forest and mountaineering objectives abound. Take time to enjoy your self in this wonderful and culturaly diverse country.

Getting There

Cotopaxi National Park is located aprox. 55km south of the capitol city of Quito. It is easy to get to the turn-offs to the park by taking a southbound bus from Quito along the Pan-American Highway. You can find 4x4 drivers at the park entrance that are waiting for clients but this is inconsistant at best. Hiking in is not an option, its too long to the parking lot. I highly recommend that you stop at the nearby city of Latacunga where you can find gear, outfitters, good restaurants, nice and cheap hotels and a lot of opportunities and information for others 1-2 day trips around to Lagunas, extinct volcanos and nice markets (Salissili). This is also the place to hire a 4x4 driver. Just go to the market place and deal around with one of the multiples drivers parked there waiting to get clients. You can also fix arrangements for your return trip.
Another option is to stay in Quito, and typically you can hire a taxi to take you straight to the entrance of the National Park. This is much easier than trying to take a bus and etc... Look into staying at the Posada de Maple hostel ( do a web search for the site). They speak english and are close the college area. Posada has a wonderful restraunt serving the Ecuadorian fair. You can stock up on last minute supplies in Quito as well. Have the taxi take you to the entrance of the Park. There you hire a 4x4 driver to take you to the lot, typically about $20- $30. At this point, from the parking lot, you do have to hike up a ways and can either stay at the refugio head over the ridge to tent it. I recomend tenting, it obviously requires more gear, stove, food, tent etc, but is worth it as it is much more quiet and the views are stunning!

Red Tape

No permits are required to climb. There is a park enterance fee and a fee for staying at the climbers refuge. Both are about $18 US dollars each. Again, Ecuador uses US currency

When To Climb

Cotopaxi is blessed with the highest number of clear days per year in the Ecuadorian Andes. Climbs can be attempted year round. June and July are the driest months, but extremely high winds blowing for days on end are not uncommon. December and January are almost as dry and much less windy.

Camping and Refugio Info

The park has many camping sites. Camping is allowed on the mountain. The refugio Jose F. Rivas is located at aprox. 4800 meters on the Normal route. It is about a 1/2 hour from the parking area and the cost is $10 US/night. The hut is very nice in comparison to the Mexico huts. For a nominal fee they can provide dinner and H2O. You will find 50 bunks, water, electricity, a kitchen, pit-toilets, a fireplace and lockers to store your extra gear while you climb. Most parties do their summit bid directly from the hut. For the ones who search for tranquility, you can camp on a nice plateau a 100 meters right from the hut. The view is stunning and you are separate from the touristic crowd that pass by the hut every day. Keep in mind, if you choose to tent it and not pay the refugio, you can not use ANY of their facilities. The Inn Keepers sees to that. No h2o, no restrooms etc. We did manage to go in one night and warmed ourselves by the fire and chat with other climbers.

Conditions in Ecuador

We ran into economic unrest and riots, this is possible at any time in Ecuador. But mostly it is a clean and very friendly country. With one exception... DO NOT GO INTO DARK AREAS AT NIGHT, STAY AWAY FROM CONSPICUOUS AREAS!!
We were robbed, in Quito, at gun point, just a single block north of where we were staying and understand many others have been too.
Check conditions at:
www.voyage.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/destinations/menu_e.htm
or the US Dept web site.
Do not carry all your money and keep a copy of your passport on you, not the original. Make two copies before you leave for Ecuador, one to carry and one to give to a loved one back home for safe keeping.

Mountain Conditions

The mountain is not technicaly hard but does require crampons, ice axe and rope. The mountain is well crevassed, particularly at the beginning of the glacier. For the most part, the crevasses are spectacularly large and open thus easy to avoid but beware of the multiple snow bridges...travel by night and come back early as the snow gets very slushy.
The route is well beatin in but there are a few diff optioins down low.
Get up at midnight, be off at 1am and you can summit in 7-9 hours.
Spend a day or two is better if you have the time, acclimating and your climb will be smoother.
You hit the crux, or steepest section, just above the Yanasacha or the black band. Here you may want to rope up. Keep your head down and persever, the route winds around just a bit and continues up then you hit, easy type ridge. Here the steepness eases to the summit.

Guide-books

Climbing and Hiking in Ecuador, 4th Ed,
by Rob Rachowiecki, (January1998)

Ecuador : A Climbing Guide
by Yossi Brain. (September 2000

External Links

Chris Anthony's "Warren Miller 50" Trip Report
Ice-X Foundation
Dutch climbing foundation, supported by very enthousiastic climbers. Seven Summits on our programm (just climbed Aconcagua solo off-season). Lots of info and photos available. Site is in Dutch only yet. English version coming soon!
Climbing in Ecuador: Iliniza Norte, Iliniza Sur and Cotopaxi, 2003
Cotopaxi
Great video of Cotopaxi from Sept 2005

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