| Schwarzenstein / Sasso Nero Mountain/Rock |
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| Schwarzenstein / Sasso Nero   | 
| Page Type: Mountain/Rock Location: Tirol, Austria, Europe Lat/Lon: 47.01020°N / 11.87390°E Elevation: 11049 ft / 3368 m | Page By: walter denzel Created/Edited: May 18, 2004 / Mar 1, 2007 Object ID: 152635 Hits: 3439 Loading... Page Score: 87.58% - 20 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewSchwarzenstein / Sasso Nero, situated on the border between Austria and Italy, is one of the highest mountains in the main range of the Zillertal Alps. It lies between Turnerkamp (south-west) and Grosser Loeffler (north-east) and offers great views, eg of Grosser Moeseler, Turnerkamp and Grosser Loeffler.
Summer Route North Side (From The Berliner Huette)The starting point is the Berliner Huette (2,044 m). Follow the signposted trail leading up east.. After half an hour turn right (south) at the signpost. saying "Schwarzenstein". It's another hour to the lower end of the Schwarzensteinkees ("Kees" = glacier). Ascend straight up the glacier to the ridge. It's not difficult, and not dangerous. To my knowledge, there are no crevasses in this part of the glacier. At the ridge, turn right (west) and follow the rather flat "ridge", still on the glacier. The final ascent to the summit is over rocks. It is easy.
The ascent from the Berliner Huette to the top takes 4.5 hours. The difference in altitude is 1,324 m.Getting There (Berliner Huette)By car: Innsbruck - motorway A 12 - exit Zillertal - Mayrhofen - Zemmgrund - Ginzling - Gasthof Breitlahner (1,257 m) - car park (parking fee)
Walk to the Berliner Huette (2.5 hours, difference in altitude 787 m).
Summer Route South Side (From The Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto)The ascent from the Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto to the top takes 1.5 hours. The difference in altitude is 446 m.
Getting There (Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto)By car: Bruneck / Brunico - Tauferer Tal / Valle di Tures - Ahrntal / Valle Aurina - St. Johann in Ahrn / S. Giovanni - Stalliler / Stallila (1,470 m), where you can park your car
Starting from the Stalliler / Stallila, follow the signposted trail up the Rotbachtal. In the upper section of the route, there are two ways: you can follow the normal route, which leads up to the hut over the Rotbachkees ("Kees" = glacier), or rather over what is left of it. Nowadays the glacier is little more than a few patches of snow. As an alternative, you can climb on a "via ferrata“ (= "iron way"). The ascent to the Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto takes 4 hours. The difference in altitude is 1,452 m.
Via ferrata "Kamin":
Lupino describes the route as follows:
Starting from the Stalliler / Stallila, an old and authentic "alm" where you can enjoy genuine South Tyrolese food, follow the trail to Daimeralm / Malga Daimer (1,872 m). Then the path steepens as it leads up to the moraine. A wonderful and refreshing well is encountered at about 2,300 m. Stop there - you will be happy!
At about 2,500 m the path reaches the base of the Rotbachkees. When you get to the Stabeler Höhenweg (coming from the Chemnitzer Huette / Rifugio Giovanni Porro, about 5 hours), turn right and follow the sign “Kamin”, as the "ferrata" is named referring to its most interesting section. At about 2,700 m the “ferrata” begins, recently rebuilt and now without any serious risk (no stones and very good wire rope). After 150 meters of "ferrata" and 20 minutes more over blocks of stone you will arrive at the Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto.
Ski Route South Side (From The Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto)The Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto is open in March and April.
The ascent from the hut to the summit is fairly straightforward. It takes 1.5 hours. The difference in altitude is 446 m.
Getting There (Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto - Ski Routes)By car: Bruneck / Brunico - Tauferer Tal / Valle di Tures - Ahrntal / Valle Aurina - St. Johann in Ahrn / S. Giovanni - then, depending on the route you are going to take (see below), either to Tribbach (1,260 m), where you can park your car, or to the Stalliler (1,470 m), where you can also park your car
The normal ski route up to the Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto leads through the Tribbachtal, the valley to the east of the Rotbachtal.
The ascent from Tribbach to the Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto takes 4.5 hours. The difference in altitude is 1,662 m.
You can also ascend through the Rotbachtal, following more or less the summer route. The ascent from the Stalleler to the Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto takes 4 hours. The difference in altitude is 1,452 m.
AccommodationBerliner Huette (2,044 m)
The Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto, at 2,922 m, is the highest hut in the Zillertal Alps.
Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto (2,922 m)
When To ClimbJuly - September; March, April
Mountain ConditionsWeather
Current avalanche conditions
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