Šljeme

Overview

Šljeme (2455 m) (read "Shljeme") peak is third highest peaks of DURMITOR massif, behind Bobotov Kuk (2523 m) and Bezimeni Vrh (2487 m).

Actually, this is not peak like all others. Šljeme is 2 kilometres long high rocky plateau which height is more than 2400 m in average. On the Šljeme plateau exist many peaks and best known are Istocni Vrh (East Peak, 2445 m) and Vrh Sljemena (Šljeme Summit, 2455 m).

Sljeme and Savin Kuk (2313 m), which is N of it, make eastern edge of central Durmitor, above the Jezerska Povrs (Plateau of Lakes).

LOCATION: Crest of Sljeme stretches from the Milosev Tok (2426 m), which is on the western edge, to the pass which separates it from Savin Kuk (2313 m), on the north side. Southern and eastern slopes are huge. Towards S they descent into Poscenska Dolina valley while E slopes descent towards Jezerska Povrs (Lakes Plateau).


Šljeme is some kind of mixture of long grassy slopes and scree valleys or small scree basins, former glacial cirques. Northern and eastern side of the Šljeme have totally different configuration. Eastern side look to "tibetian" Jezerska Povrs (Lakes Plateau) vasted plateau, while Northern and most impressive side of Šljeme proudly staying above Ledeni Do basin and Velika Kalica valley, above famous glacier Debeli Namet which is all time under snow and ice. On the north end Šljeme is separated from Savin Kuk by narrow pass in the highest part and by the Korita valley which is placed between them. Šljeme falls into Korita valley with impressive Osojna Greda face.

Routes Overview

ROUTES OVERVIEW:

Whole crest of Sljeme, like whole Durmitor massif is very well marked. Usual route of Sljeme climbing start from Crno Jezero lake and goes to Savin Kuk, where route following eastern slope of Sljeme called Cista Strana and reaching Istocni Vrh (East Peak, 2445 m) and than also Vrh Sljemena (Sljeme Summit, 2455 m), highest peak of Sljeme massif.


Also, approach to Sljeme is possible directly from Savin Kuk summit through Zdrijelo colouir but this is quite unusual climbing section till the ridge of Sljeme. Because of this Sljeme is not visited by many people. But, once when you staying on the top of Sljeme, 2 km long and with 2455 m high altitude, you can feel like on the top of the world, total freedom and unboundedness. To be so high and walking 2 kilometres on this level is really something special! Sljeme climbing and staying on it's summit is really extraordinary adventure!



~ Crno Jezero Lake (1416 m) – Mioc Poljana (1569 m) – Panalj (1813 m) – Cista Strana – Sljeme (2455 m). Climbing time: 4h

~ Savin Kuk (2313 m) – Zdrijelo couloir – Sljeme (Istocni Vrh, East Summit, 2445 m). Climbing time: 45 min

Getting There

Gateway for climbing Sljeme (2455 m) peak in DURMITOR massif is Zabljak town. Information how to get there:

By Plane
~To Beograd (Belgrade, Serbia&Montenegro capital) airport. Than with plane to Podgorica, capital of Montenegro, or with bus or car to Zabljak town.
~To Podgorica airport. Than with bus or car to Zabljak town.

Information about flights find on the sites of JAT Airways, a former Yugoslav airlines, or on Montenegro Airlines.

By Bus
~Beograd (Belgrade)-Zabljak
~Podgorica-Zabljak
~Niksic-Zabljak
~Pljevlja-Zabljak

Buses go to Zabljak from Beograd (Belgrade) twice a day and from Podgorica, Niksic, Pljevlja and Mojkovac several times per day.

By Car
~Beograd (Belgrade)-Zlatibor-Nova Varos-Prijepolje-Pljevlja-Zabljak
~Niksic - Savnik (47km) - Zabljak (37km): 84km; Niksic to Zabljak approach from south.
~Niksic - Savnik (35km) - Zabljak (37km): 72km;
~Podgorica - Niksic (55 km)-Savnik (47 km)-Zabljak (37 km): 139 km; Add this length if you are going to Zabljak from Podgorica via Niksic. Road to Niksic from Podgorica is good.
~Podgorica - Kolasin (71km) - Mojkovac (21km) - Zabljak (67km): 159km; road is good all the way to Zabljak. Behind Podgorica (56m) you go inside Moraca River canyon (one of spectacular Montenegrin canyons). It is up to 1000m deep and has wild sides. That's spectacular drive. After that, from "Djurdjevica Tara" bridge to Zabljak - 23 km.

When To Climb

You can climb during all year seasons, but ideal period for climbing is mid June - mid September.

During the winter, Durmitor usually switches into ski resort. Under Savin Kuk peak (2313 m) is Durmitor Ski Center. (gondolas, ski lifts, chair lifts, restorants and their customers).

Crno Jezero (Black Lake) location is a common climbing starting point. All major trails further uphill are well marked with white circle/red border marks.

Whole Durmitor mountain is very good marked. Thanks to Branislav Cerovic, greatest knower and devoter of Durmitor National Park, who marked all routes on Durmitor mountain.

Camping

Inside of Durmitor National Park camping is permitted on camping dedicated spots only.

Major huts are in good condition, but with no service. Still, open to the general public. Hikers/climbers are supposed to bring all the jummy stuff with them.

On Durmitor exist camp in Ivan Do and few ~mountain huts and bivouacs:
~Hut with few small shepherd's houses in Lokvice valley
~Hut in Skrcka Lakes valley
~Bivouac in Velika Kalica valley
~Hut "Mushova koliba" on the road from Zabljak to Obla Glava (2303 m) peak, near Ledena Pechina (Ice Cave) - empty simply hut from wood, without service, simple conditions...

~In Ivan Do camp price for camping is 4 Euro per day.

Also, in Zabljak town you can rent private room or apartment. Price for 2-beds apartment with kitchen and bathroom: 10-12 Euro (5-6 Euro per person).

In some villages on mountain, for example in Bosaca village, you can rent a 2-beds apartment for price 6-8 Euro (3-4 Euro per person) with free milk products every day (1 liter of caw milk).

Red Tape

No fees or extra fees for entering the National Park.
No permits needed either.
Usual rules of behaviour for NPs do apply.

Mountain Conditions

Durmitor (Zabljak town) 5-7 days weather forecast

Images

View Šljeme Image Gallery - 66 Images