OverviewThe Notch is the obvious couloir located just left (south) of the Diamond. It often holds snow and ice year round, but the best conditions are usually found in the summer and fall months. This route can have dangerous avalanche conditions during the winter, as this face is windloaded by nearly contant winds that pummel Rocky Mountain in the winter. Huge avalanches sweep the couloir in the winter and spring, rocketing snow over the lower east face for 1000ft. Be sure to do your homework before heading out. I've provided a link below that may help.
Getting There
Traversing right to gain the Notch. |
The Notch is best approached from the Longs Peak trailhead, located off of Highway 7. Follow the well established and popular trail until you reach the Chasm Lake turnoff located 4.0 miles from the trailhead. Take a left here to climb over Mills Moraine and traverse to Chasm for and excellent view of the route and the rest of the stunning Diamond Face. After passing the lake, there are two options to gain Broadway. The first is to climb the 1.000ft chute Lambslide to Broadway. The other option is to climb Alexanders Chimney which is best during the fall when it is filled with ice and not as loose.
The crux of the travese. |
Route Description
Exiting the crux. |
As stated above, conditions can greatly vary, changing the character of this route. The couloir is about 1000ft from Broadway to the ridge and keeps a fairly constant pitch of about 30-35 degress. However short rock sections encountered can be near vertical.
The crux comes about halfway up the couloir when you reach a short wall. Here you might encounter water ice if the conditions are optimal. In a dry year this could be mixed terrain. On the other hand, there could be a lot of unconsolidated snow on this stretch during the winter. Once you exit the Notch there a few options available to summit. Drop over the southwest side of Longs to join the Homestretch (repell required). Another option exits left just below the Notch to finish the upper Kiener's. Descend the North Face via the Cable Route.
Near the ridge. |
Essential GearBe prepared for foul weather conditions any time of the year. This includes snow, rain, lightning, and hail. Again, this is a longer route with a lengthy aproach, so get an early start and be ready to descend in the darkness.
I know I've already said it, but conditions will determine what to bring. A rack may consist of ice screws (short and long), pickets, and a few nuts or cams for mixed sections. Bring a 60m rope to better facilitate simul-climbing and to make the repel off of the southwest side.
External Linkswww.mountainproject.com www.powderbuzz.com www.totalclimbing.com Images
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Longs Peak
