Poultry Emulsion, 5.10, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Barnyard Wall is the northwest facing wall of Sheepshead.  It towers above the conventional gully descent of Sheepshead and therefore allows one to easily add a few pitches more of climbing to any of the longer west facing Sheepshead routes.  Bruise the Rooster, 5.10-**, is a good starter of this group.  Its first pitch leaves something to be desired, but the bolted 2^nd pitch follows a cool arcing closed corner via excellent rock and neat movement. Poultry Emulsion, 5.10**, is the same way.  A so so first pitch followed up by one of the better bolted sport pitches in the Stronghold.  This 2nd pitch finish is sustained at the grade up fantastic steep rock via stemming a closed corner.

When descending (or ascending) the gully between Sheepshead and Muttonhead, the routes start, left to right, fairly immediate on descent with Animal Husbandry, 5.10*, and Bruise the Rooster running parallel to each other.  Further down the gully you find three longer routes, but still just two pitches apiece: Bantam of the Opera, 5.10+**, Great Pig in the Sky, 5.11-**, and Poultry Emulsion, 5.10**.

Route Description

1st Pitch- 125’-5.10-/ Mix of gear and bolts starting up a left facing corner.  The first half is interesting, steep terrain offering good stemming and side pull features.  It peters out to slab and positive features below the grade.  Fixed rap.

2nd Pitch- 105’-5.10/ A very good pitch, my favorite on the Barnyard Wall.  Well bolted but gear can be supplemented.  The climbing is typical until you hit a wall on the left that has stellar rock and precise sequencing.  Some of the better steep 5.10 bolted climbing in the stronghold. 

Descent

Rap the route with a single 70m rope.  The rap down the first pitch swings climbers left to make it to the ground.

Essential Gear

70m rope.  If competent at the grade, you can treat this as a sport route and just clip bolts, but supplemental gear is easily utilzied on the first pitch.  NW facing.