Dark Horse, 5.10-, 6 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Dark Horse is a better overall climbing experience than the ever-popular sport climb just to the right of it named Peacemaker.  It offers up five solid pitches showing off a variety of climbing.  The 1^st pitch gives you some classic corner climbing.  The 2^nd pitch would be considered the crux by less experienced climbers due to the squeeze chimney aspect of it.  However, this is a very textured squeeze chimney offering a ton of features to work with.  There is some fun stemming involved as well.  It is sustained, tall and scenic. The 3rd pitch is fully bolted but offers decent movement at the grade and lands you at a nice shade tree ledge.  The 4^th pitch is also well bolted with a few trad placement options.  It offers a crux at the grade involving a slab traverse rightward between features.  The 5^th and 6^th pitches are best combined and offer plenty of bolts as well.

Take the standard Sheepshead approach trail to the base of the middle of the formation.  Walk the trail south along the base of the wall and in short order you will be below a large right leaning/right facing corner.  Dark Horse starts through bolts out right and joins this corner after its lower roof.  Peacemaker is the next bolted line to the right.  

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 150’-5.9/ Both the local guide and MP.com have this pitch way longer than it actually is.  MP.com gives it a 5.9 rating which makes sense.  Five of Dark Horse’s pitches are solid fun and the first one is no exception.  Start out in a shallow right facing corner located between the massive right facing corner and the popular bolted Peacemaker route.  When it ends, traverse left into the main large corner system.  Climb it with good gear until it runs into Peacemaker.  Clip a few of its bolts and then traverse up a bolted ramp on the left.  Continue up an easy chimney and belay at a fixed station on a comfortable ledge. 

2^nd Pitch- 125’-5.10-/ Another pitch where the length is exaggerated considerably in both the guide and MP.com.  Most would consider this the crux pitch, particularly if they are not versed in squeeze chimneys.  Unlike several of the clean Rockfellow chimney/OW climbs, this one is more of a steep gully with tons of texture and features which can actually make it a bit awkward for chimneying up, but easier.  Climb through several bolts on easy ground to the steep and colorful trough above.  Chimney climb, facing the left wall and place a few pieces of gear as well as clipping bolts to its terminus above.  A physical and sustained mixed pitch (7 bolts) to a fixed belay at a stance. 

3^rd Pitch- 125’-5.10-/ From the belay, stem the closed seam up and angle right through several bolts.  Move back up and left following a heavily bolted pitch (11 bolts). You come to a short ledge, traverse left and pull the bulge for the crux of the climb through a bolt and continue up the bolted pitch.  Plenty of fun movement from start to finish.  Fixed belay, but best just to clip it as a directional and traverse left to a shade tree and sling it for the belay as that is below the next pitch.  The local guide refers to several other options vs pulling the bulge, but it is well protected and within the grade. 

4^th Pitch- 160’-5.10-/ MP.com gives this pitch a 5.10- and that makes sense.  This pitch would be more of a crux to a typical trad climber than pitch 2.   After pulling a relatively easy bolted bulge above the treed belay, traverse right up to a right facing shallow flake. Climb this bolted flake and make a technical slab traverse up and right (crux) through two bolts and follow bolts straight up from there.  It is best to traverse low below the first bolt protecting the traverse.  8 clips and a few gear options.  Fixed belay at a small ledge.   

5^th-6^th Pitches- 190’-5.10-/ Makes sense to combine these pitches.  The first 30’ is the crux of the pitch at the grade.  Make steep slab and face moves up to a bolted bulge with positive hands to help surmount.  Slab climb from there up interesting ground to a gear belay at a large boulder below the summit.  Mostly all bolted (13 clips). 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Take the standard Sheepshead northern gully descent (between Muttonhead and Sheepshead).  It is well traveled and marked.

Essential Gear

60m rope.  Single from #.1 to #3. Mix of 13 draws and shoulder length slings. True west facing route.