This climb is located on the E face of Trashcan Rock, the large formation at the Quail Springs picnic area. To get to the Quail Springs picnic area:
a) From the western entrance to Joshua Tree National Park: drive 2.6 (?) miles (a sign marking the turn is obvious). Take a R.
b) from the turnout to the Hidden Valley campground: go 3 miles towards Joshua Tree (the town). Take a L.
If space permits, park at the first parking area. The large formation directly in front of you is the E face of Trashcan Rock. The Haystack Cracks are to somewhat to the R of the largest part of the face, next to a large boulder.
This is a short, enjoyable crack climb- #43 on P. 32 of Falcan Guides' Rock Climbing Joshua Tree guide by Vogel.
To start the climb, climb onto the boulder. From here climb the crack. It is great hand jams towards the base (for a 6' male anyway), then widens slightly to hands/fists towards the top. Those with smaller hands might find lie-backing the crack easiest.
An anchor can be built atop Trashcan Rock by slinging the contact points between an enormous boulder & Trashcan Rock slightly to the R of inline with the Haystack cracks with some really long runners. There are also some larger cracks in a few less-than-perfect places that could be utilized as well with some cams, or possibly hexes.
There is also a .10c (the appropriately named Haystack Crack Right) to the left of Haystack Crack right, usually toproped- make sure the rope does not run over the sharp rocks slightly to the right side of the crack (from the viewpoint of a belayer atop Trashcan Rock looking down)- they are sharp!
To get down, scramble down Trashcan Rock (going towards the end opposite that by the entrance to the picnic area)- this entails 4th class downclimbing.
Medium to 2.5"- cams work best, but some hex placements possible. Bring some long runners for building an anchor up top.
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