This is the easiest route on Crestone Needle. This route description is also the "dry version (no snow or ice)" as opposed to this version which is a snow climbing description.

This version involves Class 3 or 4 climbing, and depending on your route choices, the climbing could involve considerable exposure. Be prepared for any conditions on this route, and do not attempt the route in wet conditions of any sort if you have no experience in climbing on the Sangre conglomerate rock, or if your experience with exposure is limited.

This description starts from the END of the 4WD road up to South Colony Lakes. If you are not aware of the notorious nature of this road, do your research before you proceed. You need to decide if you are walking the road or driving the road (both take the same amount of time). Despite recent changes and "improvements," the road remains one of the most challenging 4WD routes in the state. Experience in difficult four-wheeling is recommended, especially if you're taking a nice vehicle.

Be sure to read the GETTING THERE section on this page.

Additional recommended reading on the subject right here at SP: Crestone Peak and Needle Standard Routes Report

Additions, suggestions and changes will be added and welcome over the next week or so as this page is assembled.

Getting There

The following involved text was "stolen" from the main Crestone Needle page here at SP. Read it!

Crestone Needle is located in south central Colorado approximately 12 miles southwest of Westcliffe. There are several trailheads, the most popular being the South Colony Lakes trailhead on the east side of the range near Westcliffe. The reason it is so popular is because you can drive a 4WD vehicle within 2 miles of the mountain. There is another trailhead on the west side of the range called Cottonwood Creek located on private property. Cottonwood Creek Trail is poorly maintained below the timberline -- it's very narrow with lots of downed trees. (Bob Webster 8-17-03) See Red Tape section for more Cottonwood Creek instructions.

From Westcliffe, Colorado: Drive southwest on highway 69 about 4.5 miles to Colfax Lane (CO119) where there is a Forest Service sign. Turn right (south) and go another 5.5 miles until the road ends, then turn right (going west) on South Colony Road (Forest Service Road 120) for 1.5 miles where there is a fairly large parking lot on the right. 2WD vehicles can park here but recent improvements in the road (July 2006) allow 2WD vehicles to continue for another two miles to near the Rainbow Trail marker and the first creek crossing. After this, the next three miles are an extremely rough 4WD road (FR120). There is another parking lot at the end of the 4WD road.

Upon arrival at the end of the road, there is a huge steel gate. Pass through the gate to either side and follow the road and the well-worn trail about a mile to Lower South Colony lake. Just before arrival at the lower lake, the trail forks and a small wooden sign (photo) will greet you. The sign says, "Crestone Needle Standard Route," with an arrow pointing to the left. Take the left fork to begin the approach to Broken Hand Pass. Take the right fork if looking for a campsite or if heading for the upper lake to do the Ellingwood Arete.

SOUTH COLONY ROAD UPDATE: MARCH 28, 2006

The Forest Service has initiated a scoping process as a preliminary action for doing an environmental assessment for management changes in the South Colony Lakes Basin in the Sangre de Cristo range of southern Colorado.

The FS is proposing the following, and requesting public input.

1) close the South Colony jeep road to vehicle travel (except for emergency and administrative uses) approximately 2.5 miles below the current terminus of this road.
2) construct a parking area, toilet(s), and camping facilities near the proposed road closure point.
3) prohibit campfires within 1 mile of Lower and Upper South Colony Lakes.
4) restrict camping within 1 mile of Lower and Upper South Colony Lakes to "designated campsites" only.

The road closure point will be about 1/2 mile west of the junction with the Rainbow Trail and immediately before the first stream crossing. A parking lot, toilets, information kiosk, footbridge, and camping facilities would be constructed near the closure point, with hardened camping sites on both sides of the stream. Regarding the campfire ban, this is reflective of the overuse of firewood gathering near the lower lake. Most lower dead branches on live trees have been broken off, and campers are breaking off old bristlecone and subalpine fir branches from live trees. The lower parts of the Basin have more abundant firewood resources.

Backcountry use in the upper Basin is exceeding FS standards for "crowding" on every summer weekend and many weekdays. Restricting camping in the upper Basin to designated campsites will protect the resource, allow the most environmentally stable sites to be hardened and managed for sustained camping use, and will allow 50+less desirable sites tob e reclaimed and revegetated. The road continues to deteriorate with subsequent damage to vehicles attempting to drive the road. Also, re-routing of the road is not an option. From the 2-wheel drive parking lot at the very bottom, the existing road crosses 1.5 miles of private land before entering the national forest, open to the public under an apparent county easement. The landowners do not want public camping or parking on their property.

Further, there is a need to protect the $500,000 cash, and 40,000 volunteer hours, investment in trail restoration and hardened climbing routes in the upper Basin. The rebuilt routes are handling the current use level, but likely will deteriorate if recreation use continues to increase at the present rate. The Rocky Mountain Field Institute of Colorado springs (formerly the American Mountain Foundation) is partnering with the University of Colorado in a study to determine the appropriate recreation use level in the Basin thatis most compatible with protection of the resource and maintaining an acceptable social experience (meaning you didn't have a Grays/Torreys "mob" experience).

There is some discussion of a fee system for the area. However, that would be a separate environmental assessment. The FS is not asking for comments on fees at this time.

Downside of the proposed changes, per the FS, is that removing easy vehicle access may not solve the problems of too many persons in the upper Basin (note that only about 15% of users are motorized recreationists, with the remainder being primarily 14er climbers). Making east side access more difficult may cause more use from the west side, where the trails are mostly primitive in nature and there are private land concerns.

CMC Conservation expects to endorse the four basic FS proposals as they are an attempt to preserve the resource while still allowing for good access by the climbing community. However, we also would like to solicit comments from CMC leaders and other activists. We may ask for individual comments when a proposed environmental assessment is released by the FS later this year. Please send any thoughts you may have to me, as I will be writing the CMC comments, as requested by Vera Smith, our Conservation Director, since I do most of the Club's access work.

Thanks very much.

Steve Bonowski, Sr. Policy Advisor
CMC Conservation Department

AS OF JUNE 27, 2007, THE ROAD IS STILL OPEN TO THE UPPER 4-WHEEL DRIVE TRAILHEAD. THE FOREST SERVICE IN WESTCLIFFE REPORTS THAT THERE IS NOT A DEFINITE DATE FOR CLOSING THE ROAD, BUT THAT PLANS ARE IN THE WORKS. THE ROAD SHOULD BE OPEN ALL SUMMER OF 2007.

Route Description

Click on Photo and Read Caption!

Broken Hand Pass Approach

Broken Hand Pass

From the end of the South Colony 4WD jeep road from hell, follow the road as it heads west, then contours north on Broken Hand Peak's east slopes. The road reduces to a wide and worn trail near South Colony Lake as it heads west. The well constructed trail climbs via switchbacks through the talus and boulders on Broken Hand's north slopes and winds its way into the couloir leading to Broken Hand Pass. The ascent to the pass is very direct and steep, and borders on Class 3 in difficulty.

At the narrow saddle, hang a sharp right on a climber's trail that contours northwest on the southwest side of the Needle's complex southeast ridge. Stay on the trail as it climbs to around 13,300 feet. Be wary of side trails that may be dead ends and lead you off route.

East Couloir

The trail will soon deposit you into the famous East Couloir, known for its solid rock climbing. Note some features in your surroundings. It is important that you return to this spot on your descent! (See NOTES SECTION below).

East Couloir Climbing

Climb up the couloir (Class 3). About half way up, the climbing gets very steep and you'll get channeled into some narrow spots that make the climbing challenging but fun. If you avoid the narrow spots, be advised the climbing could become exposed Class 4 climbing. Difficulties relent further up and climbing is good until you just about run out of mountain, where some loose talus may be encountered in a more level, shallow spot.

East Couloir Climbing

An option to avoid the narrow spots or extended exposure is to angle left into the West Couloir, but this access to the other route also involves a steep section, although the time you are exposed is much less than in the East Couloir. As the East Couloir gets steep, look to your left for an entrance to the West Couloir perched above a perpendicular wall. You might see some cairns poised on top of this wall. Climb directly up this wall (Class 4) via a steep (straight up) angling traverse on good steps and excellent holds. Exposure is brief but considerable during this move. Turn right and climb up the West Couloir (Class 2 and 3) to where it joins the East Couloir just before you run out of mountain. Some loose material has collected at the top of the couloirs in a somewhat spacious area.

Hang a hard left and climb northwest (Class 3) to the top, which is one of Colorado's most exhillerating summits.

Return the same route, and make every effort to retrace your exact steps! If you think you might go up the East Couloir and descend the West Couloir, see the next section below.

ROUND TRIP MILEAGE (From the end of the 4WD road): 6 miles
GAIN (From the end of the 4WD drive road): 2,843 feet

Route Map Overview

Additional Notes on the Descent and West Couloir

Be sure to note where you enter and exit the East Couloir. Folks often get disoriented and continue climbing down the couloir and miss this vital exit point and get into trouble.

It is also possible to exit the couloir too early. If you do this and end up at a dead end, look around below you for signs of the correct route. Return to the couloir and climb down to the proper exit point.

It's easy to get sidetracked during the descent of this route once you are out of the couloir. Note landmarks, cairns and surroundings on your way up to avoid confusion on your way down.

Top of the Wall

Gerry Roach in his guidebook "Colorado's Fourteeners" states there are several places where the West Couloir can be accessed from the East Couloir. This route description only addresses one of those options, and it involves an exposed ascent or descent of a Class 4 rock wall about 40 feet high. A slip off of this solid but exposed route option would result in a disasterous tumble down the east couloir. Do not attempt this option in wet conditions or if you are not experienced in exposed Class 4 scrambling.

Descent of the West Couloir is a simple scrambling matter, mostly Class 2. The couloir is not as steep and therefore has collected more loose rubble, so move with appropriate care while in this couloir. Just remember that the exit involves an exposed down climb of a Class 4 wall into the Eastern Couloir. The climb is short and solid, but exposure is very striking for most folks. If anyone in your group has exposure issues (well, they shouldn't be on the mountain) or are not confident in Class 4 climbing, do not descend the West Couloir.

There is NO EXIT out of the West Couloir further down. The West Couloir terminates in hazardous territory!

Be sure to read this report: Crestone Peak and Needle Standard Routes Report

Essential Gear

Hiking boots with excellent tread are a must.

There is not much loose rock on this mountain, but a helmet is still a good idea to prevent injury in a minor slip.

Gloves are a good idea for cold conditions, but you're better off using your bare hands as much as possible.

Standard dayhike gear, from your vehicle or camp, will do nicely, which means being prepared for any kind of weather, which is of paramount importance on this route.

Images