Shake N Bake, 5.10, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

One of the few quintessential off-width climbs in Cochise is Shake N Bake. It is located on the southeast face of the Stronghold Dome, the wall to climber’s right of the popular Beeline route.  There are several right leaning wide cracks on the southeastern toe of the Stronghold Dome.  Shake N Bake is the cleanest (#4’s, 5’s and 6’s) wide line starting on the shared ramp below an obvious wide right-facing corner with a roof.  Shake N Bake is the next crack to the left of this corner. 

The first pitch is the goods (5.10) and I ran it out past 200’ (linked first two pitches) to where the route exits the arching wide crack for large chicken heads on the upper face.  However, there is a more comfortable belay with a stance in a shallow alcove atop the 100’ crux (start) section.  The third pitch is mostly just climbing and slinging significant chicken heads for another 100’+ to the top.  The only fixed gear on this route is an old rusted (2020) hanger and bolt on the third pitch. 

Cut off north of the main trail up to the Rockfellow Group for the Stronghold Dome as you would for Beeline.  Contour around the east side of the dome mantling up onto several large boulders so you can access a short crack at the north end of a ramp-ledge that runs below the wide cracks above.  Scramble up this 5^th class crack and walk back left to the base of the route.

Route Description

1st/2nd Pitches- 215’-5.10/ With a 70m rope you can reach a large chicken head (belay) exit out of the wide crack.  The first 100’ is the crux.  Turning around once shortly after starting and then back to left side in seemed to be the ticket.  Knees, heal toe, arm bars, fist jams and even an occasional hand jam allow you to cowboy up this outstanding off-width for the area.  Rode my left knee quite a bit and found plenty of fists as well.  No chicken wings.  A single #6, #5 and two #4's worked well to the alcove where you can build a comfortable belay with small to medium gear.  If you extend the lead to almost a full 70m rope length you can reach the start of the more benign 3rd pitch leading out of the crack via large chicken heads.

3^rd Pitch-   115’-5.6/ Follow the large chicken heads past an old hanger (2020) and up to the summit of Stronghold Dome.

Descent

Either 5th class it back south to the top of the three single rope rap descent used for the Beeline group, or walk north to the summit, descend to the col and scramble down south to a slung boulder just 30' west of the final fixed chain rap for the beforementioned descent.  A 70m single makes it down from there.

Essential Gear

Single to #6, double #4’s, 70m rope if you want to do it in two pitches.  Shoulder length slings. Helmet will get in the way at the crux.  Receives morning to early afternoon sun.  The two #4’s serve you the best during the crux section.  The #5 can be bumped a bit.  The #6 has a place.  A few small pieces are needed in the alcove where you can build a belay or run it out to sling a large chicken head another 100’ up.