Spanning a large area northwest of Lake City and northeast of Ouray, The Uncompahgre Wilderness, formerly named the Big Blue Wilderness, was created in 1980 and expanded in 1993 with the addition of American Flats near Engineer Pass on its southern end. By designating 102,700 acres as wilderness, we are fortunate to have continued preservation of this unique area as well as public access to it. It is home to two very well-known Fourteeners: Uncompahgre Peak, the highest peak in the San Juan Range, and Wetterhorn Peak, a classic scramble by its easiest route. This wilderness boasts 30 ranked peaks (having at least 300' of rise) over 13,000'. The vast treasures one can find in this wilderness are somewhat reserved for the esoteric when comparing to the high traffic one will encounter on these two highest peaks.

NW ridge of Wetterhorn Peak 14,015'
Routes up the Uncompahgre Wilderness' summits range from gentle grassy slopes to classic rock climbs to precariously loose and exposed scrambles. Many of the peaks are a maze to figure out and sometimes have a only a single viable route. Volcanic tuff formations dominate the scenery in a spectacular display along the West and Middle Fork Drainages, including Precipice Peak, Dunsinane, and Turret Ridge (just north of the wilderness boundary). Often a test-piece for CMC BMS graduation, Coxcomb Peak (YDS 5.3) is perhaps the third most famous peak in the area. A much harder peak by its easiest route, and seeing far fewer ascents, Chimney Rock, requires four pitches on its South Chimney (YDS 5.6). Airy scrambles on questionable rock such as 13,222, "El Punto", and "Heisshorn" are high on the list of culprits for San Juan rock's bad reputation. It is important to be aware of rock fall hazards, keeping reasonable distance between yourself and those above, and wearing a helmet for some of these peaks is not a bad idea.

Scrambling on "Heisshorn"
Despite the proximity to very popular trailheads, and the very busy Cinnamon and Engineer passes, one is likely to experience solitude when venturing to most summits below 14,000'. Aside from trails, evidence of other visitors is scant. There is some evidence of mining, but this pales in comparison to other nearby areas in the San Juan Range. Nevertheless, the area is getting more attention as more people are engaging in 13er bagging. There are many ways to spend many a weekend bagging these interesting peaks. Many choose to backpack and set up a base camp while any of these peaks can be done as day hikes (often combining several peaks in a day). Car camping is possible at several trailheads in the area (see the Mountains and Rocks Page for trailheads and camping info). A great resource for some of the peaks mentioned above is Colorado Scrambles.

Coxcomb Peak 13,656' from West Fork Trail

Beta Photos for Chimney Rock:

From cruzit's Chimney Rock page:
"Chimney Rock has dangers that make this peak a solid grade III climb. These dangers include extreme rock fall, poor rock quality, and long unprotectable pitches (run-outs). And....all of these factors exist at the same time on almost every pitch. In addition, the approach includes a steep bushwhack through interminable downfall and loose, unprotectable class 4 and 5 which much be negotiated just to reach the base of the tower. Chimney Rock is climbable, but take heart and take care. It is not for the timid or the inexperienced. But for the ones who are looking for a true adventure climbing challenge..." Read on

Alpine Sunflowers near Wetterhorn Peak

Interactive Google Map of Uncompahgre Wilderness Peaks

Peak List

CO Rank	Name	Elevation	Quad	Rise	Latitude	Longitude	Class
6	Uncompahgre Peak	14,309'	Uncompahgre Peak	4,242'	38.0716	-107.4621	2
49	Wetterhorn Peak	14,015'	Wetterhorn Peak	1,635'	38.0606	-107.5107	3
139	Silver Mountain	13,714'	Uncompahgre Peak	1,054'	38.1067	-107.4496	2
159	13681	13,681'	Uncompahgre Peak	501'	38.1204	-107.4576	2
171	Coxcomb Peak	13,656'	Wetterhorn Peak	796'	38.0801	-107.5335	5.3
175	Redcliff	13,642'	Wetterhorn Peak	502'	38.0871	-107.5331	2
193	Matterhorn Peak	13,590'	Uncompahgre Peak	570'	38.0651	-107.4960	2
S	"Big Blue Peak"	13,467'	Uncompahgre Peak	287'	38.0946	-107.4504
311	"Heisshorn"	13,411'	Wetterhorn Peak	471'	38.0780	-107.5117	3
338	13377	13,377'	Wetterhorn Peak	357'	38.0717	-107.5149	2
360	13340	13,340'	Uncompahgre Peak	745'	38.0986	-107.4961	2
400	13300	13,300'	Wetterhorn Peak	440'	38.0571	-107.5223	2
402	"El Punto"	13,300'	Uncompahgre Peak	320'	38.0898	-107.4993	3
425	Wildhorse Peak	13,266'	Wetterhorn Peak	966'	38.0133	-107.5775	2
432	Darley Mountain	13,260'	Handies Peak	520'	37.9827	-107.5881	2
436	Broken Hill	13,256'	Uncompahgre Peak	798'	38.0430	-107.4718	2
446	"Fortress Peak"	13,241'	Wetterhorn Peak	461'	38.0978	-107.5302
460	13222	13,222'	Uncompahgre Peak	322'	38.1058	-107.4902	4
480	13206	13,206'	Wetterhorn Peak	306'	38.0742	-107.5248	2
490	13201	13,201'	Wetterhorn Peak	661'	38.0389	-107.5250	2
507	Sheep Mountain	13,168'	Sheep Mountain	592'	38.1588	-107.4659
516	13158	13,158'	Uncompahgre Peak	378'	38.0542	-107.4381	2
530	Precipice Peak	13,144'	Wetterhorn Peak	484'	38.1194	-107.5351	2+
559	Cow Benchmark	13,111'	Wetterhorn Peak	531'	38.0201	-107.6211
564	13106	13,106'	Uncompahgre Peak	726'	38.0711	-107.4209	2
569	13100	13,100'	Sheep Mountain	480'	38.1459	-107.4674
575	13091	13,091'	Uncompahgre Peak	591'	38.0726	-107.3878	2
593	Blackwall Mountain	13,073'	Wetterhorn Peak	453'	38.0287	-107.5647	2
608	13051	13,051'	Uncompahgre Peak	351'	38.1059	-107.4298
629	13016	13,016'	Uncompahgre Peak	676'	38.1244	-107.4148
647	"U 4"	12,986'	Wetterhorn Peak	486'	38.0870	-107.5592
653	12975	12,975'	Wetterhorn Peak	315'	38.0287	-107.5367	2
656	"Dragons Back"	12,968'	Wetterhorn Peak	428'	38.0188	-107.5634	4
694	Dolly Varden Mountain	12,932'	Handies Peak	312'	37.9922	-107.5428
705	12917	12,917'	Courthouse Mountain	617'	38.1338	-107.5022
S	12798	12,798'	Courthouse Mountain	298'	38.1442	-107.5067	5.4
824	Dunsinane Mountain	12,742'	Courthouse Mountain	602'	38.1297	-107.5390
831	12739	12,739'	Wetterhorn Peak	479'	38.0346	-107.6220
1046	12441	12,441'	Wetterhorn Peak	501'	38.0543	-107.6100
	Bighorn Ridge	12,396'	Wetterhorn Peak	216'	38.0407	-107.5927
	Cascade Mountain	12,368'	Ouray	268'	38.0377	-107.6340
1169	12255	12,255'	Lake City	475'	38.1050	-107.3653
1221	Courthouse Mountain	12,152'	Courthouse Mountain	1,172'	38.1350	-107.5739	2+
1223	12148	12,148'	Wetterhorn Peak	448'	38.0688	-107.5669
S	11860	11,860'	Courthouse Mountain	280'	38.1700	-107.5021
1418	Chimney Rock	11,781'	Courthouse Mountain	401'	38.1463	-107.5695	5.6
1426	11773	11,773'	Sheep Mountain	473'	38.1701	-107.4153
1731	11110	11,110'	Alpine Plateau	370'	38.1327	-107.3240
S	10875	10,875'	Courthouse Mountain	295'	38.1900	-107.5029
2084	10393	10,393'	Alpine Plateau	333'	38.1519	-107.3241
	Sneva Mountain	9,820'	Courthouse Mountain	160'	38.1299	-107.6078

Uncompahgre Peak - 14,309'	Wetterhorn Peak - 14,015'	Silver Mountain - 13,714'	13681 - 13,681’
Coxcomb Peak - 13,656'	Redcliff - 13,642'	Matterhorn Peak - 13,590'	"Big Blue Peak" - 13,467'
"Heisshorn "- 13,411'	13377 - 13,377'	13340 - 13,340'	13300 - 13,300'
"El Punto" - 13,300'	Wildhorse Peak - 13,266'	Darley Mountain - 13,260'	Broken Hill - 13,256'
"Fortress Peak" - 13,241'	13222 - 13,222'	13206 - 13,206'	13201 - 13,201'
13158 - 13,158'	Precipice Peak - 13,144'	Cow Benchmark - 13,111'	13106 - 13,106'
13091 - 13,091'	Blackwall Mountain - 13,073'	13051 - 13,051'	13016 - 13,016'
"U 4" - 12,986'	12975 - 12,975'	"Dragons Back" - 12,968'	Dunsinane Mountain - 12,742'
12739 - 12,739'	12441 - 12,441'	Courthouse Mountain - 12,152'	Chimney Rock - 11,781'