This climb is located on the W face of Trashcan Rock, the large formation at the Quail Springs picnic area. To get to the Quail Springs picnic area:
a) From the western entrance to Joshua Tree National Park: drive 2.6 (?) miles (a sign marking the turn is obvious). Take a R.
b) from the turnout to the Hidden Valley campground: go 3 miles towards Joshua Tree (the town). Take a L.
Go past the first set of parking spots around the curve to those by the outhouse. Park here. This is the W face of Trashcan Rock.
This enjoyable route can be reached by either a L-hand or R-hand variation. The L-hand side is a short crack system, while the R is a lieback.
The crux of the climb is the crossover from either the L-hand or R-hand variation. The difficulty from either side is approximately the same: 5.4 face climbing. The R-rating also comes from this, as until the crack system leading upwards is gained (immediately past this crux- about 15 ft above ground), there is no protection available- think of it like a high boulder problem to gain the route. Once in the crack, just follow it upwards. You will run right into a ramp leading to the R. This ramp is easy but very exposed.
Walk off Trashcan Rock- head down towards the end of the rock across from the outhouse. This entails 4th class downclimbing.
Some nuts & a few small to medium sized cams for the lower crack, & a large piece or two (2.5- 3") for the ramp section leading to the top of the climb. Large amounts of webbing/accessory cord can be used in conjunction with some locking 'biners to construct an anchor/rappel station by slinging gaps underneath a large boulder at the top of Trashcan Rock
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