OverviewYuzhu Feng is East Kunlun Range's highest Peak. It is close the city of Golmud, which has daily rail service. Its north and south base camps are less than 10 km from the paved, busy Qinghai-Tibet highway, currently the main overland route into Tibet from China. Jeeps, trucks, even minivans can make it to the basecamps.
Yuzhu Feng's south slope route is an easy glacier walk with a gain of only 1500 m; its north slope route involves more tricky glacier travel with steeper gradients and numerous crevasses. The north base camp elevation is 4300 m, south base camp elevation is 4800 m.
Because of its convenient approach and the easy south slope, Yuzhu Feng has become Chinese mountaineers' beginner peak. However, in May 2000 5 people died in a storm on Yuzhu Feng.
Getting ThereTravel to Golmud: There is one express train daily from Lanzhou, Gansu province, which takes 16 hours to arrive in Golmud. The train also passes Xining, Qinghai province (starting from Xining cuts the time by 4 hours). Both Lanzhou and Xining are major cities with air service, Lanzhou is bigger and has more service.
Travel to base camp: Take Qinghai-Tibet highway south of Golmud for 4 hours.
There is a lot of bus traffic on Qinghai-Tibet highway, so catching a ride both ways is fairly easy.
Red TapeClimbers are required to pay a fee to China Qinghai Mountaineering Association and obtain a permit. According to climberinfo.com the royalty cost for climbing a 6000-6999 m peak in China is $1350 for up to 20 climbers.
LodgingGolmud Hotel/Hostel is the only guesthouse that accepts foreigners in Golmud. Hostel costs about $4/person.
When To ClimbMay to September. It is often windy in May. The rainy season is July-August, it might be better to avoid this period. Therefore the optimal period is June or August-September.
Adopt this page!This page's current maintainer is willing to let anyone who is more familiar with this peak to adopt the page. If interested please contact gordonye.
- Yuzhu Feng
- chinese 2002 north face ascent
all in chinese, but good pics and a real topographic map