|Lat/Lon:||45.38538°N / 7.29954°E|
|Activities:||Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing|
|Season:||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Elevation:||6263 ft / 1909 m|
The Bec di Roci Ruta (Southern Graie Alps) is a beautiful and slender tower of gray gneiss-granite in Val Grande di Lanzo (Piedmont), a valley located in the Torino province. The tower is located above the hamlet of Alboni, near the village of Pialpetta, and surrounded by the green and luxuriant coniferous forests covering the southern flanks of the Val Grande. The place is superb, a great balcony open to the valley and the wild mountains surrounding it. The climb is fine and very satisfying on excellent rock with slabs and cracks, and ranges from technical walls on quartz crystals to cracks and dihedrals, where however climbing requires an excellent use of the feet.
The face was explored for the first time in 1964 by the famous climber Giampiero Motti who climbed a first not difficult route. In the years immediately following a couple of routes were opened by other famous mountaineers, Alberto Re and his companion in 1967 and later Ugo Manera, who climbed two routes crack style. After these three ascents the face was forgotten until the 1990s. The other routes realized on the walls of Bec di Roci Ruta are more recent history (early Nineties) especially by Giancarlo Grassi, Aldo Morittu and Elio Bonfanti. Bonfanti in addition to opening some new routes in recent years, together with the brothers Matteo and Luca Enrico has recently carried out a work to enhance the walls of the Bec.
From Torino take the exit Borgaro Venaria, then follow the road towards Valli di Lanzo reaching Lanzo Torinese. From here take the road entering the Valle di Lanzo and at the fork in Ceres take the right branch continuing to Cantoira, Chialamberto and Pialpetta. Pass the village of Pialpetta, then leave the main road and turn right towards Rivotti-Alboni. At the next crossroads turn right up to Alboni where you park near a fountain.
From the beautiful hamlet of Alboni, take the path that starts near the fountain and when you reach the first house, ignore the path 322 that proceeds to the Unghiasse lakes, going up to the left of the house, then heading to the right with a slightly flat stretch. Still uphill you reach in about 10 minutes the dirt road that passes under the Bec di Roci Ruta. Follow the road to the right reaching the base of the structure, where the first routes on the South wall are found. An uphill path to the left leads to the routes on the South West wall. Half an hour from Alboni.
- Il Paradiso è di pochi 6b 160 m
The start of the route is located on a buttress - detached from the structure - (the route is marked by a green arrow and bolts).
L1 - 6b Climb the crack (6a) to the end, a small dihedral, then overcome the delicate upper wall (6b) with quartz crystals. Cross the terrace and downclimb briefly to the stance.
L2 - 6a+ Climb a dihedral-crack to a terrace, then a crack and an overhanging dihedral.
L3 - 6a Some blocks, then a wide dihedral to a terrace. Traverse the terrace to the right to reach the stance.
L4 - 6a A thin crack, then some grassy steps to an optional stop. Climb a wall, then a crack on the right.
L5 - 5c Climb another wall, then to the right reach a small ridge. Climb it and a rift to the stance
L6 - 6a More easily reach an optional belay under the summit cusp, then after an exposed move climb the beautiful final slab to the summit
Descent: abseiling the route
From left to right:
- Una favola per Dinda 6c+, 6b obbl. 160 m - 4 pitches
- Base Jump 6c, 6a+ obbl., 70 m - 2 pitches
- Il tempo di Mudjakewis 6c, 6b obbl. 120 m - 4 pitches
- Così non fan tutti 6c/A0, 200 m - Usually it's climbed only the first pitch, 25 m, which is equipped, while the other pitches are not equipped
- Soli nel sole 6a+, 6a obbl. 130 m - 5 pitches
No fees no permits required
The best season to climb is from middle March to middle November
Different opportunities of accomodation in the various villages of Valle di Lanzo.
"Val Grande in verticale" - Marco Blatto, Elio Bonfanti, Luca Enrico, Matteo Enrico