In the Eastern part of Mont Blanc group, East of Grandes Joresses, on the main ridge between Italy and France, this smart and mighty mountain divides
on the left side the Aiguille de Leschaux, on the right side the Petites Jorasses
Three different approaches :
from Italy - Val Ferret - Bivacco di Freboudze (2360m) - Bivacco Gervasutti (2870m)
to get it you must start walking from Lavachey, cross the Dora river, get the Lavachey
and follow a small track that leads you to the Bivacco di Freboudze (2360M) - 2 hours - passages of 2° UIAA (PD)
Then, along tracks toward NW, get the Freboudze glacier.
Cross under the eastern part of it (danger of ice falls) and pass to the left of a rocky ridge coming down.
Here you must find the best way to reach the rocky isle of the Bivacco (less than 2 hours from Bivacco di Freboudze)
from Italy - Val Ferret - Rifugio Dalmazzi al Triolet (2360m)
The access is normally done from Val Ferret (Courmayeur, first valley on the right), using the road till about Arnouva (after Lavachey)
and with a confortable walk less more then 2h long you can reach the Rifugio Dalmazzi al Triolet (~ 2600 m)
Once it was a small and not always comfortable hut, now a modern costruction (not so fine ..) can give you more comforts.
from France - Chamonix-Montenvers - Refuge de Leschaux (2450m)
along the tracks on the Mer de Glace (same as for Rif. du Requin) till it turns to right.
Now you have to cross it (red marks) till the lateral moraine to get the Glacier de Leschaux.
Cross the medial moraine and follow directly on the glacier.
The Refuge is on the east margin. (3 hours from Montenvers)
from Freboudze side (Italy) : Bivacco Freboudze and Bivacco Gervasutti
from Triolet side (Italy) : Rifugio Dalmazzi
from Leschaux side (France) : Refuge de Leschaux
all necessary logistic info can be found in Mont Blanc group page