Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Lat/Lon: 45.88720°N / 7.00670°E
Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing
Season: Summer
Elevation: 12332 ft / 3759 m


- Aiguille de Leschaux - 3.759m -

In the Eastern part of Mont Blanc group, East of Grandes Joresses, on the main ridge between Italy and France, this smart and mighty mountain divides

  • the Glacier de Leschaux (France),
  • the Glacier de Freboudze (Italy) and
  • the Glacier de Triolet (Italy)
    Its scructure is quite simple : 2 walls on the italian side and 1 wall on the french one.

    on the left side the Aiguille de Leschaux, on the right side the Petites Jorasses


    The north wall of Aiguille de Leschaux

    Triolet side

  • from Freboudze side it looks like a "normal mountain" ... a small rock bulwark and a small glacier leading almost to the summit
  • from Triolet side it looks very severe, a very steep ice slope leads to a vertical and high rock wall
  • from Leschaux side a fine wall of slabs
    This is the hub where Greuvetta ridge starts toward East

    Getting There

    Three different approaches :

    from Italy - Val Ferret - Bivacco di Freboudze (2360m) - Bivacco Gervasutti (2870m)
    to get it you must start walking from Lavachey, cross the Dora river, get the Lavachey
    and follow a small track that leads you to the Bivacco di Freboudze (2360M) - 2 hours - passages of 2° UIAA (PD)
    Then, along tracks toward NW, get the Freboudze glacier.
    Cross under the eastern part of it (danger of ice falls) and pass to the left of a rocky ridge coming down.
    Here you must find the best way to reach the rocky isle of the Bivacco (less than 2 hours from Bivacco di Freboudze)

    from Italy - Val Ferret - Rifugio Dalmazzi al Triolet (2360m)
    The access is normally done from Val Ferret (Courmayeur, first valley on the right), using the road till about Arnouva (after Lavachey)
    and with a confortable walk less more then 2h long you can reach the Rifugio Dalmazzi al Triolet (~ 2600 m)
    Once it was a small and not always comfortable hut, now a modern costruction (not so fine ..) can give you more comforts.

    from France - Chamonix-Montenvers - Refuge de Leschaux (2450m)
    along the tracks on the Mer de Glace (same as for Rif. du Requin) till it turns to right.
    Now you have to cross it (red marks) till the lateral moraine to get the Glacier de Leschaux.
    Cross the medial moraine and follow directly on the glacier.
    The Refuge is on the east margin. (3 hours from Montenvers)


    The bivouac Gervasutti

    the new Bivouac Gervasutti

    Routes ovierview

    from Freboudze side (Italy) : Bivacco Freboudze and Bivacco Gervasutti

  • SE side (normal route from Rif. Gervasutti) - AD
  • SW ridge (fron Col dee Petites Jorasses) - 240 m - AD sup - D
  • East ridge (from Biv. Freboudze) - PD/PD+ - useful with good snow at the beginning of summer



    from Triolet side (Italy) : Rifugio Dalmazzi

  • from Col de Leschaux and the NW ridge (Rey-Rivetti) - 350 m - D
  • NE wall and NW ridge (Boccalatte) - 800 m - TD (forgotten)
  • NE wall (Cassin) - 800 m - ED inf


    from Leschaux side (France) : Refuge de Leschaux

  • W wall - normal french route - 700 m - D
  • W wall (Azema-Frassinet) - 700 m - TD + A1
  • W wall and NW ridge - AD till the ridge then D

    some pics of the NW ridge

    When To Climb


    Logistic Info

    all necessary logistic info can be found in Mont Blanc group page