In the Eastern part of Mont Blanc group, East of Grandes Jorasses, on the main ridge between Italy and France, this smart and mighty mountain divides:
the Glacier de Leschaux (France),
the Glacier de Freboudze (Italy) and
the Glacier de Triolet (Italy) Its scructure is quite simple : 2 walls on the italian side and 1 wall on the french one.
on the left side the Aiguille de Leschaux, on the right side the Petites Jorasses
from Freboudze side it looks like a "normal mountain" ... a small rock bulwark and a small glacier leading almost to the summit
from Triolet side it looks very severe, a very steep ice slope leads to a vertical and high rock wall
from Leschaux side a fine wall of slabs This is the hub where Greuvetta ridge starts toward East
Three different approaches:
from Italy - Val Ferret - Bivacco di Freboudze (2.360m) - Bivacco Gervasutti (2.870m) to get it you must start walking from Lavachey, cross the Dora river, get the Lavachey and follow a small track that leads you to the Bivacco di Freboudze (2.360m) - 2 hours - passages of 2° UIAA (PD) Then, along tracks toward NW, get the Freboudze glacier. Cross under the eastern part of it (danger of ice falls) and pass to the left of a rocky ridge coming down. Here you must find the best way to reach the rocky isle of the Bivacco (less than 2 hours from Bivacco di Freboudze).
from Italy - Val Ferret - Rifugio Dalmazzi al Triolet (2.360m) The access is normally done from Val Ferret (Courmayeur, first valley on the right), using the road till about Arnouva (after Lavachey) and with a confortable walk less more then 2h long you can reach the Rifugio Dalmazzi al Triolet (~2.600 m) Once it was a small and not always comfortable hut, now a modern costruction (not so fine ..) can give you more comforts.
from France - Chamonix-Montenvers - Refuge de Leschaux (2.450m) along the tracks on the Mer de Glace (same as for Rif. du Requin) till it turns to right. Now you have to cross it (red marks) till the lateral moraine to get the Glacier de Leschaux. Cross the medial moraine and follow directly on the glacier. The Refuge is on the east margin. (3 hours from Montenvers).
from Freboudze side (Italy): Bivacco Freboudze and Bivacco Gervasutti
SE side (normal route from Rif. Gervasutti) - AD.
SW ridge (fron Col dee Petites Jorasses) - 240 m - AD sup - D.
East ridge (from Biv. Freboudze) - PD/PD+ - useful with good snow at the beginning of summer.
from Triolet side (Italy): Rifugio Dalmazzi
from Col de Leschaux and the NW ridge (Rey-Rivetti) - 350 m - D.
NE wall and NW ridge (Boccalatte) - 800 m - TD (forgotten).
"Guida delle Alpi Occidentali", di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
"Guida dei Monti d'Italia-Monte Bianco" (Vol. II°) di R. Chabod, L. Grivel, S. Saglio, G. Buscaini-Club Alpino Italiano/Turing Club Italiano, 1968 (in Italian).
"I Rifugi della Valle d'Aosta" di Stefano Ardito, Ed. Guide iter, Febbraio 2003.
"A piedi in Valle d'Aosta" (Vol. 1), di Stefano Ardito, Ed. Guide iter, Giugno 2003.
"80 itinerari di Escursionismo Alpinismo e Sci Alpinismo in Valle d'Aosta", di Osvaldo Cardellina, Ed. Musumeci, Giugno 1977 (in Italian); seconda Ed. Luglio 1981; terza Ed. Luglio 1984; (in French), prima Ed. Febbraio 1978; seconda Ed. Marzo 1980.
Kompass "Massiccio del Monte Bianco Valle d'Aosta Sentieri e Rifugi" Carta turistica 1:50.000.
I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Massiccio del Monte Bianco" (n°4), Torino, 1998 1:50.000.
I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Monte Bianco-Courmayeur-Chamonix-La Thuile" (n°107), 1:25.000.
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