Aiguille de Leschaux

Aiguille de Leschaux

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 45.88720°N / 7.00670°E
Activities Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 12332 ft / 3759 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

 

In the Eastern part of Mont Blanc group, East of Grandes Jorasses, on the main ridge between Italy and France, this smart and mighty mountain divides:

  • the Glacier de Leschaux (France),
  • the Glacier de Freboudze (Italy) and
  • the Glacier de Triolet (Italy) Its scructure is quite simple : 2 walls on the italian side and 1 wall on the french one.

    on the left side the Aiguille de Leschaux, on the right side the Petites Jorasses

    Triolet side

  • from Freboudze side it looks like a "normal mountain" ... a small rock bulwark and a small glacier leading almost to the summit
  • from Triolet side it looks very severe, a very steep ice slope leads to a vertical and high rock wall
  • from Leschaux side a fine wall of slabs This is the hub where Greuvetta ridge starts toward East

Getting There

Three different approaches:

from Italy - Val Ferret - Bivacco di Freboudze (2.360m) - Bivacco Gervasutti (2.870m) to get it you must start walking from Lavachey, cross the Dora river, get the Lavachey and follow a small track that leads you to the Bivacco di Freboudze (2.360m) - 2 hours - passages of 2° UIAA (PD) Then, along tracks toward NW, get the Freboudze glacier. Cross under the eastern part of it (danger of ice falls) and pass to the left of a rocky ridge coming down. Here you must find the best way to reach the rocky isle of the Bivacco (less than 2 hours from Bivacco di Freboudze).

from Italy - Val Ferret - Rifugio Dalmazzi al Triolet (2.360m) The access is normally done from Val Ferret (Courmayeur, first valley on the right), using the road till about Arnouva (after Lavachey) and with a confortable walk less more then 2h long you can reach the Rifugio Dalmazzi al Triolet (~2.600 m) Once it was a small and not always comfortable hut, now a modern costruction (not so fine ..) can give you more comforts.

from France - Chamonix-Montenvers - Refuge de Leschaux (2.450m) along the tracks on the Mer de Glace (same as for Rif. du Requin) till it turns to right. Now you have to cross it (red marks) till the lateral moraine to get the Glacier de Leschaux. Cross the medial moraine and follow directly on the glacier. The Refuge is on the east margin. (3 hours from Montenvers).

Routes overview

from Freboudze side (Italy): Bivacco Freboudze and Bivacco Gervasutti

  • SE side (normal route from Rif. Gervasutti) - AD.
  • SW ridge (fron Col dee Petites Jorasses) - 240 m - AD sup - D.
  • East ridge (from Biv. Freboudze) - PD/PD+ - useful with good snow at the beginning of summer.

from Triolet side (Italy): Rifugio Dalmazzi

  • from Col de Leschaux and the NW ridge (Rey-Rivetti) - 350 m - D.
  • NE wall and NW ridge (Boccalatte) - 800 m - TD (forgotten).
  • NE wall (Cassin) - 800 m - ED inf.

from Leschaux side (France): Refuge de Leschaux

  • W wall - normal french route - 700 m - D.
  • W wall (Azema-Frassinet) - 700 m - TD + A1.
  • W wall and NW ridge - AD till the ridge then D.

some pics of the NW ridge


When To Climb

summer.

Logistic Info

all necessary logistic info can be found in Mont Blanc group page.

Mountain Conditions

  • You can get meteo information at the official site of the Regione Valle d'Aosta:
  • Valle d'Aosta Meteo

Triolet side

Webcam

  • WEBCAM on Aosta Valley:
  • Webcam

Books and Maps

BOOKS:

  • "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali", di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
  • "Guida dei Monti d'Italia-Monte Bianco" (Vol. II°) di R. Chabod, L. Grivel, S. Saglio, G. Buscaini-Club Alpino Italiano/Turing Club Italiano, 1968 (in Italian).
  • "I Rifugi della Valle d'Aosta" di Stefano Ardito, Ed. Guide iter, Febbraio 2003.
  • "A piedi in Valle d'Aosta" (Vol. 1), di Stefano Ardito, Ed. Guide iter, Giugno 2003.
  • "80 itinerari di Escursionismo Alpinismo e Sci Alpinismo in Valle d'Aosta", di Osvaldo Cardellina, Ed. Musumeci, Giugno 1977 (in Italian); seconda Ed. Luglio 1981; terza Ed. Luglio 1984; (in French), prima Ed. Febbraio 1978; seconda Ed. Marzo 1980.
The rare Guida delle Alpi Occidentali
The rare Guida delle Alpi Occidentali
Mountaineering Literature and Guides
Mountaineering Literature and Guides
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
MAPS:
  • Kompass "Massiccio del Monte Bianco Valle d'Aosta Sentieri e Rifugi" Carta turistica 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Massiccio del Monte Bianco" (n°4), Torino, 1998 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Monte Bianco-Courmayeur-Chamonix-La Thuile" (n°107), 1:25.000.
  • L'Escursionista "Monte Bianco Courmayeur" (n° 1) Edizioni Rimini 2004 1:25.000.
  • Edizioni Tabacco "Mont Blanc" Udine, 1978 1:50.000.
  • Studio F.M.B. Bologna 1988 "Monte Bianco-Mont Blanc" 1:50.000.

Important Information


Useful numbers

  • Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
  • Bollettino Meteo (weather info) Tel. 0165-44113.
  • Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.


Children

Children

Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. For example, the Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' The Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children.