Bortelhorn (Pta del Rebbio)

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Valais, Switzerland, Europe
10475 ft / 3193 m
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Bortelhorn (Pta del Rebbio)
Created On: Jul 18, 2004
Last Edited On: Jan 12, 2006


The Bortelhorn (or Pta del Rebbio) is an elegant pyramid-shaped peak in the Lepontine Alps just E of Brig. The Lepontine Alps is in general a very quiet and unspoiled area. The Bortelhorn is positioned in the Swiss-Italian border chain, which also includes the Wasenhorn (3245m), the Furggubäumhorn (2985m) and the Hillehorn (3170m). There are small glaciers on the W-face (Bortelgletscher, harmless), the N-face, (Steinugletscher, with crevasses), the E-face (Ghiacciaio di Mottiscia), and the S-face (Ghiacciaio del Rebbio; harmless). This mountain can be climbed from all sides via various routes. The normal route (F) is from the W (Bortelhütte at 2113m) and crosses the Bortelgletscher, picking up the SW-ridge (some sections in grade I and II) at 2986m. Although the Bortelglacier is harmless, i.e. few crevasses, crampons and ice axe are indispensable to cross the glacier.

Other routes are: from the Bortelhütte over the NW ridge (F), from the Steinugletscher through the N-face (AD), from Alpe Veglia (Rifugio Citta di Arona) over the Ghiacciaio del Rebbio and the SW-ridge (PD) or over the S-ridge (PD). The route following the NW-ridge (F) avoids glacier travel. It can best be reached a little SE of P. 2798 (LKS map).

Climbing base

The best base for climbing this mountain is the Bortelhütte (2113 m), which can easily be reached from Brig. This hut is owned by the Skiclub Simplon (Brig), has 24 beds and is opened from June until October. The winterraum is opened all year round. The Bortelhütte is quite a luxurious hut with electricity and hot water. The guardian is an excellent cook. There is a glettergarten near the hut (10-20 minutes walk). Full address: phone: ++41 27 9245210.

Getting There

Brig is the nearest large town in Switzerland, with railway connections to Milano, Geneva, and Basel (all with international airports). The Bortelhütte can be reached from Berisal (Postbus from Brig to Berisal; 2 hours signposted walk) or Rosswald (Seilbahn from Brig to Rosswald; 3 hours signposted walk). See for bus and train connections the CFF website:,

Red Tape

No permits; no summit fees

When To Climb

In winter it is an interesting mountain for ski-mountaineering. Summer climbs are best from the middle of June to the end of September.


There are camp sites in Brig and Domodossola.

Mountain Conditions


Maps and books

Brig 1289 1:25 000, Visp 274 1:50 000

Michael Waeber, Walliser Alpen. DAV-Gebietsführer. 12th ed. München, 1999. ISBN 3-7633-2416-X

Maurice Brandt, Clubführer Walliser Alpen 6: Vom Simplon zum Nufenenpass (Gonerli). SAC Biel, 1994. ISBN 3-85902-139-7

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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Keyser Soze

Keyser Soze - Dec 15, 2004 3:27 pm - Voted 10/10

Untitled Comment

Althogh this glacier is tiny, crampons can be indispensable in late summer. If you forgot them, you can choose the NW ridge instead. It is best reached a little SE of P. 2798. This ridge is not harder than the SW ridge.

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