Coffin Nail

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Rock Difficulty:
5.8 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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Page By:
Coffin Nail
Created On: Jan 28, 2004
Last Edited On: Aug 22, 2006


Take the trail out from Humber Park and up the climber trail (use the talus field for faster approach time) to the base of Tahquitz. Once at the base, skirt to the far right side. The start of Coffin Nail begins about 75 yard left of the classic 'The Open Book', by ascending 3rd class rock for 70 feet to a ledge. This ledge sits below a corridor that tapers to a steep wall/chimney. The ledge is located right next to Jensen's Jaunt.

Route Description

Pitch #1 (5.8):
Once at the ledge, belay from here. Ascend the left side of the narrow corridor to a crack in the back of steep corner/chimney. Climb the crack and make a few 5.7 moves past the crack and onto a steep slabby face. Once on the face, locate a crack that ascends a shallow right facing corner. Climb this corner (5.8 lieback, hand jams, and great fingers.... very good pro) to an arch above. Climb over the arch, following a finger crack up to a stately ledge (natural pro with old piton, a FULL 60 meters!!).

Pitch #2 (5.6):
Traverse left and up, around to an awkward sloping ramp (lots of exposure!). Mantle onto the ramp (5.6) and ascend the ramp up and left (poor pro). Once at the end of the ramp, head straight up to a ledge, just below a small tree (belay here with good pro, 80 feet)

Pitch #3 (5.6):
Head straight up from the belay location, though a tree (ARRRGGG!) to a right facing dihedral (easy 5th, good pro). Be careful on the first encountered ledge.....a loose block the size of a large TV sits there! The right facing corner continues to the summit. Choose how you exit. There's a fun little face problem that requires an awkward move onto the sloping summit (stiff 5.8). Belay at cracks on the summit or where comfortable (200 feet?)

Essential Gear

+ 60 meter rope
+ 8 Slings
+ Pro to 2.5" (nut and Aliens helpful)
+ Draws for gear

Miscellaneous Info

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Coffin Nail

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