One of the early routes at Tahquitz. Due to its westerly exposure, it can be climbed year around, except after a recent snow storm. First ascent 1938 by Carl Jensen, Jim Smith, and Don McDonald.
From the first sharp bend below Humber Park, follow the Ernie Maxwell trail across Strawberry Creek, then another couple hundred yards to an obvious use trail on the left. Follow the use trail up towards Lunch Rock. From the vicinity of Lunch Rock use trails lead off right around the base of the West Face. Continue around the base of the rock until just before the sharp edge defining the right (south) edge of the west face area.
Route DescriptionPitch 1:
Climb up easy terrain until a prominent crack is gained. Belay at a small ledge.
Continue up the corner until reaching a slopy alcove beneath an impressive overhang.
Pass the overhang on the left, then up a corner to another ledge.
Continue up the corner system, or head out right, then up slabs to the top.
This rock marks the start of the Friction Route descent.
From the last belay, continue up easy slabs staying near the top of the south face. Look for a large boulder perched above the south face. A short chimney leads down to a ledge. Head right about 50 feet, then start working your way down and left across ledges and slabs until reaching the base of the cliff. Follow the use trail back to the base of the route, then retrace your approach back to the car.
A 50m rope is sufficient. Nuts and cams to 3", and a few slings.