Traitor Horn

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 33.76030°N / 116.6823°W
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 4
Additional Information Grade: II
Sign the Climber's Log


One of the early routes at Tahquitz. This climb tackles the improbable prominent horn on the skyline of the West Face. First ascent 1938 by Jim Smith, Arthur Johnson, and M. Holton. FFA 1941 by Roy Gorin and William Shand.


From the first sharp bend below Humber Park, follow the Ernie Maxwell trail across Strawberry Creek, then another couple hundred yards to an obvious use trail on the left. Follow the use trail up towards Lunch Rock. From the vicinity of Lunch Rock use trails lead off right around the base of the West Face. Continue around the base of the rock until just before the sharp edge defining the right (south) edge of the west face area.

Route Description

This route foloows the first two pitches of Jensen's Jaunt, but dekes right just before the second belay.

Pitch 1: Climb up easy terrain until a prominent crack is gained. Belay at a small ledge.

Pitch 2: Continue up the corner until just below a slopy alcove beneath an impressive overhang. Traverse right on thin holds (5.8) around the base of a large horn (the "Traitor Horn", so named because it is not the horn you are trying to climb), then up a corner into an alcove to belay.

Pitch 3: Head up and right towards the obvious horn. Gear in the 1-2" range protects the committing moves (5.8) out right onto the horn. Heave your way onto the horn, then continue up to any convenient belay stance.

Pitch 4: Keep going up progressively easier terrain until you reach a point where you are comfortable unroping.


Find this funky boulder with...This rock marks the start of the Friction Route descent.

From the last belay, continue up easy slabs staying near the top of the south face. Look for a large boulder perched above the south face. A short chimney leads down to a ledge. Head right about 50 feet, then start working your way down and left across ledges and slabs until reaching the base of the cliff. Follow the use trail back to the base of the route, then retrace your approach back to the car.

Essential Gear

A 50m rope is sufficient. Nuts and cams to 2.5", and a few slings.



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