This two-pitch route starts in a prominent right-facing corner system right above Lunch Rock, and ends at Lunch Ledge. The first pitch is awesome; many parties simply rap off after completing it. First ascent 1952 by John Mendenhall and Royal Robbins. FFA 1963 by Bob Kamps.
From the first sharp bend below Humber Park, follow the Ernie Maxwell trail across Strawberry Creek, then another couple hundred yards to an obvious use trail on the left. Follow the use trail up towards Lunch Rock. Continue up past Lunch Rock to the base of the cliff. Locate the obvious right-facing corner, and climb a short way to a belay at a large tree on a spacious ledge.
Route DescriptionPitch 1:
Climb a clean corner to a huge right-facing corner system of flakes. Sustained climbing leads to a pair of bolts on the left next to a bush. 80', gear 0.5-2"
Continue up to a large right-facing corner, then face climb to Lunch Ledge. This pitch can be broken into two to avoid excessive rope drag. There is a large ledge with a sturdy bush 100' above the first belay. The face climbing above is runout.
A single rap from the bolts at the top of the first pitch gets you to the ground. From Lunch Ledge, either continue on to the top (5.4-5.6) and descend via the Friction Route, or rap down a series of large pine trees to the ground.
A 50m rope is sufficient. Nuts and cams to 3", and a few slings.