Comic Strip, 5.10a-5.11b

Overview/Approach

One of the better 5.10*** trad routes in the park is Frontal Lobotomy but somehow it did not make it in my first 1000 routes climbed in Joshua Tree National Park.  I would be shocked if any other routes this good have evaded the 1st 1000 routes I had climbed.  Miramontes' local guide does give Frontal two stars, but compared to his other recommended routes, it deserves more love yet.  The quality of rock, the position, the variety of climbing, exposure and length are all exceptional. The guide offers an alternative start avoiding the fun off-width to finger corner, but I can’t imagine anyone who could lead the upper section would forgo the first half of the route.

It can easily be divided into two pitches but is safer to lead as one, with proper extension.  Comic Book itself has a few classic long trad lines, but the north face of Comic Strip is better combined with the south face of Mary Worth Buttress.  This allows you to climb in the sun in the morning and switch to the shade in the afternoon during winter months.  Mary Worth has two decent tall 5.10 slab climbs on it and the Comic Strip has three worthy 5.10 leads.  A short tower at the base of the canyon that splits these two formations is also worth climbing.  It is named Stargazer, 5.10b.

Approach as you would for the Comic Book.  From Hidden Valley camping you could hike to Comic Strip to the east.  But if driving, take any of the pull outs on the right after passing the left turn for the campground.  The Sphinx is distinguishable from the road and looks like a minature version of the Sphinx in Egypt.  The Comic Strip is southeast from the Sphinx and comes into view as soon as you circumvent the west side of the Sphinx if hiking south.  Comic Strip is essentially the backside (north) to the Comic Book which is an identifiable dome from the road as well.  Frontal Lobotomy is an obvious crack made up of dark varnish at the far right side of the north facing wall that is Comic Strip.  This end of the wall sort of looks like a whale breaching.

Routes Listed from Right to Left on the North Facing Wall

Frontal Lobotomy- 100’-5.10***/ MP.com calls this a two-pitch route and rates it 5.10b, but it can easily be led as one with proper extension.  This is one of the best 5.10 trad leads in Joshua Tree.  It is located at the west end of the north face of the Comic Strip.  Start up a wide left facing corner.  A slight awkward heal-toe start gives way to secure fingers as the crack bites down after just a few meters.  In the off width, you can place a #3 deeper in.  Facing the left wall allows a smoother transition to fingers above.  Lay back a few meters on the finger crack until you hit the large horizonal above.  Traverse left with ample medium gear for protection in the horizonal.  Step up and left to a ledge.  Traverse back right through a bolt to access the finger layback.  Place small gear as you mantle up a single positive hold in the crack.  Continue on fingers (crux) for several more meters until more positive jugs and hands appear.  Easier climbing leads to a fixed rap well below the summit of this feature.  Single to #3 plus additional off set cams and/or wires.  Double #.5 to #1.  Route receives shade most of the day.  Dow

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Take it for Granite- 5.10b/