Crow’s Nest, 5.5-5.7

Overview/Approach

Towers of Uncertainty is one of my favorite places, outside of deep destinations in the Wonderland, to go to get away from tourist climbers, dogs, crying babies, drones and speakers.  By far the best moderates at Towers of Uncertainty are found on the south face of Lava Dome.  From there, most of this area offers a ton of secure solos for the avid Jtree route ticker.  The north face of Crow’s Nest offers an easy line up of six solo candidates.  Two of them are definitely contrived routes, Yea Baby, 5.5*, and Caws and Effect, 5.7.  The other four follow real features to the top of the formation.  Trench Connection, 5.5**, is considered to be one of the best at the grade in the entire park.  It follows a true rock trench at the east end of the north face and climbs excellent rock to the top.  You can easily scramble down from the summit to the west and return to the base.  There are no anchors or bolts of any kind on Crow’s Nest as of 2023 which is refreshing. 

Crow’s Nest sticks out by itself to the very north edge of this group of “towers”, so it is easy to find.  If at Lava Dome already, just follow a sandy wash north and turn east after passing Reef Rock.  You drive down Geology Tour Road which is a sand-based road and pull out on the right at a space that takes about three vehicles (2.8 miles).  The trail heads west from there.  It is usually signed and closed for bird nesting in the spring and summer which adds additional signage to look out for.  The winter and fall are typically open to climbing no worries.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the North Face of Crow's Nest

Trench Connection- 65’-5.5**/ Only Right On, a multi pitch on Saddle Rock, is rated higher at the grade in Jtree by the local guide and I concur.  This is an excellent lead at the grade for the budding trad leader.  It is also a secure solo, a very cool water worn trench located at the far-left side of Crow’s Nest’s north face.  Jams and features aplenty. Walk off the south side by following a ledge that ramps down west.  Dow

No Strings Attached- 70’-5.5/ A worthy solo (well protected trad lead as well) if you are ticking off easy routes at Towers of Uncertainty.  A fun steep and juggy start leads to a low angled crack to the top.  Same descent as Trench. Dow

Yea Baby- 5.5*/

Crow’s Feet- 70’-5.6/ Another worthy solo, felt secure the whole way. Same as No Strings, a fun steep juggy start leads to a well featured right leaning crack to the top.  Same descent as Trench.  Dow

Caws and Effect- 5.7/

Eating Crow- 5.5/ Same as the others on this wall. Fun steep start on jugs to a crack to the top, descend as for Trench.  Secure solo or great lead for the new trad leader.  Dow