Croz di Santa Giuliana

Croz di Santa Giuliana

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 46.42163°N / 11.62368°E
Additional Information County: Trentino Alto Adige
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 8760 ft / 2670 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Croz di Santa Giuliana m. 2670

Croz di Santa Giuliana 2670 m is a strange and characteristic yellow coloured tower in the subgroup of Vael, Catinaccio Group, located near the Roda di Vael shelter, to the East of the gully between Roda di Vaél and Roda del Diavolo. The peak shows a huge hole just below the summit, which is why it is also called Torre Finestra (Window Tower) or Fensterl-Turm in German.

Croz di Santa Giuliana or Torre del Finestrino, 2670 m
Croz di Santa Giuliana
A curious rock, Croz di S. Giuliana or Torre Finestra
A curious rock, Croz di S. Giuliana or Torre Finestra

It’s well known to climbers in reason of its particular aspect – showing very different shapes depending on the side from which you look - and for its beautiful and popular climbing routes.

Getting There

Road access

From Bolzano take the Val d’Ega road, reach Nova Levante, the beautiful Carezza Lake and the Costalunga Pass m. 1753. From here take the path 548 to the Roda di Vaèl Hut m. 2283 (1,30 hours).

Otherwise, more shortly, it’s also possible to use the chair lift - starting below the pass - to the refuge Paolina and hence reach the Roda di Vaèl Hut or Rotwandhütte through the path 539 (0,40).

Another view of Croz di S.ta Giuliana
Another view of Croz di S.ta Giuliana
Rapping from Croz di S.ta Giuliana
Rapping from Croz di S.ta Giuliana

Access to Croz di Santa Giuliana from Roda di Vaèl Hut

Above the shelter take the path to the Ferrata Masaré (signposts Torre Finestra). At first the path rises along meadows, then, when the trail comes close to the base of the Croz di Santa Giuliana, you will find some fixed ropes and finally a characteristic ladder that enters a narrow tunnel. At the exit, you find yourself at the base of a large grassy basin. At a crossroads take the path uphill, passing just below the Croz di Santa Giuliana. Just below the base of the Croz, leave the main path, heading to a pair of plates, one of which is white visible from afar.

Croz di S.ta Giuliana or Torre Finestra
Croz di S.ta Giuliana or Torre Finestra

Routes

There are several routes, but the two most climbed ones are the short Normal route and the classic South Ridge.

* Normal Route on West face II, 70 m. A good short route to reach the summit, suitable for beginners

* South Ridge III, a short move graded IV, 130 m. Another nice and exposed climb, more difficult than the previous one, on excellent rock - A considerable collapse has recently affected the Southern ridge of the Croz di Santa Giuliana, which therefore is no longer climbable 

* Eisenstecken (East Face) VI+, 80 m. A short but challenging route

* Millo-Tarter (East Face) VI-, 70 m.

Croz di S.ta Giuliana, different perspective

Croz di S.ta Giuliana

Croz di S.ta Giuliana South ridge

South ridge-

Guys at the bottom of the abseil line

Guys at the bottom of the abseil line

Approach to Normal Route - From Rifugio Roda de Vael take the path to Ferrata del Masarè (signpost Torre Finestra). At first the path rises along meadows, then, when the trail comes close to the base of the Croz di Santa Giuliana, you will find some fixed ropes and finally a characteristic ladder that enters a narrow tunnel. At the exit, you find yourself at the base of a large grassy basin. At a crossroads take the path uphill, passing just below the Croz di Santa Giuliana. Just below the base of the Croz, leave the main the path, heading to a pair of plates, one of which is white visible from afar. The attack is to the right of the plates.
Rotwand and Croz di Santa Giuliana (Torre del Finestrino)
Roda di Vael and Croz di Santa Giuliana - Ph. EricChu
Approach to South Ridge - Same approach as for the previous route, but continue to the right to find the base of the ridge located to the right of the Normal route.
Rapping near the huge window
Rapping near the huge window
Meadows along the descent
Meadows along the descent
Descent: from the summit head towards South, reaching an anchor from where the first rappel starts (20 m). You pass just in front of the window and just below, on a balcony, there is a single peg to make the subsequent rappel (18 m), that settles on the attack.

Red Tape

Croz di Santa Giuliana map
Croz di Santa Giuliana map

No fees and no permits required.  Croz di Santa Giuliana and the entire Catinaccio Group is situated in the Natural Park Sciliar-Catinaccio- Latemar, a park located inside one of the 9 areas of the Dolomites approved in the UNESCO natural sites.  More info  In this article by Silvia Mazzani more info about Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage Site: Dolomites, living mountains    

Huts

 
The Roda di Vaèl (Rotwand) hut on 2283 meters

Roda di Vaèl Hut - ph. EricChu

* Rifugio Roda di Vaèl Access: from Costalunga Pass via the path 548, from Rifugio Paolina via the paths 539 and 549, from Refuge Ciampedie via the path 545, from Vigo di Fassa via the paths 547 and 545. * Rifugio Pederiva Access. see the previous hut * Rifugio Paolina m 2125 Access: by chair lift from Karer Lake 1620 m. or by walk from Costalunga Pass

Surroundings

The Vaèl Subgroup counts several towers of "dolomia", the typical rock of the Dolomites. The most famous peaks are Roda di Vaèl and Mugoni, lying just in the surroundings of Croz di Santa Giuliana, which are both legendary peaks where some of the most important pages of the climbing history in the Dolomites had been written.
The beautiful Mugoni
The beautiful Mugoni
Roda di Vaèl (Rotwand) and Tscheiner Spitze
Roda di Vael and Sforcella
Sforcella - Tscheiner Spitze
Sforcella - Tscheiner Spitze
Teufelswandspitze and Croz di Santa Giuliana in sunrise alpenglow
At sunrise

When to Climb

The best season is summer (from the end of June to the end of September)

Bibliography

* “La nuova guida del Catinaccio” by Antonio Bernard, Ed. Mediterranee, 2008 * “Catinaccio” by Dante Colli and Gino Battisti, Tamari Editori in Bologna, 1984 * Map TABACCO n. 06 - Val di Fassa e Dolomiti fassane

Meteo forecast

METEO TRENTINO


Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

Catinaccio (Rosengarten)Mountains & Rocks