Campanile Gardeccia

Campanile Gardeccia

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 46.44720°N / 11.64910°E
Additional Information County: Trentino Alto Adige
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer, Fall
Additional Information Elevation: 7579 ft / 2310 m
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Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Catinaccio Group > Campanile Gardeccia

Campanile Gardeccia 2310 m

Campanile Gardeccia is a fine spire belonging to the Catinaccio Group, subgroup Dirupi di Larsèc and overlooking from the North the wide basin of Gardeccia. It’s the last peak situated on the ridge, facing South-West, running down from Pala di Mezdì and separating the spire called Guglia del Rifugio (on the left) from the deep gully of Pala di Mezdì (on the right). Campanile Gardeccia counts some interesting climbing routes; amongst these routes, one of the most fine and frequently climbed is the route Hendrina, running on the South face of the tower.

Dirupi di Larsec subgroup and Campanile Gardeccia

Campanile Gardeccia and Dirupi di Larsec

Getting There

The starting point to approach the peak is Pera di Fassa, located in the homonymous Val di Fassa.

Road access to Pera di Fassa - from Trento follow the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Egna-Ora and take the road S51 towards Fassa Valley, getting to Cavalese, Predazzo, Moena and Pera di Fassa (48 km. from Egna-Ora).

- from Bolzano follow the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Prato all’Isarco and take the road to Carezza Lake, Passo Costalunga, Fassa Valley.

Approach to Gardeccia

The road from Pera di Fassa to Gardeccia is open to private vehicles as far as the little hamlet of Soial. A minibus service is available from the chair-lift station in Pera di Fassa; frequent departures both from Pera and Gardeccia. Otherwise the chair-lift in Pera di Fassa will lead you to the Ciampedie upper station. From here 40 minutes by walk to reach Gardeccia basin.

Hendrina route report

Campanile Gardeccia South Wall – Via Hendrina report (UIAA scale) Summit altitude: m 2310 Difficulty: Alpine D+, UIAA max V+ Route length: 250 m Exposure: South First ascent: Gino Battisti, Dante Colli 1980 Starting point: Gardeccia m. 1950

A classic exposed climb on good rock with a few fine pitches

Route Hendrina starting dihedral, Campanile Gardeccia

Hendrina unmistakable starting corner

Climbing a grey wall on Route Hendrina, Campanile Gardeccia

A grey wall on Hendrina

Campanile Gardeccia - Via Hendrina topo

Via Hedrina topo

Walking approach - From Gardeccia m. 1950 take the Larsec path towards Passo delle Scalette, reaching after few minutes the bottom of a debris. Near a dwarf pine leave the main path and rise along the steep slopes heading to the well visible tower. A less steep approach is the following: cross the little bridge before Rifugio Gardeccia, follow for about 50 meters the dirty road to Vajolet Hut, then leave it, cross the stream to the right and take the path “Bepo de Medìl”. Follow this trail as far as a scree on the left. Don’t cross the scree but leave the main trail, heading to the right and rising a grassy slope (cairns) getting the base of Pala di Mezdì. Skirt the bottom of the wall to the right (East) following some cairns, reaching the starting point of the route, located on the highest point of the scree below an open corner.
Punta Emma and Vajolet Towers seen from Campanile Gardeccia

Punta Emma and Vajolet Towers

Stunning climb on route Hendrina, Campanile Gardeccia

Airy climb on route Hendrina

The stunning Pala di Socorda seen from Campanile Gardeccia

View over the stunning Pala di Socorda

Route report L1 – Climb an open dihedral, where it closes head to left with a hard move - difficult to understand - and continue to climb up another dihedral on the left, getting to the belay. V and V+, 28 m. L2– Up again the fine dihedral V, 45 m. L3 – Another pitch up the dihedral IV, 30 m. L4 – Slanting left , then directly and finally heading right to reach a good belay on a shoulder (cairn). IV, 40 m. L5 – Slanting left reach a little ridge. II, 15 m.
Skirting a small pinnacle on route Hendrina

Small pinnacle on route Hendrina

Campanile Gardeccia summit pano over Guglia del Rifugio and Cima Catinaccio behind

Summit view

Rapping down Campanile Gardeccia

Rapping down Campanile Gardeccia

L6 – Climb the ridge, aggirare some spires on the right and belay near a rocky saddle at the bottom of the upper vertical wall III, 35 m. L7 – Follow a fine grey corner and belay under a huge yellow roof. IV+, 30 m. L8 – With exposed climb slanting right skirt the roof, at the end climb directly a vertical edge with good holds, then more easily reach the summit. Descent: follow easily the summit crest for about 40 meters, downclimb for a few meters to the left (To Gardeccia side), reach a small saddle and descend to the opposite side. Near a huge boulder appearing like a bridge between two pinnacles there is the first abseil anchor. 3 abseils lead inside a scree gully. Follow it reaching the base of the wall and skirt it to the left rocks, getting to the starting point of the climb.

Other routes

Other interesting routes - UIAA scale South wall - Via delle Pignatte D, mainly UIAA IV, max UIAA V-, 130 m. - Don Tita Soraruf 1940 SW wall - Via Luisa D+, mainly UIAA IV+, max UIAA V, 170 m. - G. Battisti and E. Lampugnani 19-8-1980 - Via Prima Luna TD-, UIAA IV, V, V+, 200 m. - Antonio Bernard, Alessandro Gogna, Ivan Fuligni 19-8-2005 - L’ultimo sole (SW wall and SW ridge) TD-, UIAA IV, V, V+, VI- (a short move)- Alberto Rampini, Stefano Righetti 25-9-1983

Natural parks

Campanile Gardeccia is located inside the Natural Park Sciliar-Catinaccio and Latemar. This area, shared between the provinces of Bolzano and Trento, is one of the nine mountain systems of the Dolomites acknowledged as UNESCO World Heritage Site. More info about here: Dolomites living mountains Unesco World Heritage
Catinaccio/Rosengarten, the North part
Catinaccio/Rosengarten, the North part
The area is one of the most important systems worldwide for the study of the stratigraphy of the Triassic, in reason of the plenty of fossils on Alpe di Siusi, the relationship between carbonate and volcanic sediments, and the fact that the outcrops are easily accessible. Catinaccio, with the stunning Vajolet Towers, forms a series of peaks and sharp needles showing the movement of an island which sank into the sea 240 million years ago.

Red Tape

No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking. The road starting from Pera di Fassa to Gardeccia is open to the private cars as far as the small hamlet of Soial. Private cars beyond Soial are not allowed.

Huts

- Rifugio Gardeccia 1949 m. Situation: Gardeccia basin Open: from June to the end of September - from Christmas to Easter open during the day (no overnight) Size: 43 persons Getting There: by walk from Soial, alternatively by minibus from the chair-lift station in Pera di Fassa Phone: 0039 0462 763152 Mobile: 0039 335 7432677 - 0039 335 7432676
Gardeccia huts and Cima Catinaccio

Gardeccia huts

- Rifugio Stella Alpina Situation: Gardeccia basin Size: 50 persons Getting There: by walk from Soial, alternatively by minibus from the chair-lift station in Pera di Fassa Hut's phone : 0039 0462 760349

When to Climb

The best season to climb goes from June to middle October.

Meteo

METEO TRENTINO DOLOMITI METEO - TRENTINO

Guidebooks and maps

Arrampicare sul Catinaccio e dintorni  guidebook
Guidebook La nuova guida del Catinaccio
Guidebook Gruppo del Catinaccio
Guidebooks "Arrampicare sul Catinaccio e dintorni" by Mauro Bernardi, Ed, Athesia -“La nuova guida del Catinaccio” by Antonio Bernard, Ed. Mediterranee, 2008 – A wide selection of Catinaccio group climbing routes -“Gruppo del Catinaccio” by Andrea Gabrieli, Luca Visentini ed.
Tabacco map Val di Fassa e Dolomiti Fassane
Kompass map Rosengarten Catinaccio - Latemar
Maps - Val di Fassa e Dolomiti Fassane - 1:25.000 - foglio 06 - Tabacco 

- Rosengarten Catinaccio - Latemar - 1.25.000 -  Kompass