Guglia del Rifugio

Overview

Guglia del Rifugio 2290 m

Guglia del Rifugio 2290 m is a fine dolomite tower belonging to the subgroup Dirupi di Larsèc, Catinaccio Group, and overlooking from the North the wide basin of Gardeccia. As the name itself tells - "guglia" means "spire" - it's a slender and pointed tower, nevertheless its fine shape is not very flashy, as it's located very close and almost attached to the highest towers behind it. Anyhow it's a very fine and worthwhile goal to choose starting from Gardeccia.

There are several climbing routes on the spire, which has lately become rather well frequented by the climbers, because of its good quality rock, the short approach, given the proximity to the Gardeccia huts, the favorable exposure of the walls, besides the interest of the climb, pleasant and not too difficult

Getting There

The closest village to climb the peak is Pera di Fassa, in the homonymous Val di Fassa.

Road access to Pera di Fassa

- from Trento follow the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Egna-Ora and take the road S51 towards val di Fassa, getting to Cavalese, Predazzo, Moena and Pera di Fassa (about 50 km. from Egna-Ora).
- from Bolzano follow the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Prato all’Isarco and take the road to Carezza Lake, Passo Costalunga, Val di Fassa.

Approach to Gardeccia

The road from Pera di Fassa to Gardeccia is open to private vehicles as far as the little hamlet of Soial. The alternatives are: 

- From Vigo di Fassa, take the Catinaccio cable car up to Ciampedie and then continue on the forest path n. 540 and in about 50 minutes to Gardeccia, Difference in height: 50 meters
- From Pera di Fassa, with chair lift (three trunks) to the Campedie and then continue on foot for about 50 minutes along the path n. 540 as in the previous point
- From Munciòn, on foot in about 1.15 hours along the carriage road

Route: De Francesch (South Ridge)

Via De Francesch (South Ridge) report

Difficulty: III, IV, IV+ (UIAA scale)
Length: 170 m.
Pitches: 6
Exposure: S

The route De Francesch or South Ridge is certainly the best known and frequented route on Guglia del Rifugio. A nice climb not too demanding.

Walking approach - From Gardeccia m. 1950 cross the bed of the stream Ruf de Soal and take the opposite shore the equipped path "Bepo de Medil". Follow this trail amongst the dwarf pines, a few meters pass the fifth hairpin (cairn) leave the main path and head to right crossing a grassy slope. Cross a scree gully and diagonally reach the base of the spire (half a hour from Gardeccia). The start is situated near two big pines, at a vertical chimney.

L1 - Climb the yellow and vertical chimney, which becomes dihedral, at about half of the dihedral get out on the right and reach a terrace on the edge. 4°+, 4°, 25 m.
L2 - Climb up on the ridge, reach a flake, then head to right and on easier ground reach the belay near some shrubs. 4°, 3°+, 23 m.
L3 - Some shrubs, then a gully and belay on a sloping crest. 4°-, 3°, 2°, 40 m.
L4 - Follow the easy crest to the left, then reach the base of the steep summit wall. 2°, 3°, 30 m.
L5 - A fine wide and grey dihedral, belay in the middle. 4°-, 20 m
L6 - Still up the dihedral, leading to a rocky notch from where easily on the summit of the spire. 4°, 3°, 2°, 30 m.

Descent: from the summit down to the saddle between the two points, cross a ridge westwards reaching a fixed anchor and abseil 25 m. After a brief downclimbing follow the scree gully for about 50 meters reaching another anchor. 2 abseils (20 + 20) to the base of the spire.

Essential gear

Ropes 2 x 55, helmet, some quickdraws, slings and a set of nuts

Other routes

- Spigolo Maestro

- Via dell'Artista D-, 130 m - A. Bernard, S. Battistini 1984

- Via Malgari D-, 120 m - G. Battisti, D. Colli, G. Zino 1980

Red Tape

No fees no permits required. Anyhow be aware that the road starting from Pera di Fassa to Gardeccia is open to the private cars as far as the small hamlet of Soial. Private cars beyond Soial are not allowed. 

Huts

- Rifugio Gardeccia
Situation: Gardeccia basin
Open: from June to the end of September - from Christmas to Easter open during the day (no overnight)
Size: 43 persons
Getting There: by walk from Soial, alternatively by the Pera di Fassa chairlift or the Vigo di Fassa cable car
Phone: 0039 0462 763152 Mobile: 0039 335 7432677 - 0039 335 7432676

- Rifugio Stella Alpina Situation: Gardeccia basin
Size: 50 persons
Getting There: by walk from Soial, alternatively by the chair-lift in Pera di Fassa or the cable car in Vigo di Fassa
Hut's phone : 0039 0462 760349

Other kinds of accomodation

Plenty of accomodation in Val di Fassa, different kinds: hotels, apartments, rooms, campings

When to Climb

Summertime (from June to the end of September)

Meteo

Meteo Trentino

Guidebooks and maps

"Arrampicare sul Catinaccio e dintorni" - Marco Bernardi, ed. Athesia 2009
“La nuova guida del Catinaccio” - Antonio Bernard, Ed. Mediterranee 2008

Map: Val di Fassa e Dolomiti Fassane - 1:25.000 - foglio 06 - Tabacco