Guglia del Rifugio

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Trento, Italy, Europe
County:
Trentino Alto-Adige
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Summer
Elevation:
7513 ft / 2290 m
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Guglia del Rifugio
Created On: Jun 7, 2016
Last Edited On: Feb 20, 2018

Overview

Guglia del Rifugio m. 2290

Guglia del Rifugio m. 2290 is a nice tower belonging to the subgroup Dirupi di Larsèc, Catinaccio Group, and overlooking from the North the wide basin of Gardeccia.
As the name itself tells - "guglia" means "spire" - it's a slender and pointed tower, nevertheless its fine shape is not very flashy, as it's located very close and almost attached to the highest towers behind it. Anyhow it's a very fine and worthwhile goal to choose starting from Gardeccia.

Guglia del Rifugio and Dirupi di Larsec, a forest of spires
Guglia del Rifugio and Dirupi di Larsec, a forest of spires


There are several climbing routes on the spire, which has lately become rather well frequented by the climbers, because of its good quality rock, the short approach, given the proximity to the Gardeccia huts, the favorable exposure of the walls, besides the interest of the climb, pleasant and not too difficult

Summit of Guglia del Rifugio
Summit of Guglia del Rifugio
Catinaccio from the approach to Guglia del Rifugio, different perspective and light
Catinaccio from the approach to Guglia del Rifugio


Getting There

The closest village to climb the peak is Pera di Fassa, in the homonymous Val di Fassa.

Road access to Pera di Fassa

- from Trento follow the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Egna-Ora and take the road S51 towards val di Fassa, getting to Cavalese, Predazzo, Moena and Pera di Fassa (about 50 km. from Egna-Ora).

- from Bolzano follow the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Prato all’Isarco and take the road to Carezza Lake, Passo Costalunga, Val di Fassa.

Catinaccio dominating Gardeccia meadows
Catinaccio dominating Gardeccia meadows

Approach to Gardeccia

The road from Pera di Fassa to Gardeccia is open to private vehicles as far as the little hamlet of Soial. A minibus service is available from the chair-lift station in Pera di Fassa; frequent departures both from Pera and Gardeccia. Otherwise the chair-lift in Pera di Fassa will lead you to the Ciampedie upper station. From here 40 minutes by walk to reach Gardeccia basin.

Route: De Francesch (South Ridge)

Beta of Guglia del Rifugio South ridge
Beta of Guglia del Rifugio South ridge





Via De Francesch (South Ridge) description

Difficulty: III, IV, IV+ (UIAA scale)
Length: 170 m.
Pitches: 6
Exposure: S


The route De Francesch or South Ridge is certainly the best known and frequented route on Guglia del Rifugio. A nice climb not too demanding.

Walking approach - From Gardeccia m. 1950 cross the bed of the stream Ruf de Soal and take the opposite shore the equipped path "Bepo de Medil". Follow this trail amongst the dwarf pines, a few meters pass the fifth hairpin (cairn) leave the main path and head to right crossing a grassy slope. Cross a scree gully and diagonally reach the base of the spire (half a hour from Gardeccia). The attack is situated near two big pines, at a vertical chimney.

Pitch 1 - Climb the yellow and vertical chimney, which becomes dihedral, at about half of the dihedral get out on the right and reach a terrace on the edge. 4°+, 4°, 25 m.
Pitch 2 - Climb up on the ridge, reach a flake, then head to right and on easier ground reach the belay near some shrubs. 4°, 3°+, 23 m.
Pitch 3 - Some shrubs, then a gully and belay on a sloping crest. 4°-, 3°, 2°, 40 m.
Pitch 4 - Follow the easy crest to the left, then reach the base of the steep summit wall. 2°, 3°, 30 m.
Pitch 5 - A fine wide and grey dihedral, belay in the middle. 4°-, 20 m
Pitch 6 - Still up the dihedral, leading to a rocky notch from where easily on the summit of the spire. 4°, 3°, 2°, 30 m.

Descent: from the summit down to the saddle between the two points, cross a ridge westwards reaching a fixed anchor and abseil 25 m. After a brief downclimbing follow the scree gully for about 50 meters reaching another anchor. 2 abseils (20 + 20) to the base of the spire.

Essential gear

Me starting Guglia del Rifugio summit wall
Guglia del Rifugio summit wall

Ropes 2 x 55, helmet, some quickdraws, slings and a set of nuts

Red Tape

No fees no permits required. Anyhow be aware that the road starting from Pera di Fassa to Gardeccia is open to the private cars as far as the small hamlet of Soial. Private cars beyond Soial are not allowed. A shuttle bus service with numerous departures is available in Pera di Fassa in the chairlift car park.

Huts

Refuge Gardeccia
Refuge Gardeccia

- Rifugio Gardeccia
Situation: Gardeccia basin
Open: from June to the end of September - from Christmas to Easter open during the day (no overnight)
Size: 43 persons
Getting There: by walk from Soial, alternatively by minibus from the chair-lift station in Pera di Fassa
Phone: 0039 0462 763152 Mobile: 0039 335 7432677 - 0039 335 7432676








Refuge Stella Alpina
Refuge Stella Alpina

- Rifugio Stella Alpina
Situation: Gardeccia basin
Size: 50 persons
Getting There: by walk from Soial, alternatively by minibus from the chair-lift station in Pera di Fassa
Hut's phone : 0039 0462 760349

Other kinds of accomodation

Plenty of accomodation in Val di Fassa, different kinds: hotels, apartments, rooms, campings

When to Climb

Summertime (from June to the end of September)

Bibliography

"Arrampicare sul Catinaccio e dintorni" - Marco Bernardi, ed. Athesia 2009

“La nuova guida del Catinaccio” - Antonio Bernard, Ed. Mediterranee 2008

Map: Val di Fassa e Dolomiti Fassane - 1:25.000 - foglio 06 - Tabacco

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