El Chivo

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Sport Climbing
Spring, Fall, Winter

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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73.06% Score
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Page By:
El Chivo
Created On: Dec 5, 2007
Last Edited On: Dec 6, 2007

Locating 'El Chivo'

Actually, this route is easy to locate, as it is just around the corner from Billboard Buttress in Indian Cove. Upon entering Indian Cove and coming to the first stop sign within the campgrounds, turn left at the intersection. To ones immediate left is Billboard Buttress, home to several fun moderates. This formation is fairly popular since it is so close to the road and sees guided classes on the weekend. Upon passing this formation, locate another formation wall, recessed around the corner from Billboard and back behind the FIRST campsite on the left. This wall is called 'Bilbo Buttress'. The route can be spotted from the road by locating a large brown recess on the wall's left side. If the campsite is occupied, please be respectful and ask the occupants if its OK to pass through to the route.

The Route

Good protection with fun moves make this a worthwhile route - especially on those cold and windy days where an alcove facing south is often a sought after prize! The start of 'El Chivo' begins in an alcove with a series of steep (and somewhat loose with "kitty litter") flakes. Climb up these flake to the first bolt (15' up) and up into the brown recess. Traverse right, passing a left facing flake, and on to the second bolt. Passing the 2nd and 3rd bolt is the crux of the climb (sustained 5.8). Delicately pad out right onto vertical terrain using a slanting hand rail. Reach out and up to a small flat ledge (somewhat loose). For those under 6 feet in height, some may find this reach height dependant. Once past the small ledge, clip the third bolt and head straight up to a right leaning crack above. Continue past the crack and up to an anchor (2 drilled pitons with epoxy and 1 bolt, all with rap rings). Lower off.


(4) quickdraws
Anchor slings
Optional gear for features down low (if desired): .50 and .75 Camelot