Granny Goose, 5.7-5.11b

Overview/Preview

Granny Goose is one of three features clustered together just meters east of the Lost Horse Road junction with Park Blvd.  From west to east, you have Granny Goose, the Left Hand of Darkness and Ken Black Memorial Dome.  They sort of run together, but Hand of Darkness is a small wall recessed deeply into a brush laden alcove between Granny and Ken Black.  Granny Goose is just a meters walk right out of the parking area. 

Its namesake (Granny Goose route) is sort of a classic 5.7 by Jtree standards.  The two 5.8’s on the wall definitely deserve more love than Miramontes guide gives (0 stars).  They are both decent length and offer solid trad climbing and are better than many of the 5.8's he does give a recommendation in his guide.  They share the same start and finish:  Bryant Gumble on the right and Jane Pauley, on the left.  They are both good leads but Bryant Gumble is probably a bit more heady for the trad climber at his/her limit in terms of placing pro.  Uncle Fester, 5.10d*, offers a stellar laser cut tips to finger crack that lasts for 25’ before the route gets a lot easier.  The crux is a stiff layback move shortly off the deck.  There are no bolts or fixed anchors for the routes mentioned although some of the other routes have a few bolts.  All the routes face north for the most part.  Scramble off the formation to the west. 

Turn south on Lost Horse Road and park immediately in the main parking area with a rest room.  Walk west just a few meters to engage Granny Goose.

Routes Listed Right to Left on Approach, Facing the North Wall

Granny Goose- 50’-5.7*/ Worthy single star route in Miramontes guide.  Climb the northwestern arete of the namesake formation.   Short fun under-cling right to left, then up a crack to a shoulder below the summit.  Secure solo.  I descended back down to the base of the route just slightly skiers left.  Dow

Grandpa Gander- 50’-5.10c*/

Pump Up the Volume- 30’-5.11b/

Bryant Gumbel- 65’-5.8/ Both of these 5.8’s that share the same start and finish deserve a recommendation in the local guide despite not receiving one.  The author of the largest local guide book is a sport climber/photographer and does not know how to identify a good trad route.  This right-side version has a more attentive crux as you climb the closed corner at mid height and must reach to protect in an under-cling flake.  Then move back left to finish the fun and steep small roof corner above.  There is a loose flake stuck in the crack at the finish, so stem out and reach higher to avoid any issue.  Gear belay/top rope, scramble down climber’s right.  Single to #2.  Dow

Jane Pauley- 60’-5.8/ Same as Bryant. A solid pure trad route for the grade at Jtree.  Follow the mostly hands splitter to below a roof corner finish which feels exposed and steep.  Watch out for a loose “flake” stuck in the corner crack.  Just stem out wide and reach higher to avoid any issue.  Gear belay/top rope, scramble down climber’s right.  Single to #2.  Dow

Uncle Fester- 70’-5.10d*/ A perfect laser tips to fingers splitter off the deck is the crux (20’ tall).  Obviously protects bomber with micro cams to #.3.  The trick for me was a layback facing left.  Facing right during the layback looks more obvious for feet, but facing left gave more purchase for fingers.  After a couple of physical moves, you reach true fingers in short order and pull up over a horizontal.  From there it is way laid back from the grade up an easy crack that widens to the top where you can rig a gear belay/top rope, walk off climber’s right.  Single rack from micro to #2.  Dow

To Air is Human- 30’-5.10dR*/