Piglet Tip Toes, 5.9
End of a long day, tons of sun and medicinal supplements lent doubt to where we were and what we were climbing, but there is a high level of probability we were climbing on Heffalump
. I have long admired this "banana split" shaped stone located at the far-east reaches of Castle Rocks
. Thus we were dead set on reaching its summit regardless of which feature it was. We supposedly climbed Pork Chop
and Piglet Tip Toes
, both bolted 5.9 arête routes. Both were worthy and fun "end of the day" objectives on the east side (afternoon shade)
of the formation.
Heffalump’s east face overlooks the beautiful Eagle Grove
, a small wetland sanctuary to the east. The east face gets late afternoon shade. The topo in the guide seems a bit incomplete in that it does not show the 2nd summit pitch which leads the before mentioned east face routes to the summit. There are two fixed anchors allowing for a single rope rap down the east side.
Pork Chop, 5.9
The approach is relatively short thus making Heffalump a good start or finish destination at Castle Rocks
. We climbed on Comp Wall
all day and then finished on Heffalump on the way out. Hike down the road from the ranch house trail-head parking. At Fence Line Rock (a formation that helps form the existing fence line) enter a gate at the south end
. Follow the trail and signage east for Eagle Grove. Angle northeast to a small bridge across the creek
. Continue east for the objective straight ahead from the bridge. The only significant rock feature further east of Heffalump is a smaller formation located in the center of the lush Eagle Grove. A fence separates Eagle Grove from Heffalump’s east face. Pork Chop is easy to locate on the striking arête
that forms the left side of the east face. Piglet Tip Toes starts in the trees to the right below a small roof on the right side arête of the same face
. Both are fully bolted and share an easy secondary pitch that leads to the summit.
Route Description(s)Routes are Listed Left to Right, South to East
Pork Chop- 5.9**/ This is a fun arête sport route with physical (but easy for the grade) lay back moves up the arête. Either stop at the fixed anchor (up and right on a ledge) or continue to the summit of Heffalump via an easy bolted slab finish. Two single rope raps to the ground. Dow
Piglet Tip Toes- 5.9*/ As the name implies, this fully bolted route takes on some exquisite slab footwork for the grade. Move right from Pork Chop to the right side arête of the same wall. Pull a roof with fun and thoughtful moves. Above the roof is the slab crux move. I consider this one of the harder 5.9 moves at the City. Once through this mossy slab section, easy ground leads to the same upper finish to the summit as Pork Chop. Two single rope raps get you down. Dow