Bloody Fingers Wall and Corridor, 5.5-5.11a

Overview

Bloody Fingers, 5.10a

Bloody Fingers wall is home to one of the better crack pitches at City of Rocks, its namesake, Bloody Fingers (5.10a). The Falcon Guide claims that Intruding Dike (5.7) is another classic crack pitch (“super classic”) on this wall, but I beg to differ. The difference between the two routes, in comparison to other routes within their grade, is enormous. Bloody Fingers is superb from bottom to top, following one of the finer splitters in the park. Whereas Intruding Dike is broken up by a chasm and offers little in the way of 5.7 sustained climbing.

Bloody Fingers (aka Super Hits) wall is a small east facing wall located between Upper Breadloaves East and Provo Wall. Salt Lake City’s gym crowd hones in on the west faces of Breadloaves, in particularly what is known as Decadent Wall. For that reason I would be wary of trying to climb Bloody Fingers on the weekend during prime season at the City of Rocks. Even though most of these folks don’t appear capable of climbing a trad route at this grade, they can easily top rope it from the top of Intruding Dike. I have led or soloed all the routes published (2020) in this area and they are listed below.

EAST FACE  Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall

• Double Vision- 5.10a**/ Nice for a bolted slab line, five bolts through scoops and subtle mantels to a chain anchor.  Bolts protect the cruxes well.  You will use the right dike quite a bit towards the end.  Makes for fun edges.  Dow

• October- 5.8/ This wide corner located between Bloody Fingers and Double Vision gets little love. This fact is mostly attributed to the Bread Loaves area in general serving more as a climbing gym to Salt Lake City urbanites (dogs, boom boxes and crying babies) than its actual value as a varied, tall and challenging 5.8 trad lead.   Serving that community, the local guide book typically gives  more credence to poorly set and overly bolted sport climbs then it does to decent trad routes like October.  October is a steep (for the grade) left facing corner just to the right of one of my favorite moderate sport routes in the entire park, Double Vision, 5.10a.  It offers several cracks forcing the leader to evaluate where to best place gear and when to switch cracks.  It features a few chimney like moves along with some flared crack/flake climbing.  No bolts.  Can set up a gear belay/rap with medium gear.  Can rap Double Vision when done.  Gear to #3.  Dow

• Bloody Fingers- 5.10a****/ My first route at the City and it is a good one.  Stem up to a hand pocket and make a single, but fun, athletic move (for those less experienced).  From there place gear at will up the splitter. Bloody Fingers is quite aesthetic to look at from the road. My second via the first time I climbed it did bloody his fingers, thus the name no doubt. If you are use to finger cracks, that shouldn’t be an issue. There are plenty of gratuitous hand jams as well. This is not the hardest 5.10a in the park by a long shot and would be 5.9 at many locations. Full rack to hands. 70m rope definitely works, 60m might as well. Dow

• New Toy- 5.10bR*/ ”Constant danger of injury if you fall” as stated in the guide Ithought was slightly exaggerated.  Thecrux move is more difficult than Double Vision but New Toy is not as sustained as Double.  The crux is after the firstbolt as I recall and full on at the grade if for no other reason it is hard tofigure out the sequence the first time. Second half ofthe route eases way up as you land at the Bloody Finger anchor.  Fully, but sparsely, bolted.  Goodwin route from the 80’s.  Dow

• Dorworth's Chimney- 5.6*/ A fun realtively clean solo for the competent soloist.  Dow

• Twist and Crawl- 5.8***/ Twist and Crawl is a typical Jtree 5.6 that somehow gets “3 stars” in Bingham’s book as a 5.8.   It climbs the arête just to the right of the iconic Bloody Fingers.  Climb run out, but easy, scooped face to the first bolt, then follow the bolts up to a seem.  Place whatever gear you want really and finish to the summit where there are chains.  Mixed. Rap chains on top, might take a 70m to get down to the soft dirt. Dow

CORRIDOR FACING NORTH  Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall

• Intruding Dike- 5.7***/ Not that impressed. Not sustained for the grade. Do not understand the high rating and popularity. I did do Bloody Fingers first, perhaps that blurred my vision, but I don't think so. Worth skipping out on for sure. Hand crack through bulge, than stem over chasm to second wall and follow 5th class to top. Can rap Bloody Fingers straight down from the summit with a 70m if not a 60m as well if no one is on it or walk off the south. Dow

• Hough’s Crack- 65’-5.7*/ Secure (cracks) but steep solo objective.  Takes all the gear you want to take if leading, it takes anything.  It zig zags a bit making an interesting lead I would think for the budding leader at the grade.   Go up and right at the finish.  Descend the Descent Route down a ramp on the right, a single 5.5 move involved on the descent.  Dow

• Featured Face- 50’-5.7R*/ Huge jugs up steep terrain.  Maybe 5.5 anywhere really.   Descend the Descent Route down a ramp on the right, a single 5.5 move involved.  Dow

• Breezeway- 45-5.6*/ Again, maybe 5.4 if even.  Secure solo.  Descend the Descent Route down a ramp on the right, a single 5.5 move involved.  Dow

• Descent Route- 20-5.5/ Just one or two moves near the bottom.  Descend a ramp on the right side of the wall and lower yourself on two shallow pot holes.  Traverse climbers left and use more positive features to lower yourself to the ground.  Dow

External Links

• City of Rocks National Reserve
• Castle Rock State Park
• Rock City, the place for beers