Jorge and Joanne Urioste climbing Original Route
Lost Arrow Spire does not quite live up to its namesake in Yosemite, but for a 5.7 lead (Original Route, 5.7***
) at the City, it would be hard to beat. Although I have never placed any trad gear on it (makes for a great solo climb as well as has quite a bit of fixed gear on it as of 2017), it gives the aspiring trad leader ample choice to do so in conjunction with approximately four or five fixed pins. It also offers a true tower summit with a free air rap. So a pretty neat climb. The rap is on top of an excellent looking sport climb named Body Buster (5.12a***)
. The full page photo in the 2017 edition guide book makes the Original Route look much more vertical than it actually is. They turned the photo on its side. This original route is easy to lead in one pitch, simply extend the piton clips on the first pitch. The second pitch is 5th class at best anyway with no gear. Fixed rap on the summit for a 70m rope.
There are two approaches you can use to reach Lost Arrow and No Start wall. My preference is to park at the Flaming Rock trail-head
and descend past Flaming Rock and Bumble Rock on their western flanks. Continue on the trail north pass Bumble Rock and through a fence heading west and eventually past Lady J on the left and then shortly after turn left on a trail cutting back north to in-between No Start Wall and Lost Arrow. Follow a decent trail up and left through some old trees to the base of an obvious flake. A shallow corner to the left of the flake has a piton in it (2017). This is the original route. Body Buster is on the rap line.
Route Description (s)Northeast Face, Routes Listed Left to Right
Dying for Exposure- 150’-5.8X/
Original Route- 170’-5.7***/How this route does get four stars in the local guidebook when compared to Wheat Thin (5.7****), etc., is beyond me. Lost Arrow is arguably the most aesthetic piece of rock (tower) in the City. Not surprising that the urban Utah crowd might deem it less appealing due to the longer approach even though there is plenty to climb once you get there as well as the hike is through some of the more scenic vistas the City has to offer. The first pitch runs up an easy right facing flake/corner and then angles back right following below a roof crack with positive features the whole way. The crux (at the grade) is exiting this crack to the belay ledge. There are quite a few quality pitons (2017) even though the guidebook calls them “ancient” (they are not by any standard). You can also place all the gear you prefer in the roof crack as you angle up and right. If you want a cool photo of your second (what they took for the guidebook and then stood on end to make it look steeper), stop and build a hanging belay at the top of the crack, otherwise take a comfortable belay further up. If you are willing to extend the pro on the first pitch, you can easily do this as one pitch to the top. The second pitch is 5th class up a well featured wall up and left and then back right up 5th class sculptured slab. The rap can be made with one 70m rope down an impressive route named Body Buster (5.12a***). Dow
Northwest Face, Routes Listed Left to Right
Body Buster- 100’-5.12a***/
Fists of Fury- 80’-5.11b*/
Forcash and Riches- 40’-5.11a**/