Incisor (aka Morning Glory), 5.5-5.12b

Incisor (aka Morning Glory), 5.5-5.12b

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 42.08243°N / 113.72169°W
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Additional Information Elevation: 6400 ft / 1951 m
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Real Rabbit RockReal Rabbit Rock

Incisor (also known as Morning Glory Spire) is the most aesthetic granite spire at City of Rocks. Aptly named, Incisor’s walls rise to its sharp summit and offer the best collection of pure trad climbs in the park. One of the more popular routes in all of City of Rocks is Skyline (5.8) which is located on Incisor’s north facing arête. Skyline follows hand cracks at first and then turns into jugs higher up whilst protecting in horizontal cracks. It is a long pitch requiring a double rope rap. A moderate trad route on Incisor I like more than Skyline is the Chimney (5.8) route which runs up its west face. This pitch offers twin cracks at first, then some true chimney climbing broken up to enter yet another chimney that finishes with a fun and easy small roof pull. Again, this pitch is a long one with interesting features. A 70m rope will get you down from the routes on this end. To the right of the Chimney is Crack of Doom (5.11c) which might be the best climb in the entire park featuring an incredible splitter that supposedly was featured in a Powerbar advertisement for many years. Crack of Dung (5.10a) is a sandbagged route full guessed it, bird shit. The route offers a stellar finger crack recessed into a flaring chimney and then opens up to a chimney climb requiring C4 #6 size to protect. All of the select routes listed below (11)face west to a certain extent.

Route Description(s)

Skyline, 5.8
Chimney, 5.8

Select Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall

  • Skyline- 5.8/
  • Thought this route to be a bit over rated....I thought the "Chimney" route was much more challenging and interesting.....worth doing both though. The obvious crux is a traverse (left) slab move with a under cling that you can see from below. Standard rack to 2”, double rope rap. Dow

  • Fall Line- 5.10b/

  • Acceptable Risk- 5.10d/

  • Brown Flake- 5.10d/

  • Strategic Defense- 5.11c/

  • Chimney- 5.8/
  • I enjoyed this route much more than Skyline myself, after leading them both back to back. "Chimney" has more sustained climbing and involves more thought. Twin cracks allow tons of gear, hand and finger jams. Eventually I switched to chimney technique as the lower chimney breaks up and it leads into an even deeper slot. Chimney up while protecting to the left, moving right at the end to pull the airy roof above with an easy hand jam. Full rack, 70m rope. Dow

  • Power Tools- 5.12b/

  • Crack of Doom- 5.11c/
  • Not just at the grade, but close to if not the best route I have climbed at the City (Yellow Wall prob still deserves that title). The traverse in from the deck is interesting...some special footwork for me. The fingers went very nice with a foot behind me. The hands were so good and steep. Excellent route deserving of all the praise one can heap on it. The 5.10 to the right (Crack of Dung) is worth doing as well. Dow

  • Crack of Dung- 5.10a/
  • Tough pitch of climbing for me, a flaring chimney with a finger crack deep in opens up to a true chimney with easier climbing. Take a C4 #6 to protect the upper half as the finger crack closes down. Easier chimney like climbing up above, but run out. Its name is quite appropriate, plenty of pigeon crap and a live pigeon nesting in June. Small pieces for the finger section you can see, then two C4#6’s if you really want to protect the chimney above or walk one piece that large. 70m rope. Dow

  • Siesta- 5.11a/

  • Easiest Route- 5.5/
  • External Links

  • City of Rocks National Reserve
  • Castle Rocks State Park
  • Rock City, the place for beers