Manure Pile, 5.5-5.12a

Overview/Approach

I had climbed over a 1000 routes at Joshua Tree before I even considered climbing the Manure Pile, an aptly named collection of short objectives located in the middle of the Ryan Campground.  Years ago, in fact my first visit ever in the park, I would camp at Ryan.  Hidden Valley campground was always a scene: dogs, music, shit, accidents, site stealing, basic mayhem.  Hidden, long ago, had become a place to talk more about climbing than actually doing it.  Ryan used to be quiet.  But as the park became more popular with the west coast masses, it too became a zoo.  I have not camped in the park for years.  Manure Pile is a short group of walls surrounded by the campsites.  There are no stellar routes here.  But in my quest to tick off my 2^nd 1000, I finally got on a few on a cold and windy weekday when no one was around.  Tom Bombadil, 5.7*, is probably the best route of the bunch, combining a horizontal crack traverse with a left leaning weakness/crack.  Deception, 5.10a, has a fun slab move at the grade to get started.

Park at the Ryan Campground toilets.  There are several spots there for non-campers.  Walk 1-2 minutes east to the south facing wall in the middle of the campground loop.  The first five routes are located on this southwest face.  The 6^th one is located on the southeast face around to the right.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the Southwest Facing Wall

Allen Steck Memorial- 5.8*/

Almighty- 5.12a*/

Tom Bombadil- 40’-5.7*/ There is a convoluted bolted route just to the right (Three Amigos, 5.10b) that is not in the local guide as of 2023.  This could confuse some.  Tom Bomdadil is one of three on the left side of the south face of the Manure Pile.  It is located just left of the obvious chimney which is also not in the local guide as of 2023, but named on MP.com as Dutch Doll Gutter, 5.4.  There are two variation starts. The direct version is not well protected and according to the tics on MP.com, is sandbagged at the grade.  The FA version comes in from the right via a hand rail of sorts, to gain a weakness that trends up and left.    Once you make a physical move up and over the starting horizontal, you find plenty of gear.  Near the top, the route trends left to a wide hand crack on lower angled ground to the top.  Walk off or downclimb back to a fixed quick link (2023) on the bolted route to the right to rap.  Single to #3.  Dow

Barely Crankin’- 45’-5.5*/ Barely Crankin’ is in the middle of the face that is right of the obvious chimney.  Deception, 5.10-, is a bolted route that shares this same wall and is located to the right.  Nothing exciting, just straight up jugs to the top.  Secure solo but there also seemed to be plenty of gear opportunities if one wanted to lead it.  Rap Deception.  Dow

Decepticon- 45’-5.10a*/ The bolted route on the right side of the south face of Manure Pile.  Three bolts seemed to be where they needed to be.  The crux is through the first bolt, typical south facing dirty slab by Jtree standards.  The rest of the climbing is below grade, finishing on a crack to a gear anchor with a fixed rap further right.  Three draws plus a few finger pieces for those not comfortable with a little runout below grade. Dow

Camp Whore- 5.11a/