One of the more popular scrambles starting from the Smith-Dorrien, Spray Lakes road. This dome shaped peak like others in the area, gets its name from ships involved and destroyed in the WW I sea battle "Jutland". In all the British lost 14 ships (4 blew up by themselves due to faulty storage of cordite used to propell the shells). The Germans lost 11. Approximately 8,000 seamen lost their lives in one of the the largest sea battles in history.
A 4-8 hour round trip, this moderate scramble is described well in Alan Kane’s Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies
pages 104-105, which is a recommended purchase.
Excellent views of the surrounding area. Mount Shark (2,786 metres), Mount Smuts (2,938 metres), and Commonwealth peak (2,775 metres), among others. In the distance if the weather cooperates, Mt. Assinaboine
, Mt. Joffre
, and Mount Sir Douglas
can be seen.
Elevation gain 1,150 metres
Head out of Canmore on the Smith-Dorrien/Spray Lakes road past the Grassi Lakes and the Goat Creek day use parking. Continue on the unpaved Spray lakes road for about 45km. Turn left at the large Chester lake parking, this is about 3 kms from the Engadine Lodge road. Park here in this large parking lot. Don't leave items visible in the back of your car. This area can see a lot of traffic why tempt anyone including bears. Follow the logging road east as it gradually becomes a trail. When the trail reaches a creek (that drains Chester Lake) before the lake turn south and cross the stream and ascend the meadow angling up towards the col west of the mountain. Follow the the slope to the saddle. From here you will have to scramble up the left on slabs or right on scree (your choice). It is described in the Scrambles book. Due to its height there can be snow on this peak even in the summer season so dress and choose footwear accordingly.
No red tape. This is a day trip. 4-8 hours
Don't leave items visible in the back of your car. Why tempt fate
When To Climb
Spray Lake Ranger Station. (403) 678-5533
Alberta Tourist Visitor Centre (403) 678-5277
The Alpine Club of Canada (403) 678-3200, ext 1
or (403) 762-2088 for weather conditions
The summer months would be the most popular. June to end of September.
Due to the fragility of the area there is no camping on the mountain and surrounding area.
There are other campgrounds in the area if desired.
Spray Lakes West Shore Campground has 50 sites (403) 591-7226
There is also the Alpine Club of Canada lodge with rooms and excellent facilities of 19$ CDN a night. The Alpine Club of Canada (403) 678-3200, ext 1
Engadine Lodge is a good base camp if you want some comfort at the end of the day.
Box 40025 Canmore, Alberta T1W 3H9
Tel.: (403) 678-4080
E mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
Web address www.mountengadine.com
The Alpine Club of Canada
Joining a club such as The Alpine Club of Canada is recommended when climbing in Canada. While it is not obligatory, useful information can be had at any of their Clubhouse in Canmore, or at their website which is open to everyone.
Staying at the club in Canmore is 19$ Canadian for members and a little more for non-members. It can get quite crowded in the summer so a reservation is recommended.