Lamb Dome, 5.9-5.10c

Overview/Approach

 
Lamb and Drug Dome are two of the more obscure domes in Yosemite despite their close proximity to the road. They are located just west of the much more popular Fairview and Daff Domes. Lamb and Drug are positioned side by side and you would practically run into Drug Dome if you kept straight on one of the bent stretches of road through Tuolumne Meadows. Each feature offers approximately half a dozen routes. Most of the climbing on the Lamb Dome is centered along its northwest face. Typical of most domes in Yosemite you could scramble or hike to the summit via just about half of its slopes, offering just one main steep face.

On the Lamb (5.9) on Lamb Dome offers one of the more interesting climbing features in Yosemite, a never ending horizontal break across the top of its west face. The best way to finish this climb is to combine it with Jailbreak (5.9), a relatively new two pitch bolted line to the summit. Brossman and Stephans established On the Lamb in ’74. Little Sheeba (5.10a) is a stellar single pitch crack climb located lower down the west face. Carpet Crawler (5.10R/X) breaks through the obvious large roof on the lower right side of the west face.

A lot seems to be made about the approach to On the Lamb, by far the most popular route on Lamb Dome. First of all, in typical Yosemite form, it takes only minutes from the road to reach the base of the route. Second, the main feature that makes up this climb is unmistakable when staring at the wet face of Lamb Dome. It is the horizontal break that covers the entire west face at about 2/3rds height. You can climb the route from either direction, but if you want to take the recommended Jailbreak finish, you need to climb On the Lamb from left to right.

On MP.com they reference parking one mile east of Fairview. What they meant to write is approximately one mile west of the parking for Fairview Dome. At a corner in the road there is a decent sized parking area on the south side. Drug Dome is straight ahead, Lamb Dome is due east of Drug Dome. They sort of almost share a col. In any regard, hike up the well-established trail south from the parking area. Turn left on another well- established trail that cuts back northeast. When at the northeast end of Lamb Dome, hike straight up to the base of a tall corner for On the Lamb. Little Sheeba and Carpet Crawler are even closer from the parking, further to the right.

Route Description(s)

The Routes are Listed Left to Right as you Face the West Wall


• Five Ten, You Wuss- 3 Pitches- 5.10c/


• On the Lamb- 5 Pitches- 5.9/
The third roped pitch for us, fourth official pitch of the climb, is by far the crux pitch which includes a full 40’ of no feet as you traverse a positive hand rail across the steep face. What adds to the exhilaration of this exposed pitch is that the crux starts just on the far side of a small arête, so you have no vision of it until you are already on lead and moved out from the belay a good 80’ or so. Jailbreak starts at the end of this pitch. The exposed face climbing on Jailbreak’s second pitch is pretty decent in its own right. Dow


• Jailbreak- 2 Pitches- 5.9/
The second pitch is an exciting pitch at the grade. There are two bolted lines. The one directly above the first pitch belay is the last pitch to a route named Sleeper. Take off left following the left angled dike clipping bolts. The first 30’ is run out for some reason but the route is well bolted from there. Dow


• Sleeper- 2 Pitches- 5.9R-X/
Chris (Super Topo) has it as X on the topo but just R on the list. I am thinking this one is just R. I climbed the first pitch from On the Lamb to Jailbreak (combine with Little Sheeba for best link up on the dome) and after you climb through two run out sections above two bolts you are at a fixed station where Jailbreak intersects. You see a bolt half way up. Looks tame R to me with little to no ledges, but maybe after you turn onto the less angled face above it gets serious. Getting from the second bolt to the first station on pitch one might be X if you miss just below the station as there is some ledgy stuff right below On the Lamb. Dow


• Little Sheeba- Single Pitch- 5.10a/
Not that hard to find.  Lined up on the very lower wall below the right hand side of On the Lamb.  There are two sets of trees that match the topo (meaning set up in a row).  It is below the west group. Excellent single pitch for the grade.  I think I read somewhere that it climbs better than it looks and that is true.  The crux is fingers mid-way via a few less-positive moves.  No need for a #3.  Off sets are nice as almost always in a finger crack.  Rap anchor below trees. Pretty sweet start to On the Lamb.  Little Sheeba-On the Lamb-Sleeper-Jailbreak, my favorite link up to the summit.  Dow

• Little Sheeba Continuation- 2 Pitches- 5.10a/


• Carpet Crawler- 2 Pitches- 5.10aR/X/

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