"Petite Capucin"

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California, United States, North America
12250 ft / 3734 m
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Created On: Mar 31, 2009
Last Edited On: Dec 7, 2009


"Petite Capucin” (Elevation ca. 12,250 feet)
Sawtooth Ridge
Yosemite National Park, California, USA

The "Petite Capucin" is a tower northeast of Matternhorn Peak. It is an impressive and familiar sight for those hiking across the Matterhorn Glacier to the north face of Matterhorn Peak.

The rock is a fine-grained granite with numerous horizontal dikes.

The first recorded climb of the “Petite Capucin” was in 1972. The second recorded climb was in 1979. Both routes are on the north face.

 Petite Capucin The north faces of "Petite Capucin" and Matterhorn Peak

Getting There

The approach to the "Petite Capucin”is the same for the North Arete of Matterhorn Peak.


There are only two documented routes on the “Petite Capucin.” Both are on the north face.

-North face (II, 5.8, 1972)
The location of this route is unclear.

-Pillar Route (III, 5.10, 1979)
This route is significant because it involves jumping (!) from the summit of The Pillar over to a ledge on the main tower.

If you know of any other routes on the “Petite Capucin,” please add them or contact me.


Rappell southwest, into Matterhorn Peak's East Couloir. This photos shows the descent route:

Petite Capucin at the Bottom of the East CouloirThe southwest side of "Petite Capucin" from Matterhorn Peak's East Couloir. Photo by vladislav

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