The "Petite Capucin" is a tower northeast of Matternhorn Peak. It is an impressive and familiar sight for those hiking across the Matterhorn Glacier to the north face of Matterhorn Peak. The rock is a fine-grained granite with numerous horizontal dikes. The first recorded climb of the “Petite Capucin” was in 1972. The second recorded climb was in 1979. Both routes are on the north face.
There are only two documented routes on the “Petite Capucin.” Both are on the north face. -North face (II, 5.8, 1972) The location of this route is unclear. -Pillar Route (III, 5.10, 1979) This route is significant because it involves jumping (!) from the summit of The Pillar over to a ledge on the main tower. If you know of any other routes on the “Petite Capucin,” please add them or contact me.
Rappell southwest, into Matterhorn Peak's East Couloir. This photos shows the descent route:
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