Pep Boys Crag, 5.8-5.11c

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
California, United States, North America
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
174 Hits
71.06% Score
Log in
to vote
Page By:
Pep Boys Crag, 5.8-5.11c
Created On: Apr 30, 2018
Last Edited On: May 2, 2018

Overview/Approach

Pep Boys Crag, East End
Pep Boys Crag, East End

Pep Boys Crag is one of the many "Roadside Rocks" along the main park road just west of Intersection Rock.   It is a long and narrow feature with climbing at each end, east and west, and not much in between.  A highlight, which can be seen from the road at the east end, is a clean cut overhanging corner with an off width/chimney section down low that leads to overhanging tips near the top:  Yabo Phone Home, 5.10c*.  This is a fun and physical short trad route.  A much less challenging corner just to the right is Yaborrhea, 5.8*, which is worth doing as well.  At the opposite end of the formation (west) is a route that climbs better than it looks:  Fingertip Traverse of Josh, 5.8*.  Fingertip is just a one minute approach from a pullout along the road.

Heading west from the intersection (Intersection Rock), park at the second pull out which is on the left side of the road.  Pep Boys Crag is the formation you are looking at.  Fingertip Traverse is at this west end and the Yabo routes are at the other end and are best reached by simply walking back east between the formation and the road and looking for the clean cut corner up on the right above the col between Pep Boys and what is named the Road Block which has a worthwhile route above this col as well:  Immaculate Conception, 5.9*.

Route Descriptions

East End, Left to Right

Yaborrhea, 5.8*
Dow leading Yaborrhea, 5.8*

Yabo Phone Home- 30’-5.10c*/ This is a cool climb despite being short. From the approach this is the clean (fresh looking, brown in color) right facing dihedral that is deep enough to shade itself. The climb is split up in two sections by a standing ledge. The first 15’ is C4#4 off width that starts with a knee jam. You can pretty much always claim a fist and one more good knee jam as well. Maybe one flared chimney move thrown in before you make a physical mantel onto the ledge. The crux of the climb is the sketchy pro on the final 15’ above the ledge. You can get a precarious C4#3 in a shallow grove below the first hole in the closed corner, but the 2nd hole , although positive fingers, takes no gear. Stem off of vertical edges out right and make the crux move from the finger hole to an edge. There is a good foot you attain out right as well, on a varnished bump. Small to medium gear belay/top rope. For descent, burrow down through a short tunnel climbers left back to the ledge that serves as the base of the climb. Dow

 Yaborrhea- 35’-5.8*/ The finger corner just to the right of Yabo Phone. Climb the thin crack with micro pro up to a suspect block. Yard on it to jugs up and right. Not the same gear belay, but same descent as Yabo Phone. Micro to small gear. Dow


West End, Left to Right

The Three Best Friends You Ever Had- 55’-5.10c*/

Fingertip Traverse of Josh- 60’-5.8*/ This route climbs better than it looks.  It is alone at the very northwest face of Pep Boys and does not look worthy but it is actually fun for the grade.  Climb various cracks up to a finger crack rightward traverse over the left side black varnish spot on the face.  This traverse starts with mantling your feet over a small roof, then up an easy hand crack to the top of the formation.  A fixed belay, not rap, is down and left.  Can walk off climbers left.   Small gear.  Dow

We Must Improve Our Bust- 40’-5.11c*/

Strain Gauge- 40’-5.10b*/

Flim-Flam Man- 25’-5.11c*/