Ravine (Wi3 M4)

Page Type
Route
Location:
Oregon, United States, North America
Route Type:
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mixed
Season:
Spring, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
Wi3 M4
Number of Pitches:
2
Grade:
II

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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81.17% Score
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Page By:
Ravine (Wi3 M4)
Created On: Aug 19, 2012
Last Edited On: Aug 28, 2012

Route

Very adventurous climb. When in condition it provides a great full pitch of solid ice with a few crux sections along the way. Route starts out with easy ice and progresses to a steep and a little overhanging bulge (crux). When we climbed it, the bulge did not have great placements for feet and required some fun move (M4ish) to be passed. Ice flow was thick and offered solid protection opportunities. As with any ice climb, conditions could make it significantly easier or harder.

RavineClimbing up the route. Beautiful ice in a superb location.


I was also able to place a # 1 BD Camalot (Red) and # 3 Metolious (orange). Aside from these two placements I did not see other opportunities for rock pro. After the bulge is passed, follow more fun ice till you reach the snow couloir. It is a full pitch with about 50M of fun ice climbing in a superb setting. Belay from snow pickets in the couloir (which is not as steep as it looks from Cathedral ridge).
Follow the couloir right and over. Solo, simul solo, or belay from the top. Join the North Face route and continue to the Summit.

RavineAnastasiya traversing towards the ice line

FA of route- Spring 2012 Vitaliy Musiyenko and Anastasiya Blagoveshenskaya

Getting There

The route goes straight up and to the right of the Cathedral Spire. Prominent snow couloir partly comes into sun and produces a water ice flow on the steep wall bellow it.
To approach, traverse towards Cathedral Spire bellow Eliot headwall or hike up the glacier passing the shrund. In my opinion the easiest way to approach is to hike up over the summit via hogsback, drop down, and traverse under the Eliot HW.
We camped right across from the route in a beautiful setting.
Summit campingour tent as viewed from the summit

It could easily be done as a car to car climb. Good cardio day, great alpine setting, with a pitch of superb climbing...and NO LINE!

Protection

5-10 ice screws (depending on comfort level)
BD #1 camalot (red)
Metolious #3 (orange)
2-4 pickets

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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Bob Burd

Bob Burd - Aug 25, 2012 2:09 pm - Hasn't voted

Problem with GPX file

It appears you saved the GPX file as a .jpg file instead. It must be a .gpx file to be useful. Try clicking on the "View route on map" link and you'll see the problematic result.

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Aug 28, 2012 12:47 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Problem with GPX file

It was a mistake. Have not made any pages in a while and thought that box was for uploading main route image haha.

Bob Burd

Bob Burd - Aug 28, 2012 10:11 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Problem with GPX file

Sadly, there appears to be no way to delete the incorrect GPX file.

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