Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 45.63157°N / 7.01417°E
Additional Information Elevation: 11437 ft / 3486 m
Sign the Climber's Log


Testa del Rutor (Ruitor) is the highest summit of an huge and icey castlelike mountain between the Massiccio del Monte Bianco and the Alpi Graje/Vanoise region. 90% of the mountain are situated east of the main ridge between France and Italy. The groups highest point on the border between these two countries is the Becca du Lac (3396 m). The group also hosts one of Italy's biggest glaciers in the western Alps. The Ghiacciaio del Rutor is no typical alpine glacier, it resembles instead the scandinavian "Inlandeis". The easiest and most commonly used route starts from la Thuile in the north. The ascent is technically easy but still very long and there can be some problems concerning the orientation until you reach the glacier. The Testa del Rutor is rarely climbed except for the Alpini (italian military) who often visit the mountain for training. West of the "madonna summit", where 99,99% of the climbers stop, there is a rocky tower which might be one or two metres higher.
Testa del Rutor
il monte Doravidi mt. 3439...

Getting There

Getting to Aosta:

Take a look at the Grivola page!

Getting to La Thuile (northern normal route):

From Aosta take the highway in direction of the Monte Bianco tunnel, leave it in Pré-Saint-Didier and climb up the Colle del Piccolo San Bernardo (2189 m) until you arrive in La Thuile (1441 m). In La Thuile take the small street which enters the valley at Rutor's foot (direction south) The street ends in La Joux (1650 m/parking)

Getting to the top (technically easy, F+):

From La Joux it takes two and a half hours to reach the Rifugio Deffeyes. From the hut to the top there are another 3-4 hours of ascent. Ice axe, crampons and a rope are necessary!

Getting to Bonne in Valgrisenche (southern normal route):

From Aosta drive in direction of the Monte Bianco tunnel. The Valgrisenche ist the westernmost of all important valleys south of the main valley (Valle d'Aosta) between Aosta and Pré-Saint-Dider. Arvier is the small village situated at the entrance of the valley. Enter the Valgrisenche and drive until you arrive in Bonne [1810 m/Lago di Beauregard (artificial lake)] If your car allows it you can even drive up to Arp Vieille (2200 m) where the street definitely ends.

Getting to the top (technically easy, F+):

From Bonne it takes about 3 hours to reach Rifugio Scavarda. From there 2-3 more hours are necessary to reach the top. No overnight, early start is a must. Ice axe, Crampons and a rope are indispensable.

Red Tape

No permits are required, there are no fees at all and the trailhead-parking in la Joux or Bonne is for free. The mountain stands outside the Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, so the rules for wildlife and conservation are not so strict, but in the end that should not make any difference! The Rifugio Deffeyes is open only in summer and on spring weekends on request. The hut also has a winter-section with 18 places.

When To Climb

Best time to climb the mountain is from mid June to mid September.
Ski ascents in sring (April/May) have to be awesome!
Ascents in Winter are longer and harder but absolutely possible and technically easy.


Camping on the mountain is allowed.

Rifugio Alberto Deffeyes

Rifugio Scavarda (2912 m)

Refuge du Ruitor (2022 m/french side, extremely long ascent, not recommended)
Opens on reservation

Camping Rutor
La Thuile (Frazione Villaret)

Hotels of every category except for luxury in La Thuile

Mountain Conditions

weather conditions: Bollettino meteorologico VdA

weather conditions:

Regione Valle d'Aosta

Lords of the castle

The main summits of the Rutor group

Testa del Rutor (3486 m) Italy
Doravidi (3439 m) Italy
Becca du Lac (3396 m) France/Italy
Vedette (3332 m) Italy
Mont Paramont (3300 m) Italy
Gran Becca du Mont (3214 m) France/Italy
Grande Assaly (3174 m) France/Italy

Miscellaneous Info

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