A nice little peak but very much dominated by its much higher neighbors to its left and right. Despite this, it does see a large number of assents and there is usually a well worn path to its summit. It can be reached from either the Zermatt side from the Rothorn Hut or the Zinal side from the Mountet Hut.
Most parties wishing to traverse from one valley to the other usually go over this peak, as the route is easy, the views great, one bags another peaks and finally one avoids the rather unpleasant “Triftjoch”.
It is one of those peaks that has a dual personality from the Zinal side it looks like a genial snow hill while on Zermatt side there is a menacing rock face.
The normal route up from the Rothorn is a simple AD ridge climb with an interesting chimney at its finish. The other normal route from the Mountet hut is an F snow plod with no time on rock.
The north face is also an interesting option from the Zinal side though it is a little short and low angled for many serious north face aficionados. It does make an excellent beginners route as it short, low angled, has little objective danger, a minor Bergshrun and an easy retreat.
This is a good training or acclimatization peak which gives great and unique close up views of the Zinalrothorn and the north face of the Ober Gabelhorn and the other mountains such as Dent Blanc and the others of the Walais.
The first assent was by W. Béreneck in 1872 from the Zermatt side via the normal route.
For the Nomal routes one starts from the Mountet Hut check out the Zinal Rothorn
page for full details on how to get there.
When To Climb
Any time of year, but it is most covenant when the huts are open in the early spring and late summer.
In winter the North-East Ridge is a good ski mountaineering route
Yes but stay well away from the hut and ask if you can use the WC.
There is not much room for a tent anywere near the Mountet hut so you may have to camp quite far away.
The Rothorn side offers better options.
Whats in a Name
Don't have much on this one there is a stream called Trift (Triftbach) and a gorge (Triftschlucht) which flow down from it. So it most likely takes its names form these.
There is also a nice hotel Berggasthaus Trift
which is a nice place to stay if the Rothorn hut is too crowded for you.