Triple Buttress, 5.10-5.12

Overview/Approach

Triple Buttress is one of the many overlooked craggin’ areas in Long Canyon.  Maverick Buttress receives 100 times more climbing traffic due to its much shorter approach, but several routes on Triple Buttress rival anything on Maverick Buttress.  In particular an unnamed corner (aka Ruckman Route in the local guide and Long 5.10 on MP.com) on the right side of the middle buttress (aka Bond Buttress or Buttress #2).  Of the 1000’s of pitches I have climbed near Moab, many on classic towers, this single long and amazing pitch is one of the finest for sure.  From there, the good climbing on this center buttress gets stiffer via several recommended 5.12’s further to the northwest, one of which reaches the top of the buttress in four pitches.  The other two buttresses leave a lot to be desired in terms of rock quality and established routes in general.  The most northwestern buttress, aka Buttress #3, is easily reached without descending from the middle buttress, but its obvious great looking splitter, Pussy Galore, 5.10, requires 5^th class scrambling through soft choss to reach its base.  The far-left buttress, aka Buttress #1, offers only two published (2022) routes.  Onatopp, 5.10, is the most in line with the kind of climbing offered on the unnamed corner on the middle buttress but is also a water course and is typically quite sandy.

Triple Buttress is well shaded in October and combines well with Maverick Buttress for several good days of climbing in terms of avoiding the sun whereas the majority of the climbing destinations in Long Canyon are located on south facing walls and are best for winter climbing.  You can reach Long Canyon from Utah road 313 in northern Canyonlands (my preferred access) or from Potash Road, west of Wall Street.  The average climbing tourist would approach from Potash Road traveling 13.5 miles west of Highway 191.  Turn right on Long Canyon Road (no sign, dirt road, high clearance recommended at its higher reaches).  Triple Buttress is on the west rim at approximately 1.3 miles from Potash Road.  There is ample parking at a soft pull out on the left.  Make a causal hike up the main slope leading to the middle buttress.  The approach is more than the tourist class from Indian Creek would appreciate but does not require much effort for anyone fit.

Routes Listed Left to Right, Facing the Buttresses

Buttress #1

Onatopp- 200’-5.10/ This route is given preference in the local guide but is a dirty/sandy route that is rarely climbed.  The vast majority of climbers humping up to the Triple Buttress area are aiming to climb on the middle buttress.  Few climb routes on the other two buttresses.  The first section of Onatopp (can be broken into 2 or 3 pitches or climbed as one) offers the best climbing, #3 large hands and/or small fists two thirds of the way to a fixed rap anchor located out left, with #2’s to finish the final section to the anchor itself.  A very sandy left facing corner, pure crack with no face features.  The 2nd section is much more chossy and involves both smaller and wider gear.  The last section is all wide.  Can rap the route with a single 60m rope (2022).  Double #.5 to #4 with several extra #3’s.  Dow

Unnamed- 80’-5.11/

Buttress #2 (aka Bond Buttress)

Triple Shaft Driven- 2 Pitches-5.11/

Just Whistling Dixie- 135’-5.11/

Solar Flare- 50’-5.10/

Jaws- 70’-5.11/

Unnamed Corner (aka Long Corner or Ruckman Route)- 165’-5.10/ This route gets the highest recommendation in the local guide and deserves it.  This route reminds me of Brush Painted Datsun in Day Canyon, which is also one of my favorite single pitch climbs in SE Utah.  The guide as well as someone on MP.com, insinuate you need mostly #2’s.  In reality, it is mostly #3’s.  I had six #3's and have a high tolerance for run out.  You could take as many as you wish and probably not regret it.  Starts in a tight hands left facing corner that turns into #3’s the rest of the way until near the end.  I placed two #1’s to start, some folks might want more for that initial section.  The guide says “great hands” but only for the very large climber.  Otherwise, it is that awkward size between a good fist and large hands for most of the route.  Small bulge pulls are encountered on the way up making this a fun and physical sustained climb at the grade.  You can place a #4 or two depending on how many #3’s you have with you.  Fixed rap rings on relatively modern bolts.  Two ropes to rap.  Double from #1 to #4.  At least four additional #3’s and an additional #2.  The #2’s are helpful near the end.  Next time, I would prefer eight #3’s so I could plug and go vs walk the cams.  Dow

Dr. Goodhead- 55’-5.10+/

Quantum of Solace- 2 Pitches-5.12-/

Jinx- 4 Pitches-5.12-/

Sundawg- 55’-5.11/

Octopussy- 100’-5.12-/

Bombay Martini- 40’-5.12-/

Buttress #3

Pussy Galore- 70’-5.10/

Unnamed- 160’-5.10+/